V8 - lumenition to powerspark distributor wiring help please

If it was, how would I verify it? I couldn't work out how to get the holder out of the box or even if it can come out.

It would be nice to get shot of the fuse box to rule out problems current and future, but having the electrician do it isn't going to be cheap at £50 an hour! I'll see what he says, I'll be at work when he's here but he's going to give me a call. I'll put the idea to him in the notes I'm leaving him.
 
I guess there would be some sign of melting plastic.... And the contacts might be loose?
 
Not that I can see! Slight, and I do mean slight, browning to the white wires off that fuse, and the paper that lists the fuse sizes, but honestly that's clutching at straws and I think it's just aged.
 
I sympathise with your problems. My 2200 TC had all sorts of bodges with the ignition system and the fitting an aftermarket Radio, scotch locks all over the place cutting through conductors as well as the insulation. I ended up having to remake lots of connections under the dash including to the fuse box, and then found someone had melted the main harness when welding the sills . Had to chop out 18 inches and remake it. It was fire waiting to happen. Hopefully that is all sorted and I can get back to the carburettors, one of which is leaking.
 
It's a bit of a nightmare but I've decided I'm going to just pay the money and get it seen to. It really does seem to be very good otherwise, not without issue but most of the bodywork looks very good. There's some rust in what I think is the D-post area? The 'holes' at the sides of the rear bench anyway - that's not horrendous but fairly nasty so is on the list to be seen to once it's all up and running but it really seems to be the worst bit, outside of that very sound.

Here she is:

BSDg8HG.jpg


And with the S trims I got off eBay a short while ago (while she was still working!) and painted up last week:

e5q6qGe.jpg


I love the car, love the drive, love the sound, everything about it, and I think outside of the wiring is pretty good so I'm happy to bite the bullet and spend some money to get this issue seen to by someone who hopefully knows their stuff. :)

Edit: Yes the rad's leaking! Also on the list! It's very slow though. There's a slow oil leak too. To be expected I guess - although I think it actually may be from the sump plug so when I do the oil change and put a new copper washer on we'll see.
 
What a great looking car.
Should be quite straight forward for the electrician to sort out your problems,
he will be more used to more newer car multiplexed systems.
If you are thinking of a new rad i can recommend uprated 2 core type which has larger
cores and more of them.

cheers clive.
 
Thanks Clive.

He's a vintage VW guy mainly and seems really sound, comes recommended too and sounds keen.

I picked up two six-way blade fuse boxes today which he's going to install for me too.
 
So... Good news and bad news, but at least it's news. The auto electrician says that he's put the wires as they should be and traced the problem to the ignition module on the dizzy and says it's quite common for them to go or to be bad from the get go.

Aside from that though he says by the time he's done everything should be ready for a new ignition module to go on and hopefully all should be well - with new fuse boxes too.

Really hope he's right! He's got til about 3 today and says if he runs short of time will be popping back one evening to finish up but says he should be ok for time to do the boxes.
 
Yeah they're going to send me out a new distributor and module. When I spoke to them on the phone he said that sometimes the module can push the connections in instead of connecting to them, and that's what's happened. But then when the module was removed by the electrician it's pulled one of them back out and damaged it. Bit of a weak point in the design imo (I'll put up a picture in a minute).

But either way they've been really good about it - it's boxed up ready to go back and as soon as he's seen the pics and I send him proof of postage he's going to send me out a new dizzy and module. It's not the issues but the way they're solved that make or break a company for me and they seem really good about it so thumbs up there.

Electrician was good as gold, he's wired up the two new fuse boxes for me and reckons that it should be a matter of dropping in new distributor and I'll be off. Done a top job on them, just need to make up a mount for them now.

We'll see! This has been a bit of a ******* of a car so far and I very much hope that ends here.
 
After the ale I've had, I probably should be going to bed rather than posting....

...but I really don't like these external-module distributors.

With the fiddly minute spade connectors they're difficult to fit ....and worse, the engine bay heat has a distinct effect on the module. It isn't a gradual deterioration...working one minute...not the next. And try replacing one in the dark on a country lane. The "genuine" Lucas modules are marginally better than the generic/badged units once supplied....but having been stranded twice, I wouldn't give either of 'em the time of day.

Not for nothing is there a remote, inner wing-mounted kit for the module available to minimise the problem. This, I understand, was an OEM "solution". Fine if you've got a Landy, but don't bother with these for the P6....they don't sit anything like right. Don't ask me how I know.

This is all my personal experience....so it may not be relevant to your installation. I've gone back to my original Lucas dizzy with Pertronix....and more than happy. Make of it what you will.

Stan

EDIT: And my RVI tacho works happily as well.
 
