Hello there I am a new p6 v8 auto owner trying to get to grips with everything, I have some questions I hope someone can help with. My fuel guage underreads so it reads empty when the tank still has at least a 1/4 fuel in, How many miles should I expect to get from a fully brimed tank. I rearlise this varies car to car but an estimate of miles would help. My oil pressure goes to the max when under load but settles at 35/40 when hot and idle is this about right. lastly how difficult is it to remove outer window rubbers and the outer 1/4 trims. I foolishly though the 1/4 covers would come off once the 3 screws were removed but there is more to it than that. Thank you in advance for any help. Stephen.
tank range/ oil pressure
- Thread starter Stephen
- Start date
Hi Stephen,
When making an estimate on an unknown, always choose the worst case scenario. In the case of mileage achievable from a full tank, there are many variables, but if you opt for mainly urban useage, then around 270 should keep you out of trouble.
The oil pressure is on the high side, so it is quite possible that is down to the sender being an aftermarket replacement, which are, from my experience, very unreliable.
The window rubbers along the top of the door are accessible once you remove the door trim. They are retained by a series of screws, so access is required from the inside. The quarter window rubbers, to remove you'll need to remove the frame completely from the door.
Ron.
When making an estimate on an unknown, always choose the worst case scenario. In the case of mileage achievable from a full tank, there are many variables, but if you opt for mainly urban useage, then around 270 should keep you out of trouble.
The oil pressure is on the high side, so it is quite possible that is down to the sender being an aftermarket replacement, which are, from my experience, very unreliable.
The window rubbers along the top of the door are accessible once you remove the door trim. They are retained by a series of screws, so access is required from the inside. The quarter window rubbers, to remove you'll need to remove the frame completely from the door.
Ron.
Does your fuel reserve tap work properly? Best thing is to work it out for yourself. Set the trip meter, fill the tank and drive 'til it starts to splutter and pull the reserve. It all comes down to how you drive it, where you drive it and what state of tune the motor is in. Ron's estimate suggests 18mpg but the last time I used my V8 it was more like 14 with the driving I was doing and I'm lucky to get 200 miles from a tank on my TC at the moment but some people are getting mid 20s on the V8s and low 30s from 4 cyls so... :?
The rear quarter panels have another 2 screws on the inside at the back. To remove them you need to lift out the rear seat base, (just lift under the front and pull out) then there are 2 screws at the bottom of the backrest. Remove those and lift it up about an inch or so then remove. The inner pillar trim should have 2 screws holding it at the lower corners, remove these and slide the trim forwards and down slightly. (I find a wide bladed tool inserted under the leading edge often helps, also it can stick to the headlining edge so run your fingers along the join to separate them) Then you will see the 2 screws usually covered in mastic. Remove those and the 3 down the front edge and pull the panel forward and down slightly. It's often gummed on at the back.
The door to glass seals are pretty simple. Remove the plastic capping inside the door- slide out the wood (don't lose the spring washers that will fly out at you) remove the lock knob and screws and lift off. Wind the window down as far as it will go and you should be able to see a row of screws going through the door frame into the door shell (about 5 or 6 I think). Remove all of those taking care not to drop them into the door. You will also note some wide screws at the ends of the frame, just where it goes into the shell, 2 at each end. These should be covered by grey plastic caps but are often missing. Loosen these a little. This will allow the frame to be wiggled a bit and a blade or scraper can be used to separate the 2 and prise the rubber out. Then a new one can be slipped into the gap.
The rear quarter panels have another 2 screws on the inside at the back. To remove them you need to lift out the rear seat base, (just lift under the front and pull out) then there are 2 screws at the bottom of the backrest. Remove those and lift it up about an inch or so then remove. The inner pillar trim should have 2 screws holding it at the lower corners, remove these and slide the trim forwards and down slightly. (I find a wide bladed tool inserted under the leading edge often helps, also it can stick to the headlining edge so run your fingers along the join to separate them) Then you will see the 2 screws usually covered in mastic. Remove those and the 3 down the front edge and pull the panel forward and down slightly. It's often gummed on at the back.
The door to glass seals are pretty simple. Remove the plastic capping inside the door- slide out the wood (don't lose the spring washers that will fly out at you) remove the lock knob and screws and lift off. Wind the window down as far as it will go and you should be able to see a row of screws going through the door frame into the door shell (about 5 or 6 I think). Remove all of those taking care not to drop them into the door. You will also note some wide screws at the ends of the frame, just where it goes into the shell, 2 at each end. These should be covered by grey plastic caps but are often missing. Loosen these a little. This will allow the frame to be wiggled a bit and a blade or scraper can be used to separate the 2 and prise the rubber out. Then a new one can be slipped into the gap.
