undersealing

W

wilkinson92

Member
Im going to remove the underseal on my 3500S and apply a fresh coating of rust protection

Will i need 1 ltr cans or will 500ml cans be enough to do the whole car?

also, how do i remove the outer sills? I want to check the condition of the inner sills

Thanks
 
For the whole car? More. Underseal goes on thicker than paint. I'd leave underseal in the 1950s where it belongs. Go for epoxy instead.
 
I use 'Shutz' or similar & spray it on with a compressor. IIRC you would need something like 5 litres to do a full car properly. A suitable 'gun' screws directly onto a litre (?) can.
 
I was planning on using epoxy mastic, then mf3125 then dinitrol 1000 to finish it off. Think this may end up being more expensive then i thought!!
 
Hi Guys,
The problem i found was rusting starting at seams/ flanges areas first which takes hold under the old seam sealant.
Rover did not seem to use seam sealant as we know it,just a thicker type of black mastic.
So far on my NADA resto after repairs/ stripping off all old underseal i have sprayed all areas with red bonda primer then hand painted bonda primer on all seams.
Once fully cured after a week then i used 3M seam sealer in brush able form on all seems etc.
Then i hand brush on underseal on top of seam sealer.
Finished off with 3M shutz with my compressor to the factory look.
I know there are newer products on the market, but have never had any probs with the trusty old shutz on my past rebuilds.
Just a personal view, but then i am old school:)
Clive.
 
I tend towards Clive's view. I've see plenty of rust powder in the shape of car sheetmetal, held together with a thick layer of epoxy seal. I much prefer the self healing asphaltic sealers, easy to repair, easy to remove.

Yours
Vern
 
Hi guys,
You can go a step further if you want,wait for shutz to fully dry ( at least a week) then spray a thin coat of waxoil on top.
Cheers,
Clive.
 
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