Sump bolts

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Antipodes

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I note that 2 of the bolts are longer than the others. I did not take a note if they were for the front or rear of the sump. My best guess is that they are for the rear. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
The 602199 (11 off) is listed as 5/16 UNC x 11/16. The 2 at the rear are just listed as 'special', no length given. Longer makes sense as they have to go through the brace plate. Since these all have a tendency to loosen by them selves I suggest you use bolts with integral washers with serrations on them, or at least some sort of washer - internal stars? IIRC they take < 10 ft/lb to prevent squeezing the gasket out, and most 1/2 drive torque wrenches will not be accurate down at this level - I use a 1/4 drive wrench that peaks at 25 ft/lb.
 
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jp928 said:
The 602199 (11 off) is listed as 5/16 UNC x 11/16. The 2 at the rear are just listed as 'special', no length given. Longer makes sense as they have to go through the brace plate. Since these all have a tendency to loosen by them selves I suggest you use bolts with integral washers with serrations on them, or at least some sort of washer - internal stars? IIRC they take < 10 ft/lb to prevent squeezing the gasket out, and most 1/2 drive torque wrenches will not be accurate down at this level - I use a 1/4 drive wrench that peaks at 25 ft/lb.
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Thank you jo928, appreciate the prompt and detailed answer. Not sure the purpose of the brace plate!
 
The 2 bolts through the brace plate go into the rear iron main bearing cap, but nobody gives a torque figure for any of the bolts...until I see it in the 3.9/4.2 disco book - 17 ft/lb. This cap is the most likely source of leaks...
 
Thanks again to jp928. My next bit of drama. While I was refitting the sump I noticed the cover plate at the front of the auto box had a whole lot of graunch marks. On removing the plate a 3/8 UNF bolt fell out, hence the reason for the damage to the plate. It is one of the four bolts connecting the starter ring flexi plate to the torque converter. The bolt looked like it had a hard time. My question is what is the torque figure for these bolts and do I need to use loktite.
 
Thanks jp928. It is like having my personal mechanic in the wardrobe! I was going to suggest that you go to bed but then realised that you are in Australia.
 
Just a couple of hours behind you. A touch of thread lock wouldnt hurt. I guess you dont have a workshop manual ?
 
The manual shows plain washers, maybe that is why the bolt came loose? I only hope the thread in the torque converter is not damaged. Too cold to check today!
 
The drama continues! I poked around with a magnet this morning, and to my dismay another 2 3/8 UNF bolts and 3 thick washers came out. Consequently there is only one bolt holding the flexi plate onto the torque converter. Also found part of a 5/16 UNF bolt which I think is one of the fixing bolts for the starter ring gear. Made the decision to remove engine and gearbox, get the auto box checked over etc. Bit of a pest but the car which has only done 54,000 kms deserves a full check over.
 
parts book shows 10 x 5/16 UNF bolts for the ring gear, but only 4 into the torque converter.
 
Now that I have decided to remove the engine and gearbox I thought it would be good idea to replace the rear main bearing seal. How would I know if it is a rope or lip seal. The chassis number is 84600486D.
 
Mine is a 74, engine no ending in D, and its a lip seal. I replaced my rear seal when I changed the gearbox, using a home made guide (made from a soft drink bottle) to get the seal lip over the edge of the crank flange. Not 100% dry, but acceptable slow leak rate - a lot easier than dropping the sump and loosening the rear main cap.
Engine no in 840 sequence is an early 10.5:1 CR. Mine is a 481....D, 9.25:1 CR. Chassis is 482...D
Suggest you use this type of bolt, readily available.
https://www.accu.co.uk/896-serrated-flanged-hexagon-bolts?page=1
Best would be Nord-Lock.....watch the video here.
https://www.accu.co.uk/p/345-6-reasons-why-bolts-become-loose-5-prevention-methods
 
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Hi John, yes that is one disadvantage of living down under. Is it only the seal carrier that needs modifying to take a lip seal? Hopefully I can find someone this side of the world that could carry out the work.
 
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