time to sort out the rear d-post on mth

garethp6

garethp6

Active Member
about 6 years ago the driver rear d-post and rusted at the bottom so got it welded up and then undersealed and it looks bloody awfull lol now i have got rid of the underseal and started to fill it with body filler so i can paint it up so it should look better here is wot it looks like at this moment
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i am not the best at body work when it come to filler once it dryed i then start to sand it down and see if it needs any more then paint in side the doors blue so it will look much better
 
Hi Gareth

You'll need plenty of elbow grease to sand that lot back. Did you consider grinding back the welds with a flapper wheel on an angle grinder? The advantages of that are that it will give you an idea of how good the welding actually is but it will also save a bit on the filler as you could probably get away with a light skim.

Dave
 
no i didnt never mind i will just put some hard elbow grease in to it and see how it come out like it got to look better then it did well not had the chance to finish it off yet with the bloody rain lol but hopefully will get the chance this week
 
Sorry to be a pain and tell you this too late, but I find a really good trick with filler is to work it with a surform and / or stanley knife blade just as it begins to cure. I always do the rough shaping before it fully hardens.

Cheers

James
 
Just to avoid confusion here a flap wheel is really only for cleaning things, whereas a flap disc will remove stock, i.e. remove the actual metal from the weld to smooth it down.

I am only saying this as I bought a flap wheel (a while ago now :oops: ) as I was told I could dress welds with it.

Flap Wheel


Flap Disc


Gareth, is your tyre valve a bit 'under pressure' as it seems to be laid on its side.

Richard
 

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Hi, another trick to work filler is to brush it with a paint brush dipped in thinners
and then leave to go off. With practice it requires minimal rubbing down.

Colin
 
I usually grind welds down with 24 grade sanding discs on the grinder (i guess that's similar to using the flap disc), sometimes use an actual grinding disc for precision.

Shaping filler in an area like that will always be tricky, I tend to use several thin layers, using the DA sander to flatten, I recently bought a small palm "mouse" sander which is handy in areas like that.

What I have learnt over the years is that you're better off putting as much effort as possible into the actual metal shaping and welding, don't rely on the filler, it actually works out quicker that way.
 
I wonder if Gareth has something suitably wide and flexible to spread the filler in such a difficult place
An old credit card is good but may not be wide enough
 
i will be just doing the good old hard way till my fingers break off i still not had chance to finish this off yet with the rain i have been sorting out the transmission tunnel out so the d-post is next once i got a dry day lol
 
Hi, the longer you leave filler the harder it gets. You should start rubbing it down
as soon as you can, especially if doing it by hand.

Colin
 
Also filler isn't water proof, it will allow water to soak in, and potentially start the metal rusting. You do have the car covered though ?
 
That certainly looks much better Gareth, a bit of flating and a nice coat of blue to go :D
 
yea it does need 1 or 2 more coats of primer then the blue can go on it does look much better then it did even when its in primer :D
 
hey well my friend has now painted the inside drive side doors of mth and she does look so much better now only problem was that i ran out of the mth blue paint so use a light colour blue which aint that bad at all and the d-post came out really well once i have cleaned her all up i will post some pics
 
hey guys well i have now finished the driver rear d-post and here is a picture of it now dont it look better
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