still got the misfire
- Thread starter garethp6
- Start date
arthuy
Well-Known Member
I was editing that first post there.
Colourtune are so simple and useful I have no idea how I got on with out them. They are especially usefully with twin carbs and the v8. The pain is if you only have 1 colourtune. as you need to swap it over and remember what it was like. If you have 2 colourtune plugs (borrow from a mate!!) Each carb does two cylinders on each bank. Fit on in the front 2 or back 2 cylinders then tweak until they are even.
There is loads of things that need check when rebuilding an engine. I have been there and you have my sympathies.
Colin
Colourtune are so simple and useful I have no idea how I got on with out them. They are especially usefully with twin carbs and the v8. The pain is if you only have 1 colourtune. as you need to swap it over and remember what it was like. If you have 2 colourtune plugs (borrow from a mate!!) Each carb does two cylinders on each bank. Fit on in the front 2 or back 2 cylinders then tweak until they are even.
There is loads of things that need check when rebuilding an engine. I have been there and you have my sympathies.
Colin
garethp6
Active Member
yea all the plugs leads are on the right i double checked that about 5 millions times hahaha yea i used the same cam as the engine only did 35k from new and was still in great condition yea i used to same followers and there was no signs of wear at all on the engine well my first thing is to check it in the night when it worm and check for sparks then i am going to put the early type distributur as there is the late 1 in there and i dont know if that is causing some of the problems if not then it must be somthing with the timming. am i right when number 1 piston is at the top should the timing mark be at TDC if thats not must be somthing with the timming on the chain then must it
garethp6 wrote,..
Gareth,
Did you refit the followers back into exactly the same positions that each had before you removed them?
Number one piston will be at the top of its compression stroke and that should correlate with the TDC timing mark aligning with the pointer.
When my 3.5 was removed, the engine had some 203,000 miles on it, the camshaft and lifters were extremely worn and the timing chain and nylon toothed timing wheel were at the point of complete failure. Even so, the engine was smooth with no misfire.
See what you see after testing at night.
Ron.
Gareth,
Did you refit the followers back into exactly the same positions that each had before you removed them?
Number one piston will be at the top of its compression stroke and that should correlate with the TDC timing mark aligning with the pointer.
When my 3.5 was removed, the engine had some 203,000 miles on it, the camshaft and lifters were extremely worn and the timing chain and nylon toothed timing wheel were at the point of complete failure. Even so, the engine was smooth with no misfire.
See what you see after testing at night.
Ron.
arthuy
Well-Known Member
Dont forget that the distributor rotates 30* when it meshes with the camshaft gear when you refit it. i.e if you line up the rotor arm to the mark on the distributor body it will be 30* out when you drop it in.
you can rotate the distributor once in the car but if you may not have enough adjustment.
I timed the car to 6 Btdc static. You might just need to try a few positions to get the best for your engine. Try and not have the distributor too slack when running or else it will rise up and not engage the oil pump drive!!!
Did you say that the vacum advance was working ok?
Colin
you can rotate the distributor once in the car but if you may not have enough adjustment.
I timed the car to 6 Btdc static. You might just need to try a few positions to get the best for your engine. Try and not have the distributor too slack when running or else it will rise up and not engage the oil pump drive!!!
Did you say that the vacum advance was working ok?
Colin
garethp6
Active Member
yea well i will check all those things out somthing thing is telling me that when 1 piston was at the top it was not at TDC well was a bit out i have got the later pully on mine the one with the thing for the power sterring would that be the course of that or no as the orginal was was broke so i am woundering if the timing mark is in a different place
Gareth,
Using a different damper won't make any difference. It appears that Rover was quite "slack" when it came to ensuring accuracy with the timing marks, so it is no surprise to find inaccuracy here. Without using a piston stop or removing the rocker cover so as to look at the valve postion, you can always "feel" the timing. With the engine idling slowly advance the timing, noting the engine speed and the exhaust note. The engine speed will slowly rise as you advance. If you go too far, then the idle will become rough, then you will need to retard it somewhat. There will be a window where the engine idle and exhaust note are the smoothest.
With the distributor bolt firm but not too tight that you cannot turn it, go for a test run. Listen for pinking when accelerating and pulling up your favourite hill. Retard the timing if required and test again. With a 10.5 : 1, pinking is always a problem, certainly with today's fuel, so you will need to make a compromise between engine idle smoothness and how much pinking you are prepared to accept.
Ron.
Using a different damper won't make any difference. It appears that Rover was quite "slack" when it came to ensuring accuracy with the timing marks, so it is no surprise to find inaccuracy here. Without using a piston stop or removing the rocker cover so as to look at the valve postion, you can always "feel" the timing. With the engine idling slowly advance the timing, noting the engine speed and the exhaust note. The engine speed will slowly rise as you advance. If you go too far, then the idle will become rough, then you will need to retard it somewhat. There will be a window where the engine idle and exhaust note are the smoothest.
With the distributor bolt firm but not too tight that you cannot turn it, go for a test run. Listen for pinking when accelerating and pulling up your favourite hill. Retard the timing if required and test again. With a 10.5 : 1, pinking is always a problem, certainly with today's fuel, so you will need to make a compromise between engine idle smoothness and how much pinking you are prepared to accept.
Ron.
If the engine is idling beautifully, driving and sounding wonderful then leave it as it is. The fact that you can place #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke and the TDC timing mark on your damper does not align with the pointer is unfortunately a common Rover problem, not only with the P6B but with all Rover V8 engines. Somes engines may well be "spot on", but many will not be.
The discrepancy is either in the position of the marks stamped on the damper or the location of the pointer on the timing cover. In either case, once you know exactly where TDC is based on #1 piston location, either adjust the pointer so it reads correctly, or modify the marks on the damper. Another option is just to make a note of the difference and keep that figure at hand when you need to change the timing.
Ron.
The discrepancy is either in the position of the marks stamped on the damper or the location of the pointer on the timing cover. In either case, once you know exactly where TDC is based on #1 piston location, either adjust the pointer so it reads correctly, or modify the marks on the damper. Another option is just to make a note of the difference and keep that figure at hand when you need to change the timing.
Ron.