Sump/ gearbox drain plug
- Thread starter thob
- Start date
Hello Thomas,
What do you mean by "a semi automatic" with reference to the sump plug?
It is my understanding that sump plugs for all Rover V8 engines of any capacity used in Rover cars and Rover four wheel drives all run the same thread, so any can be used.
Ron.
What do you mean by "a semi automatic" with reference to the sump plug?
It is my understanding that sump plugs for all Rover V8 engines of any capacity used in Rover cars and Rover four wheel drives all run the same thread, so any can be used.
Ron.
thob
Member
Hi Ron,
with semi-automatic I refer to the process of oil draining. There is a plug that opens automatically if you fit a pipe . See http://www.roelex.de/ventile/en/start.php
I thought it comes in handy for a quick change
Thomas
PS: I can't get any info on dimensions, asked a few people already. Seems I need to measure it during oil change and wait for the next occasion to replace it.
with semi-automatic I refer to the process of oil draining. There is a plug that opens automatically if you fit a pipe . See http://www.roelex.de/ventile/en/start.php
I thought it comes in handy for a quick change
Thomas
PS: I can't get any info on dimensions, asked a few people already. Seems I need to measure it during oil change and wait for the next occasion to replace it.
westOz74P6B
Member
looks like a bit of an oddball size, just measured my (brass) sump plug and get a nominal OD of 0.8165" (thou) and 20.75mm is the metric conversion on the digital vernier which is closest to 13/16" (0.8125") of which there is no such sized thread but surfing the web I came across similar ask on rangerovers.net website from someone wanting to fit similar type valves;
I want to fit my 2 Classics with Fumoto oil drain valves, but I have been unable to find out definitively the size and thread of the sump plug - even tried calling Land Rover in the UK without success!
Anyone know the sump plug specs?Thanks RED[/b]
REPLIES AS FOLLOWS;
And the answer is - well I decided to buy a spare sump plug and give it to one of the engineers in our machine shop at work; the response is it is not a standard anything! 20.5mm or ~13/16 and 14TPI BSW thread, in other words, it is an orphan and none of the Fumoto oil drain plugs will fit. However, the engineer did have a good suggestion, drill out the standard sump plug and tap it so that one of the smaller size Fumoto valves can be screwed into the old plug.
ANOTHER REPLY;
Hi
I fitted drainvalves from http://shop.difflock.com/range-rover-dr ... -p-42.html to my Classic and P38. They are very well made, and certainly with the Classic save a lot of mess.
Regards
Mik
RESPONSE;
Thanks Mik; I have ordered the plugs from the link you provided; will save me a lot of work in drilling and tapping sump plugs!
Hope this helps Thomas, you might have to email your intended supplier (Roelex) and confirm they do one for the Rover V8 or you may have to drill and tap a roelex one to suit if you want to stick with your selected brand and probably drill and tap to suit 7/8" UNF or 22mm as there seems to be enough metal on the sump thread to do this but would mean removing sump to do this which is probably not the extra work you want to do!
Regards,
I want to fit my 2 Classics with Fumoto oil drain valves, but I have been unable to find out definitively the size and thread of the sump plug - even tried calling Land Rover in the UK without success!
Anyone know the sump plug specs?Thanks RED[/b]
REPLIES AS FOLLOWS;
And the answer is - well I decided to buy a spare sump plug and give it to one of the engineers in our machine shop at work; the response is it is not a standard anything! 20.5mm or ~13/16 and 14TPI BSW thread, in other words, it is an orphan and none of the Fumoto oil drain plugs will fit. However, the engineer did have a good suggestion, drill out the standard sump plug and tap it so that one of the smaller size Fumoto valves can be screwed into the old plug.
ANOTHER REPLY;
Hi
I fitted drainvalves from http://shop.difflock.com/range-rover-dr ... -p-42.html to my Classic and P38. They are very well made, and certainly with the Classic save a lot of mess.
Regards
Mik
RESPONSE;
Thanks Mik; I have ordered the plugs from the link you provided; will save me a lot of work in drilling and tapping sump plugs!
Hope this helps Thomas, you might have to email your intended supplier (Roelex) and confirm they do one for the Rover V8 or you may have to drill and tap a roelex one to suit if you want to stick with your selected brand and probably drill and tap to suit 7/8" UNF or 22mm as there seems to be enough metal on the sump thread to do this but would mean removing sump to do this which is probably not the extra work you want to do!
Regards,
vaultsman
Well-Known Member
Until a workshop clearout a few days ago, I had my old sump plug lying around that had been butchered a bit over the years..so I don't have one to measure now.
