Slow to start P6 V8

Rebuilding the cold start devices on my HIF6 made starts better, but what has made the car start instantaneously even after days is making sure the choke knob actually pulls both the start devices on fully. I found that when the cable was stiff it would only pull out about an inch and the car would not start, get the cable to pull out nearly twice that so the devices are fully operated and I hardly have to touch the key ( electric fuel pump )
 
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cobraboy said:
Rebuilding the cold start devices on my HIF6 made starts better, but what has made the car start instantaneously even after days is making sure the choke knob actually pulls both the start devices on fully. I found that when the cable was stiff it would only pull out about an inch and the car would not start, get the cable to pull out nearly twice that so the devices are fully operated and I hardly have to touch the key ( electric fuel pump )
Click to expand...

I checked my choke cable too.
It only pulled out a bit and when I opened the bonnet and pulled it out fully, cranked the car over and after 2 cranks it actually started...wow that's amazing, never done that before, usually 5 mins of "S-u-B" and eventual starting , very lumpy until its warmed up. In examining the route of the cable it is a very contorted path.
I am now thinking of finding a new pathway for the cable, has anyone done that?
There is a firewall grommet just under the bonnet pull cable that looks like a likely place to start from. A hole drilled in the dash on the r/h side of the steering wheel would make a good place to mount the choke pull knob.
Any ideas out there on this problem and relocating the choke pull?

Peter
Even thinking of relocating the ignition switch to the r/h side of the steering wheel too, it so awkward on the left and operating the choke at the same time is a pain, probably designed in a tea break at the factory ?
 
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ButterFingers said:
I checked my choke cable too.
It only pulled out a bit and when I opened the bonnet and pulled it out fully, cranked the car over and after 2 cranks it actually started...wow that's amazing, never done that before, usually 5 mins of "S-u-B" and eventual starting , very lumpy until its warmed up. In examining the route of the cable it is a very contorted path.
I am now thinking of finding a new pathway for the cable, has anyone done that?
There is a firewall grommet just under the bonnet pull cable that looks like a likely place to start from. A hole drilled in the dash on the r/h side of the steering wheel would make a good place to mount the choke pull knob.
Any ideas out there on this problem and relocating the choke pull?
Click to expand...

Hi Peter,

Does your Rover have air conditioning? Depending upon the installation, the choke and petrol reserve are sometimes relocated by the dealer at the same time. If your Rover does not have it installed, then the normal route is straight back, through the firewall then curving nicely upwards and over the air canister before finding home on either carburettor. My Rover and many other Australian Rovers have the cable attaching to the o/s carburettor. It might be advantageous to remove the cable (which is really just a wire) from the casing and apply some grease.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron,
my car does not have air at the moment, mikecoombs is gathering parts for me. As you mention , my cable follows the same route as yours. it has been replaced at some time by a new one and the end that enters the carburetor is very loose and not a tight fit in the Ferrel. When the cable is activated it rides up on the Ferrel and jambs there....:( I will try your suggestion of greasing the cable first.
Peter
 
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