starter wont stop starting???

Hmmm. Well - this morning it works. :roll: so is this a warning shot of a failing 6RA maybe, and should i replace the switch and the relay to be sure? Any other thoughts - I'd rather spend a few quid than end up stranded!

It was colder last night - so maybe thats a factor. I did check the connections - touching the wires on the back of the ignition switch and cleaned up the relay so i could see the codes to make sure i had the correct one.

Cheers,

Rich.
 
What do you guys think of replacing the ignition with one of these?
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Electrical/Switches/Ignition_Switches,b.html

or maybe even one of these in the speaker grill??? - although i'd have to instigate some sort of security as this would negate the need for the key1
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Switch_Panel_3_SWPN3 or do you guys think that would look silly?

As far as iknow the original switches arent available?

Would rather spend and know it's going to work than be left with a car that wont stop starting!

Cheers,

Rich
 
Oh yes, I like that start button panel. 8) Maybe one of those would suit Bruiser. :twisted:

Not sure how much it would grace an un-modded car though.
 
I want to add the possibility that the starter gear is not returning, and holding out the solenoid contact. This would be a mechanical failure. Misalignment when assembling the box?
 
Hi Rich,

Well you could purchase the correct 6RA regardless and keep it in the glovebox or similar. It will always be there then should the time arise. As far as the ignition switch is concerned, there is not a lot inside them that can go wrong. A series of flat static copper contacts, two tiny cylinders and two tiny coil springs from memory. Lucas used a dielectic grease or similar across the contacts, so this may well be full of fluff or other particles that should not be present.

In any case, if the problem was caused by either the relay or the ignition switch, start with a process of elimination, replace the relay as it is much easier to do and if that cures it,...excellent, if not then look to removing, cleaning and refitting the switch.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron,

problem is i cant really diagnose the issue as it hasnt happened again today. So, i think i need to protect myself from a future occurence even if that involves swapping everything - or need the bits at the ready in the car that i can swap in an emergency situation...

I want to add the possibility that the starter gear is not returning, and holding out the solenoid contact. This would be a mechanical failure. Misalignment when assembling the box?
Hi, i dont think this is the case as the starter kept on going round, even when the key was removed. If the solenoid was stuck wouldnt the relay stop supplying the juice? Please correct me if i've misunderstood - i'm no expert!

Oh yes, I like that start button panel. 8) Maybe one of those would suit Bruiser. :twisted:

Not sure how much it would grace an un-modded car though.

strangely i think the black plastic in the centre console is sort of open for it because of it's style? thinking of stan's gauges for instance...

Thanks,

Rich
 
rockdemon said:
I want to add the possibility that the starter gear is not returning, and holding out the solenoid contact. This would be a mechanical failure. Misalignment when assembling the box?
Hi, i dont think this is the case as the starter kept on going round, even when the key was removed. If the solenoid was stuck wouldnt the relay stop supplying the juice? Please correct me if i've misunderstood - i'm no expert!

I think what he means is that the pinion gets physically jammed (in the ring-gear, or a weak return spring, et al) and cannot release. As the main solenoid contacts are on the opposite end of the pivot (when the command wire gets energised, it causes the plunger to come back and close the contacts AND it pushes the pinion forward to engage the ring-gear [like a see-saw on it's side, if you like!]), if it cannot release from the ring-gear, it would very likely keep the main solenoid contacts closed and the motor will continue to run.
 
gotcha. Given that this could happen due to misalignment of the box that means it's at least as likely as any other cause i guess...

Rich
 
darth sidious said:
rockdemon said:
I want to add the possibility that the starter gear is not returning, and holding out the solenoid contact. This would be a mechanical failure. Misalignment when assembling the box?

I think what he means is that the pinion gets physically jammed (in the ring-gear, or a weak return spring, et al) and cannot release. As the main solenoid contacts are on the opposite end of the pivot (when the command wire gets energised, it causes the plunger to come back and close the contacts AND it pushes the pinion forward to engage the ring-gear [like a see-saw on it's side, if you like!]), if it cannot release from the ring-gear, it would very likely keep the main solenoid contacts closed and the motor will continue to run.


That's what I mean. Temperature may play a part in the fact that it is now released.
 
rockdemon wrote,...
Given that this could happen due to misalignment of the box

Hi Rich,

My understanding is that the alignment between the starter motor and the ring gear on the drive plate are independent of the transmission. The drive plate is bolted to the crankshaft and the starter motor is bolted to the engine block, so removing and refitting the transmission along with the torque converter does not interfere with either. Can you see any evidence to suggest that they have removed the starter motor? Even if they did, it is only attached by two bolts and can only go back one way.

Ron.
 
rockdemon said:
What do you guys think of replacing the ignition with one of these?
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Electrical/Switches/Ignition_Switches,b.html

or maybe even one of these in the speaker grill??? - although i'd have to instigate some sort of security as this would negate the need for the key1
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Switch_Panel_3_SWPN3 or do you guys think that would look silly?

Hi Rich,
My father had an ignition switch fault a while back on his P6, and he fitted one of these
http://merlinmotorsport.co.uk/product_i ... ShoppingUK

I actually like it. It's a good neat security device as well, that can be hidden anywhere really 8)
 
rockdemon said:
Hey guys.

Got Sleipnir/PAE back yesterday. Second time i've gone to start it today:

I turned the key, it started but the starter carried on going. I removed the key.

Well, that is a coincidence!

I went to start my SD up, and the starter motor was making all sorts of grating noises. Upon inspection the plastic piece that supports the arm that comes from the drive assembly to solenoid had broke. I hasten to add that this was due to my fitting it the wrong way round whilst I had rebuilt the starter a couple of years back:oops:

Fortunately I had a spare 9M90 to use as a spares source so rebuilt the starter with a complete plastic lever support installed. It now works superbly 8) Incidentally, I was using a hi-torque starter while repairing my Lucas unit, and it was very difficult indeed to start the engine with. I can only imagine it's down to the slow nature of these HT starters that made it hard to start the engine?
 
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