Unable to remove Distributor driving gear

J

John Platt

New Member
Hi All,
I am unable to remove the Distributor driving gear, to ready the re-timing of the dizzy after fitting new timing chains & tensioners. Plus refurb‘d head.
l‘ve removed the fuel pump & the push rod. (O/h‘d pump)
I’ve screwed a bolt into the thread in the drive gear and it‘s free enough to pull up about 5mm but then gets stuck.
I’ve then tried screwing the bolt tightly into drive gear & can feel a slight twist on the 5mm of free play, so tried twisting in this direction to help
removal, which didn’t work.

I‘ve got a spare auxiliary drive unit and this is also stuck, with same free play, so suspect it’s me not knowing how to remove.

Car is an 2000SC 1970 series 2.

cheers John.
 
The distributor drive gear has a cam lobe on the bottom to operate the fuel pump push rod. Wondering if that's what is fouling inside the housing. You could try rotating the Engine by hand until the gear is 180 degrees around from its current orientation
 
Once "B" is removed it should lift straight out, I used a magnet on the end of a short rod. It should lift away very smoothly.
 
Thanks. Vern & Speedfreak, got it out!
Reading the Rover WSM I missed the reference to the housing, I suppose in my mind I thought the gear was going to slide out through the housing. My excuse, with all the oil & dirt, it looked like the dizzy housing was part of the Auxiliary body lol.

Basically I’ve renewed the timing chains & tensioners, so realised that will I need to reset the Dizzy driving gear (dog) position, after the unbolting the intermediate chain cluster, when fitting the chains.

I’m also trying to have the cylinder head overhauled, but not very successfully though, having bolted it down once to find that I couldn’t turn the camshaft. After unbolting, it turns out that the new collets were the wrong size, causing the exhaust valve no. 2 to pop out with the cam lobe getting stuck inside the spring cup hole. Bloody lucky!

Anyway, I bolted the head down with the camshaft locked using the L shaped bracket. I followed the Rover WSM for the correct bolt tightening sequence, but it all seemed wrong to me, so a wanted to get your comments please?
As I don’t want to go through the stress a second time.

I found due to cam lobe 2 being fully down and cam lobe 3 nearly fully down that the camshaft carrier became cocked over to right, where there are no lobes pointing down onto a valve. Or put another way after tightening 1&2, 3&4 when I went to tighten 4 & 5, they could effectively be tightened by hand, having effectively been pulled down by the bolts to the left of centre (bolts 1&2).
Noting, I was taking my time tightening 1 turn/rotation a bolt in sequence order. Whereby only slight tension was applied on bolt’s 1 & 2, with a lot more on 3&4, 7&8. at which point 1 turn when tightening 5&6, 9&10 could be turn by hand.
I feel, to stop the cam cocking over, I should tighten up 3&4, 7&8 2 turns for every 1 turn of bolts 5&6, 9&10.
Your comments are welcome please gents?
 
John Platt said:
Thanks. Vern & Speedfreak, got it out!
Reading the Rover WSM I missed the reference to the housing, I suppose in my mind I thought the gear was going to slide out through the housing. My excuse, with all the oil & dirt, it looked like the dizzy housing was part of the Auxiliary body lol.

Basically I’ve renewed the timing chains & tensioners, so realised that will I need to reset the Dizzy driving gear (dog) position, after the unbolting the intermediate chain cluster, when fitting the chains.

I’m also trying to have the cylinder head overhauled, but not very successfully though, having bolted it down once to find that I couldn’t turn the camshaft. After unbolting, it turns out that the new collets were the wrong size, causing the exhaust valve no. 2 to pop out with the cam lobe getting stuck inside the spring cup hole. Bloody lucky!

Anyway, I bolted the head down with the camshaft locked using the L shaped bracket. I followed the Rover WSM for the correct bolt tightening sequence, but it all seemed wrong to me, so a wanted to get your comments please?
As I don’t want to go through the stress a second time.

I found due to cam lobe 2 being fully down and cam lobe 3 nearly fully down that the camshaft carrier became cocked over to right, where there are no lobes pointing down onto a valve. Or put another way after tightening 1&2, 3&4 when I went to tighten 4 & 5, they could effectively be tightened by hand, having effectively been pulled down by the bolts to the left of centre (bolts 1&2).
Noting, I was taking my time tightening 1 turn/rotation a bolt in sequence order. Whereby only slight tension was applied on bolt’s 1 & 2, with a lot more on 3&4, 7&8. at which point 1 turn when tightening 5&6, 9&10 could be turn by hand.
I feel, to stop the cam cocking over, I should tighten up 3&4, 7&8 2 turns for every 1 turn of bolts 5&6, 9&10.
Your comments are welcome please gents?
Click to expand...

above my level of knowledge that one I’m afraid, funnily enough, my cylinder head is in being completely rebuilt, overhauled right now. Not something I thought I could take on myself.
 
If you are having the head fully rebuilt up by a company & not doing yourself, make sure you tell them that the bulbous end (which is the end where the valve guides are driven in) is effective hollow In the middle. Therefore it’s important that the diameter of the driver covers the whole of the top diameter of the guide. I figure the company I used didn’t, because they thought (as with most engines in 60’s & 70’s, engines, the valve stem oil seal sits on top of the guide, so it doesn’t matter if it’s crushed a little. Also the company complained that the valve guides I free issued ( Wadhams ), were slightly oversized on the OD, so they ended up in a freezer for over 4 hours, apparently 1 hour is usually enough time to shrink. I suspect, that they must have still been hard to drive in as all 4 exhaust valve guides ended up being compressed inwards, so now I cannot fit in the oil seals in the correct place. I made the assumption that, as this machine shop does loads of cylinder head rebuilds, they know what they’re doing. Maybe yours do, but the one I chose didn’t.
 
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