Solid, but rusty metal.
- Thread starter phil
- Start date
Personally I like to remove as much of the surface rust as possible.
For my heater box I used Bilt Hamber's Deox Gel. You paint it on thick, leave it for a while and then attack it with a wire brush on a drill. Depending upon the heaviness of the surface rust it may take a few goes, but you end up with chemically clean and shiny metal. Great stuff.
For my heater box I used Bilt Hamber's Deox Gel. You paint it on thick, leave it for a while and then attack it with a wire brush on a drill. Depending upon the heaviness of the surface rust it may take a few goes, but you end up with chemically clean and shiny metal. Great stuff.
rover100rich
Member
machine mart do litre bottles of rust convertor i used it to good effect on a p4 chassis, its cheap too,cheers rich
webmaster
New Member
You want to remove as much of the rust as possible or it will be back fast.
Wire wheel on angle grinder is agressive but very effective. Flap wheel / course sanding disc on grinder also works well.
I've never found the rust convertors do much really, but you might as well apply it after cleaning up, can help to get a good key for paint and should help to catch the rust right at the bottom of the pits. Alternatively use the de-ox gel to get the last of the rust.
Cover with a good antirust paint, epoxy 121 / POR 15, definately NOT Hammerite !
Try and ensure the area stays dry after repair, check for leaks etc. You could also apply a layer of Waxoil / Dinitrol etc depending where it is, wouldn't want to use it under the carpet, but would be good in the wells under rear seats.
Wire wheel on angle grinder is agressive but very effective. Flap wheel / course sanding disc on grinder also works well.
I've never found the rust convertors do much really, but you might as well apply it after cleaning up, can help to get a good key for paint and should help to catch the rust right at the bottom of the pits. Alternatively use the de-ox gel to get the last of the rust.
Cover with a good antirust paint, epoxy 121 / POR 15, definately NOT Hammerite !
Try and ensure the area stays dry after repair, check for leaks etc. You could also apply a layer of Waxoil / Dinitrol etc depending where it is, wouldn't want to use it under the carpet, but would be good in the wells under rear seats.
interestingly i have hammerite on some bits of PAE and as of yesterday we have some epoxy mastic 121. The hammerite allows the water to stay on it in some places. On the epoxy mastic the water beads and tries to run off.... (just been out to check it as the rain has just stopped for the first time today 
)
Rich.
)Rich.
I use Hammerite smooth for quite a few not so critical things, like bumper brackets, etc. because it is a lot of bother mixing up the epoxy.
Bodywork and thinner bits of steel I have attacked voraciously by wire brushing until left with a shiny surface, treating with a rust converter from the epoxy 121 people, then a couple of coats of Epoxy 121. More critical bits e.g. de dion elbows, front of rear arches, etc, I have used an extra coat of zinc after the rust converter.
When assembling the body panels, I have also used a thick coat of Dinitrol to all susceptible areas.
Bad areas where the rust has actually started to pit the surface have been removed with an angle grinder, then replaced with new metal - the only reliable way to get rid of rust
Richard
Bodywork and thinner bits of steel I have attacked voraciously by wire brushing until left with a shiny surface, treating with a rust converter from the epoxy 121 people, then a couple of coats of Epoxy 121. More critical bits e.g. de dion elbows, front of rear arches, etc, I have used an extra coat of zinc after the rust converter.
When assembling the body panels, I have also used a thick coat of Dinitrol to all susceptible areas.
Bad areas where the rust has actually started to pit the surface have been removed with an angle grinder, then replaced with new metal - the only reliable way to get rid of rust
Richard