But anyway, from the measurements given, I'd be willing to bet that the thread is 1/2"-14 BSP. (British Standard Pipe)
BSP Thread Data
Cheers,
But anyway, from the measurements given, I'd be willing to bet that the thread is 1/2"-14 BSP. (British Standard Pipe)
BSP Thread Data
Cheers,
westOz74P6B
Member
Stan, I did'nt check BSP sizes you may be right, I'll borrow a 1/2" BSP tap tomorrow (Thursday and try that night) and try it in my sump which I have off at the moment to conform for us all.
by the way, while surfing the www I also came across a sump plug with a 10mm hex socket in it, which enabled a lower profile than standard and also had a magnet in it to catch metalic particles ala BMC mini/1100 etc... https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shengl ... 38dbf3b811
Oh and as a p.s; on my brass sump plug I drilled a small hole across the flats so I can fit some tie wire and will tie it off somewhere (don't know where yet) as a 'just in case' precaution.
Regards,
by the way, while surfing the www I also came across a sump plug with a 10mm hex socket in it, which enabled a lower profile than standard and also had a magnet in it to catch metalic particles ala BMC mini/1100 etc... https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shengl ... 38dbf3b811
Oh and as a p.s; on my brass sump plug I drilled a small hole across the flats so I can fit some tie wire and will tie it off somewhere (don't know where yet) as a 'just in case' precaution.
Regards,
westOz74P6B
Member
You were on the money Stan. the 1/2" BSP tap I borrowed fits nice and neat, even taking a slight cut to clean it up a little bit. It was a bit deceiving measuring the OD of the thread on the brass (maybe worn a little) plug as it is a bit of a loose fit, Also Thomas I noticed the markings on the tap and it reads as; G 1/2-14, G probably for Gas (as the BSP threads are ultimately used for Gas and water pipe applications), 1/2 actually refers to the bore size of the Gas/water pipe used, and of course 14 being the threads per inch.
The; G = R 1/2" on the Rolex data sheet, the R 1/2" refers to; 1/2" BSPT (tapered thread) whereas the 1/2" thread in the engine sump is a BSPP (parallel thread) i.e. it's not uncommon to have a tapered external thread connect to a parallel internal thread, so possibly the Rolex fitting has a tapered external thread so seal against the parallel thread on the engine sump in conjunction with a sealing washer.
So the; 85 11/2 G = R 1/2" M 26 x 1.5 Steel € 13.70 on the Rolex data sheet I would say is the one you require for the Rover V8 engine sump plug, sorry I can't help with the gearbox plug as my P6 is not manual.
And actually something just twigged as I noticed the thread in the sump has two holes drilled through the thread so when the plug is removed residual oil can trickle from these holes as the boss the thread is in protrudes into the sump about 10mm and if those holes were not there you would not be able to drain completely all of the sump oil, so I'm wondering if the Rolex fitting once in place will block these holes up and not allow complete drainimg of the sump allowing a sludge to build up? you see what I'm getting at? I can't see how the fitting would compensate for this.
Regards,
The; G = R 1/2" on the Rolex data sheet, the R 1/2" refers to; 1/2" BSPT (tapered thread) whereas the 1/2" thread in the engine sump is a BSPP (parallel thread) i.e. it's not uncommon to have a tapered external thread connect to a parallel internal thread, so possibly the Rolex fitting has a tapered external thread so seal against the parallel thread on the engine sump in conjunction with a sealing washer.
So the; 85 11/2 G = R 1/2" M 26 x 1.5 Steel € 13.70 on the Rolex data sheet I would say is the one you require for the Rover V8 engine sump plug, sorry I can't help with the gearbox plug as my P6 is not manual.
And actually something just twigged as I noticed the thread in the sump has two holes drilled through the thread so when the plug is removed residual oil can trickle from these holes as the boss the thread is in protrudes into the sump about 10mm and if those holes were not there you would not be able to drain completely all of the sump oil, so I'm wondering if the Rolex fitting once in place will block these holes up and not allow complete drainimg of the sump allowing a sludge to build up? you see what I'm getting at? I can't see how the fitting would compensate for this.
Regards,
You may as well get one of those devices that sucks the old oil up through the dipstick hole
Personally I like to take the plug out and let all the muck out together with any nasties like bits of engine .
Just done this on my ex-company car which I now own and wonder if it had ever been done properly before as you can't get to the sump plug without removing the undertray - 4 bolts and 4 screws
I'm thinking of cutting an access hole for this purpose but expect there's a good reason why not to
Personally I like to take the plug out and let all the muck out together with any nasties like bits of engine .
Just done this on my ex-company car which I now own and wonder if it had ever been done properly before as you can't get to the sump plug without removing the undertray - 4 bolts and 4 screws
I'm thinking of cutting an access hole for this purpose but expect there's a good reason why not to
westOz74P6B
Member
I would imagine it was originally a copper washer for the sump plug, mine was actually sealed with a silicone sealant (and no washer) which ironically had sealed up the two holes in the threaded boss and I only realised when I was poking around trying to clean the thread up recently (I hadn't noticed when I took the sump off initially) which was leading me to think about relocating the boss on the outside of the sump so I can drain the sump fully not realising these two holes were there which enabled a full drain (very clever of the rover boffins) but anyway I was thinking of using a fibre washer on mine (as I had one that fits, but not a copper one) with maybe a smear of a gasket sealant (non silicone) on the fibre washer as the sealing surface on my sump is not the best. also now I know that the thread is 1/2" BSP I might even try a proper BSP plug as it would fit better than the brass (bit loose in the thread) one fitted now, mind you that hex allen key one with the magnet I found on the web (in my earlier reply) seems tempting to use,
Regards,
Regards,
arthuy
Well-Known Member
If your thinking of going down that semi auto route why not take the sumps off an get new thread blocks braised on.
