Weber 500 Filter & starting issue

Lads,
finally managed to get her to fire at the weekend. Tried a small amount of easy start, which had no effect. Tried every combination of choke and pumping different amounts of fuel in. I fitted 2 large diesel batteries and an 8V coil in place of the 12V (I have no ballast resistor) to give her a better chance, and gave her more fresh fuel. Eventually she fired and bounced around on her mountings on a few cylinders for about 45 - 60 seconds before settling down to a perfect 700rpm idle without throttle or choke (and she covered everything behind her with unburnt fuel). She also revved cleanly and restarted first try next time (having pumped the throttle twice first, and with the 12v coil refitted). Halfway through the process I removed a few plugs to see if they were fouled and they seemed fine, although they were black, so she is definately a bit rich. I'll try and get to the needles and rods next weekend for a look. I'm hoping she'll fire quickly next time if not left too long.
Regards,
Dave
 
dmcsweeney said:
I'll try and get to the needles and rods next weekend for a look.
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You will need very good eyes or a whacking great magnifying glass - like I did :?
 
Thanks Dave, never heard that before. Could it have built up that quickly though? When she was on SUs she always started on the button (though gave lots of running problems). Even after the Weber was fitted starting only ever became an issue when it sat for a while. Whats the solution if that is the case? Weaken the mix and use the car more? An additive, or a head off decoke?
Regards,
Dave
 
is it the carb ? or something else, I know that with mine one day it was fine and the next it would not start. On inspection at the dealer (in 1989) they discovered it was the cam shaft lobes. What really suprised me was the fact that it went one day and not the next, though I am sure there may have been other issues possibly contributing in fuelling and electrics but before dissasembly you could see the rockers hardly moving on turn over.

Graeme
 
Graeme, thanks for your response. I'm hoping it is the carb now! Soon after I managed to get her to fire yesterday she ran perfectly, with no nasty noises, would she be tappety if the can was worn? I'll certainly have a look though. Going to see what happens Friday when I try starting her again!
Regards,
Dave
 
Mine was not tappety at all and I really had no indication till the morning it wouldn't start, perfectly ok then nuthing at all lol (and I lived on a hill). If for no otehr reason its nice to be able to see what the cam wear is like especially if you don't know the history of the engine maintanence.

Graeme
 
Thanks Graeme, might lift off the rocker covers for a look. The good news is I've got a fast road cam in my stash of parts should the need arise. Might be an excuse to fit it.
Regards,
Dave
 
Hi all,
I still haven't had a chance to check out the problem with the car any further. However, yesterday I managed to get to the work shop for a few minutes, pumped the throttle about 6 times, cranked for 4-5 sec, no cough, pumped again and cranked (battery a bit low), car burst into life and settled down to a 750rpm idle immediately with no choke! After 2 weeks of standing, and the weather was wet and cold. Strange!
Regards,
Dave
 
Can you take off the air filter and see if the pump jets are squirting on your 6 pumps of the pedal ? If not it suggests the carb is empty and needs an electric pump rather than churning over the engine to operate a mechanical pump which also flattens the battery
 
Dave,
thanks for your reply. She is fitted with an electric pump. I've got a facet solid state in the boot feeding via a filter king in the engine bay. I always allow the pump to run for a few seconds before pumping the throttle. Have lifted off the filter as well and checked the fuel is actually being injected. I can even hear a slight change in the tone of the pump when i pump the throttle (i.e. it speeds up momentarily to replace the fuel used).
Regards,
Dave
 
I only usually pump it twice and I have the pump set at its lowest setting.

Have you tried this?

Richard
 
Richard,
I haven't made any changes to the pump (i assume you're refering the the accelerator pump) as I didn't know there was adjustment. I've usually pump it at least 4 times so I'll try 2 this weekend.

DaveHerns said:
I hesitate to suggest more than 6 pumps of the pedal
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Ooopps :shock: Might have over done it a few times then! It started with no real hesitation last week but on the previous attempts it took more than 6 pumps to get any reaction out of it! Though having said that I don't think she flooded. Plugs looked fairely dry. Funny thing is, it'll start no problem, run cleanly and pull well, provided it's not let stand for a few weeks. Last weekend it started as though it had been driven that day, after 2 weeks. If i left it to 3 or 4 weeks there would be no hope!
Regards,
Dave
 
dmcsweeney said:
Richard,
I haven't made any changes to the pump (i assume you're refering the the accelerator pump) as I didn't know there was adjustment. I've usually pump it at least 4 times so I'll try 2 this weekend.

Dave
Click to expand...

There are three holes on the pump arm The nearest to the carb is the richest setting and obviouly, the furthest one away is the leanest.

The carb is set up as standard for a 5 Litre engine, so best to use the leanest setting. Just pull out the little spring clip (Do not lose it like I did :twisted: ) and fit the arm to the furthest hole. Replace spring clip, job done.

Richard
 
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