Slipping Clutch 1973 2000TC

[DaveHerns]

Would you get a new spigot bearing ready just in case you find it shot when you get the box out ?

 

[harveyp6]

Would you get a new spigot bearing ready just in case you find it shot when you get the box out ?

I've not had many problems with the manual spigot bearings, auto ones get chewed up when the flexplate fails. Remember that if you do replace it when doing the clutch that it should be soaked in oil, preferrably overnight, and once fitted the running clearance needs to be checked, and if necessary set to the correct amount.

 

[edward1]

I promised to let you know the outcome regarding my clutch problem.

Rather than aggravate an old back problem my friendly local garage were entrusted to replace the clutch. The linings were wafer thin and the rivets were bright and shiny! Flywheel was ok. It is a wonder how any drive was transmitted by the clutch.

Many thanks to all once again. edward1

 

[Willy Eckerslyke]

I had to replace the gearbox in my car from underneath and it wasn't exactly easy, especially when you don't have the practice that Harvey has.
But i did not had another option as i don't have an engine hoist. To proceed you need to remove the propshaft, mid exhaust section, radiator fan, starter motor, gear lever fron inside the car, gearbox mounting, engine front tie rod and tilt the engine/box backwards as far as it will go. In my case (LHD car) i had limited space because the rear carb hit the brake fluid reservoir. I guess you won't have an issue with this. Disconnect speedo cable and reverse lights switch and after you remove all the bellhousing bolts (note their position first, they are not all the same) rotate the gearbox to bring the hump for the starter motor in the bellhousing up. At this point it is (realtively) easy if the car is over a pit or on a lift and you have someone to help you manipulate the box out of the car. If the car is just on stands and you are alone, maybe with a trolley jack like i did, it is a bit of a struggle. Refitting is the reverse procedure, but more of a struggle to align the box properly in position without letting it hang from the input shaft. I don't have fond memories of this.

I finally got around to doing this. The old 'box was noisy so after putting up with it for a year or so I've just fitted one out of a car I scrapped last year. I used the method Demetris describes above, but with a couple more problems.
I couldn't undo the bolts on the rearmost propshaft flange so had to cut them off - but had to remove the support bracket first to get enough access.
But the real struggle came when trying to mate the "new" 'box to the engine. It would only get within a cm or so, then everything locked up and the engine refused to turn. I tried several times then decided to lower the gearbox again and check the clutch alignment. This shouldn't have changed as the clutch is fairly recent so I'm not replacing it. Anyway it was spot on, so I was about to lift the 'box back into position to try again when I spotted the problem:

Not wanting to lose the clutch slave cylinder retaining bolts, I'd screwed them into the bellhousing - too far - so they were hitting the flywheel, jamming everything solid, hence the chewed up state of the lower one. Once out of the way, it all went back together perfectly!
I wasted the best part of a day over this little error, and have a few new aches that I could have avoided.
So if any of you come across a similar problem, the cause might be just as simple.