temperture cooling

J

Joop

Member
Hello

My watertemperture has never been at the gauge in the green area (Always in the wight). Except wenn the car is iddling. Then it raise to the green area. Then is also the Heather temp allright.Wenn I am driving it is too cold. I already changed the thermostat but this solved nothing. What could this be?
 
Hi joop
If your happy that you have fitted correct 82.c thermostat most common cause is the water temp transmitter.
If you pull wire off this sensor/switch ignition on and earth wire to any bolt on engne,temp gauge should rise to end of red section of gauge.If gauge shows in red this normaly means wiring/gauge ok,replace temp transmitter if this is the case.If gauge does not rise to red section poss gauge/wiring fault. A cold heater if all pipes are blistering hot could be a blocked heater matrix/or internal flap fault in heater unit.Do all heater settings work? E/G select hot/cold/demist/floor settings.If all working i would be looking into changing heater matrix/never had any luck with flushing these,i normally get them
taken apart and rodded out by radiator repairers,
hope this helps
clive
 
Thank you both very much. I will try what you both said and look what happens. Indeed i put a 82 degree thermostat.
I let you known the result.

Thanks!!
 
The thermostat being wrong wouldn't make it run that cool would it? Did your thermostat have the jiggle pin? Is the carb tower producing a steady stream of water into the rop of the radiator? Is the heater warm... Do you have an infra red thermometer? You can get one for about £15 but You can see what temp the engine actually is that way and know whether it's a sender or actual temperature issue.
 
rockdemon wrote,...
The thermostat being wrong wouldn't make it run that cool would it?
Click to expand...

No. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temperature, so if it fails to reach that temperature, then either the thermostat is stuck open, hence over cooling the engine, or the sender is at fault.

Ron.
 
Hello

Today i checked the thermostat. It was one of 88 Celsius what was in the car. So this was the right one. The heatermatrix was open as i put warm water in it, every spot became warm.
This summer i already overhaul the heatherunit. I will buy next week a laser- thermo to check temp. I do not understand the function of the second heather transmitter in the car.
I have a temperture sender (which i already put a new one in) Why are there two?

Thank you everbody for your support!
 
The sender screwed into the front of the manifold is for the temperature guage, and there are different types of sender that will fit but give inaccurate readings, the sender on the top of the manifold, held by 3 small bolts, is the temperature switch for the choke light.
 
To day i put behind the radiator 2 pieces of cardboard. Now the temperatur of the motor is normal.
So maybe this is a uprated radiator i have?
 
Hi Joop,

You can ascertain whether or not your radiator has been upgraded by looking at the number of tubes in a horizontal plane. If there are two, then it is a normal factory sized radiator, whilst if there are three, then it has been upgraded.

Upgraded radiators are really only necessary in hot countries.

If your thermostat is stuck open in combination with temperatures less than say 20 degrees C, that will certainly prevent the coolant temp from reaching the stated operating temp.

Ron.
 
Upgraded radiators are really only necessary in hot countries.
Click to expand...

Must be VERY hot countries. I drove my P6 in 38 degree heat with a standard radiator with an electric fan. The rad is perfectly fine, the issue is the confined engine bay. Same reason some have fuel vapourization problems.
 
The radiator should only cool what fluid goes through it though surely. This implies that the thermostat is opening early? Worth getting another and giving it a shot?
 
PeterZRH wrote,...
Must be VERY hot countries. I drove my P6 in 38 degree heat with a standard radiator with an electric fan. The rad is perfectly fine, the issue is the confined engine bay. Same reason some have fuel vapourization problems.
Click to expand...

Hi Peter,

The key is utilising the electic fan. If you're driving in Sydney during Summer, then a 3 core is a must with the engine driven fan, even with the efficient 13 bladed item and viscous coupling for the Australian market cars.

Once the car is moving at a reasonable speed, then the fan becomes less of a priority, hence the 2500rpm limit with the coupling.

An electric fan of the appropriate size would make a significant difference when the car is idling in traffic, and that is where it has the advantage over the engine driven fan.

Ron.
 
Today i fitted a new thermostat. (Gates Th2888G1 88 degree)
Result still the same. The motor is not getting hot without card board behind the radiator...........
 
I have one hose up and one hose down at the radiator.And one little hose comes from the carburattor to the radiator top.
Is this little hose for bleeding the air out of the system?
 
Hi Joop,

If the gauge is displaying the correct temperature, then it sounds like over cooling.

What is the ambient temperature like? How far and at what speed are you driving typically?

Joop wrote,...
I have one hose up and one hose down at the radiator.And one little hose comes from the carburattor to the radiator top.
Is this little hose for bleeding the air out of the system?
Click to expand...

It will allow air to exit the tower, but primarily it is so coolant will heat the tower thus assisting in fuel atomisation .

Air bleeds out of the system unassisted in most cases. Fill the system with the engine idling, replace the cap, drive. Next day remove the cap, start the engine, top up as necessary, replace cap and that is that.
You should never drive around with the radiator cap off or bring the engine up to temperature with the cap off, as doing so is counter productive.

Ron.
 
Hello Ron

Thanks for your information. Tomorrow i will try the way of filling the radiator. I will fill it up, close the cap and drive.
Before i put in the new thermostat i put an old thermostat from the guy from which i bought the car. This thermostat was close and the temperatur raise to 100 degrees. The temperatur gauge was ok so i could stop just at time.. :)
 
To check the thermostat for correct opening, push the valve open against the spring and put a thread of cotton or nylon in the valve.
Allow it to close on the string then hang it in your kettle or a pot of water on the cooker with an accurate thermometer in the water to
monitor the temperature. Turn the heat on and watch at what point the thermostat opens and drops off the thread, record the temperature
off the thermometer, and that should be at the same temp as the spec for the thermostat +- a degree or 2.

Another thing is, the body of the thermostat sometimes has a small hole in it to assist in circulating the water on start-up. It has an additional
effect in that it allows any trapped air to be bled out too. If your thermostat doesn't have the hole, you can easily drill one like the picture in this link...
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=899014&postcount=8
Just make sure the hole is drilled so it's at the TOP when the thermostat is fitted to allow all the air to move through.

Just an aside, I came across this interesting gadget for fitting the thermostat inline.....
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Co...hermostat-Housing-1-25-Hose-to-1-25-Hose.aspx
 
unstable load wrote,...
Another thing is, the body of the thermostat sometimes has a small hole in it to assist in circulating the water on start-up. It has an additional
effect in that it allows any trapped air to be bled out too. If your thermostat doesn't have the hole, you can easily drill one like the picture in this link...
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost ... ostcount=8
Just make sure the hole is drilled so it's at the TOP when the thermostat is fitted to allow all the air to move through.
Click to expand...

Hi John,

From my experience, an easy way to spot a thermostat that does not provide a suitable air bleed mechanism is, the gauge will show a rise well past the thermostat opening temperature, followed by a drop down to that temperature.

Another tell tale is the behaviour of the top radiator hose. It will experience suction within, being sucked flat or very near once the thermostat closes and the engine cools after a run.

Some thermostats feature a calibrated bleed notch, and these are not always easy to spot without close inspection. A hole then drilled into the thermostat flange will thus compromise the effective operation of the thermostat.

Ron.
 
The hose from the tower between the carburrettors may possibly assist in preventing carburrettor icing in really cold climates. But it's principle function is to COOL the carbs. Without a decent flow from this hose you are almost certain to suffer from fuel vaporisation....

Chris
 
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