Hi stan
your spot on with those distributor modules,had 2 fail when i once owned sd1 vitesse.
If i can remember the early version of mk2 sd1 vitesse/vdp efi had module unit mounted under coil assembly ( not the same as early mk1 sd1) these seemed better.
On the lumenitions i have fitted i mount module unit inside car behind passengers glove box,lengthen loom /tape into cars main harness,looks factory fresh.
Only thing you see is the 3 pin connector plug next to distributor.
Module stays nice and cool. :D

clive
 
Well I still have my original distributor so if it turns out they're no good, I will shell out for a new Lumenition unit I guess. We'll see how I go. Hopefully the replacement should be here tomorrow.
 
I can certainly vouch for the overall reliability of Lumenition.

Installed in 1991, the power module failed after serving for 229,000 Miles (369,000km) in 2015. The engine would just cut out instantly. I could then crank on the starter, but it would not fire. If I waited a little, engine would then start.

Fitted a new power module, and away we go!

Ron.
 
Quick update. Still having issues. Powerspark sent me out a new distributor and module, which is now fitted. Same issue persists. While checking everything over I did find that one of the connectrions between module and coil was very flaky indeed and thought maybe I'd finally found the issue but no such luck, seems almost the same. I've tested it with a direct earth from rocker cover to battery negative with jump leads to make sure there's an earth, same with direct live to coil positive to ensure its getting the proper 12v. Neither helped. All the connections are sound but still getting no spark. The coil is producing a spark, tested with spark plug tester connected directly to coil.

While we were fiddling yesterday we did actually get two sparks, once, but then nothing again and couldn't reproduce it (spark tester on #1 cylinder). My mate who was at the engine end just said he wiggled all the wires about and didn't do anything in particular. I don't know if I have another faulty distributor or module, or if there is a wiring or earth issue. The auto electrician is coming around again tomorrow night and we'll have an hour or two to do some more tests and try some more things. If it turns out the distributor or module is broken again I'll send it back to them and try another avenue like pertronix.

Really frustrated because it's all tending to be evenings and I don't have a garage so it's dark and it's poxy work and getting nowhere, but we will get there in the end I guess.
 
Going to try and make a list of everything I know as much for myself to get it written down as anything else...

Battery is a new good item.
Fuse box has been replaced (some issues resolved due to it like dashboard lights now work). This was done by a pro and matches the layout of the original.
Ignition switched 12v (no ballast) from fuse box to the coil and the fuel pump in the engine bay. I get 12v constant measured from either pole of the coil to earth.
Fuel pump is supplying fuel to both carbs, if disconnected there's a healthy flow when ignition is on.
When we connected a spark plug tester and spark plug to the coil output, connected that to a cylinder and turned the engine over, it produced a spark, so the coil is working correctly.
The module is connected to the +ve and -ve connections on the coil as it should be.
Distributor is firmly attached and seated properly. It's timed up exactly as it should be.
The extra earth spade connector on the distributor is attached to a good earth as well.
HT leads are new as is coil and came in a matched set with th electronic distributor with ignition module mounted on the side from Powerspark.

When ignitions turned on the pump goes, and when you turn the key it just turns over and gets no spark at all.

When my mate wiggled some connections about yesterday we go a couple of sparks shown on the #1 cylinder spark plug tester and the engine did a little shake and a little cough but that was it, that's rhe most life I've seen from it since new distributor fitted.

Does anyone have any ideas at all? This is a replacement distributor, cap and ignition module from Powerspark as the first appeared faulty and had ragged connections inside.

Thinking earth may be the issue, I used jump leads to make a good earth - from negative terminal on the battery, to the bolt holding down one of the rocker covers. Didn't make any difference.

I'm pretty much losing my marbles here! It's not a complicated setup and it should be working! I don't want to think I have another faulty distributor/module pair, as it's a new replacement and I was assured by the guy who dealt with it that he'd build and bench test it himself before sending it out and he was helpful and accommodating throughout so I don't think he's told me any porkies or anything. Sorry for the long and rambling post but I really don't have any idea where to go from here.

Put my old distributor back in and get a new ignition system from Pertronix or similar?

Check all the earth straps?

This issue started before the new distributor went in and nothing's changed so I am fairly convinced it lies elsewhere but there's just no spark at all where the was a feeble spark with the previous Lumenition setup but very weak.
 
Have you tried earthing directly from the block to the the body of the car? If it's not sparking most likely is still earthing....
 
rockdemon said:
Have you tried earthing directly from the block to the the body of the car? If it's not sparking most likely is still earthing....
Click to expand...

I haven't, just straight to the battery terminal with jump leads. There should be an earth strap from the block to the bodywork, right? Do you know where it is so I can check it out (it feels like every time I get a moment to look at the car it's dark so knowing where to look will help, plus I guess it might not even be there!)

Otherwise just what, clip a jumper cable to somewhere on the block and then to the base unit somewhere?
 
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