One problem I find with the V8 is that the sump plug sits flush on the outside but proud of the bottom on the inside so trapping muck which you would need to remove the sump to really clear out. I would remove this and and an smooth bottom
Colin
One problem I find with the V8 is that the sump plug sits flush on the outside but proud of the bottom on the inside so trapping muck which you would need to remove the sump to really clear out. I would remove this and and an smooth bottom
Colin
westOz74P6B
Member
picture of the engine sump threaded boss which protdudes into the sump and showing the two small holes drilled through the thread to allow the remainder of oil to drain away once the plug is removed, as per factory design,
I'm thinking if a "no mess" drain valve is fitted then these two smaller holes would always be blocked preventing a complete oil drain.
As Colin points out it would be better to braze a new threaded boss so as to have a smooth inside to make effective use of these "no mess" drain valves.
following pic is with standard sump plug fitted;
Regards,
I'm thinking if a "no mess" drain valve is fitted then these two smaller holes would always be blocked preventing a complete oil drain.
As Colin points out it would be better to braze a new threaded boss so as to have a smooth inside to make effective use of these "no mess" drain valves.
following pic is with standard sump plug fitted;
Regards,
westOz74P6B
Member
I wonder if they had to consult Spen King on this one?!!
Also if you notice how the sump sits when on the car, the sump plug is situated on a rising slope toward the back which takes it away from any chance of getting a hit if it was otherwise situated at the lowest point of the pan in which case one bad knock and it could shear right off. Even where it is situated now would neccessitate the jacking up of the front of the car (or using ramps) to get a good drain from the plug hole. If you followed Colins earlier idea through and brazed on a new threaded boss (to have a smooth inside) at the same rear position but on the right hand side, the auto drain valve would still be protected from any glancing blows, but you would still need to raise the front of the car (as above) to effect a total drain of oil and sediment. It would probably be ok to site an auto valve on the lowest part of the sump on a Landy or Rangie as they would probably have the ground clearance and more than likely be protected by a sump gaurd etc,
So although they are a good idea for a clean oil change (if fitted to the standard sump thread) you would still have to drop the sump at some stage to clean out the build up of sludge, and even when I removed my sump I was suprised at the greyish sludge at the bottom of my sump not that it was a lot but just what the small holes could not flush/drain out...
And any way it would take the fun out of an oil change, not having dirty hot oil run down your arm! :? dropping the plug in the bucket of hot dirty oil!! :x accidently kicking the bucket spilling hot dirty oil everywhere!!! and last but not least pouring hot dirty oil into an old oil container and not watch it when its getting full and it overflows down the side Etc Etc!!!!
Also if you notice how the sump sits when on the car, the sump plug is situated on a rising slope toward the back which takes it away from any chance of getting a hit if it was otherwise situated at the lowest point of the pan in which case one bad knock and it could shear right off. Even where it is situated now would neccessitate the jacking up of the front of the car (or using ramps) to get a good drain from the plug hole. If you followed Colins earlier idea through and brazed on a new threaded boss (to have a smooth inside) at the same rear position but on the right hand side, the auto drain valve would still be protected from any glancing blows, but you would still need to raise the front of the car (as above) to effect a total drain of oil and sediment. It would probably be ok to site an auto valve on the lowest part of the sump on a Landy or Rangie as they would probably have the ground clearance and more than likely be protected by a sump gaurd etc,
So although they are a good idea for a clean oil change (if fitted to the standard sump thread) you would still have to drop the sump at some stage to clean out the build up of sludge, and even when I removed my sump I was suprised at the greyish sludge at the bottom of my sump not that it was a lot but just what the small holes could not flush/drain out...
And any way it would take the fun out of an oil change, not having dirty hot oil run down your arm! :? dropping the plug in the bucket of hot dirty oil!! :x accidently kicking the bucket spilling hot dirty oil everywhere!!!
and last but not least pouring hot dirty oil into an old oil container and not watch it when its getting full and it overflows down the side Etc Etc!!!! 
corazon
Well-Known Member
Today i decided to do a QUICK :roll: oil change.
That damn sump plug!
It was pretty rounded off before i started all the bolt removing tricks i know, now its truly ruined.
Anyone have any ideas, short of drilling it out?
IF i ever get it out, are rover sump plugs are all standardised? ie a range rover one would fit?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RANGE-ROVER-109-V ... 2192wt_941
I can pick one up locally if so
That damn sump plug!
It was pretty rounded off before i started all the bolt removing tricks i know, now its truly ruined.
Anyone have any ideas, short of drilling it out?
IF i ever get it out, are rover sump plugs are all standardised? ie a range rover one would fit?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RANGE-ROVER-109-V ... 2192wt_941
I can pick one up locally if so