WHAT ONE FAULT CAUSED THESE SYMPTOMS ???

OK, i am not familiar at all with V8s, but reading carefully between the lines, i 'll give it another try.

The problems have been caused by stuck choke as someone else suggested and this has been caused by broken return spring or missing split pin or something! I cannot go any further than that!
 
Demetris said:
OK, i am not familiar at all with V8s, but reading carefully between the lines, i 'll give it another try.

The problems have been caused by stuck choke as someone else suggested and this has been caused by broken return spring or missing split pin or something! I cannot go any further than that!
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Hi Demetris.

Not a stuck on or off choke!!,But!! You are close to the root cause!!
 
The little rubber pipe elbow, or plastic pipe (603410) which feeds the vacuum from the carb to the dizzy?
 
Right here goes with a full & conclusive explaination :D

Locknut dropped off kickdown cable causing cable to de-adjust causing loss of kickdown, jamming & preventing full throttle causing lack of revs & poor performance, causing gearbox to upchange too early making engine struggle to pull causing poor fuel consumption & also contributing to poor performance 8)

That's my theory & I'm sticking to it
Colin
 
2Diesels said:
Right here goes with a full & conclusive explaination :D

Locknut dropped off kickdown cable causing cable to de-adjust causing loss of kickdown, jamming & preventing full throttle causing lack of revs & poor performance, causing gearbox to upchange too early making engine struggle to pull causing poor fuel consumption & also contributing to poor performance 8)

That's my theory & I'm sticking to it
Colin
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Hi Colin..
You are the closest yet,very very close in fact!!! :wink:
Almost there!!! :wink: Youve nearly "pinned" it down!!! :wink:
 
You are so close its only fair to put you out of your misery!!! :LOL:
The accelerator shaft coupling is a white hard plastic affair,that is held in place with 2 roll pins and 2 split pins!!
One of the split pins had broken,causing a roll pin to be a little loose in its housing,thus affecting the operation of the kickdown cable and the rest of the throttle linkage,by not allowing full movement,which in turn caused all the other related symptoms!
I cleaned it out,greased it up and fitted 2 new split pins,and BINGO! all was performing as well as it used to!
IMAG0109.jpg
 
Nice one Pilkie - the other option with ?nearly? the same effect would be loss of the rubber grommets that the accelerator linkage sits in, one on the bulkhead at the passenger side and one at the bulkhead where the accelerator linkage comes through from the throttle pedal. Replacing these has a huge effect on performance, and I'd guess that if both were missing you'd be unlikely to get kickdown too.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Nice one Pilkie - the other option with ?nearly? the same effect would be loss of the rubber grommets that the accelerator linkage sits in, one on the bulkhead at the passenger side and one at the bulkhead where the accelerator linkage comes through from the throttle pedal. Replacing these has a huge effect on performance, and I'd guess that if both were missing you'd be unlikely to get kickdown too.

Chris
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Thats right,it would! I had that problem a few years ago, I had one spare good grommet,so fitted it on the outer link,but on the inner one,my solution was to snugly fit a sleeve of correct sized black fuel type hose,I had lying about over the linkage rod,and into the hole on the mounting,lubricating with grease!
You can just make it out in the pic to the left of the white coupling!!
This was meant to be a temporary repair but it fitted and works perfectly well so I wont change it!!!
 
richarduk said:
I bet the local garage would have diagnosed a blown engine. :LOL: :wink:
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oohhh don't get me started on my local [Audi] garage.

They fitted the wrong sensor to my engine, which told the puter that the engine was cold and made the temp guage read low (60C).

They told me that they had fitted the right sensor and that the engine was actually running cold because the water pump had failed!! :?

They also told me that the secondary air system was running low on one bank and would need a new pump. Turned out to be a split pipe (£28.00) and nothing to do with the pump (£268.00).

They also told me that the secondary air system was a small electric pump which pumped air into the inlet manifold to heat the engine up quicker??? When I asked him if it was more efficient at pressurising the induction system, than the two hulking great turbochargers, he didn't have an answer!

Not going there any more 8)
 
chrisyork said:
and one at the bulkhead where the accelerator linkage comes through from the throttle pedal. Chris
Click to expand...

Does anybody know how this should actually be? When i got my TC it seemed as though the throttle pedal rod was just punched through the transmission tunnel. Thus it was bearing just through that hole in the tunnel and after all all those years it had created a large oval in it. I bought the supposedly right grommet for the spot (a funnel like rubber thing), but i cannot figure out how this would do the job. What i did was to slit a copper pipe and slide it over the throttle pedal rod, and then jam it to the elongated hole in the transmission tunnel. So, now the throttle rod bears into the copper pipe. The trick worked regarding taking the slackness out of the linkage, but still it doesn't seal the area properly.
I would still like to know how the makers intended this to be. A punched hole in the tunnel sheet metal doesn't seem right to me. A least for a Rover!
 
Hi Demetris I'm not sure what the correct set up is for a L.H.D. car but that rubber grommet is not a bearing it simply stops the noise, fumes & water coming through from the engine bay where the pedal goes through the bulkhead into the engine bay, I think the L.H.D. cars had a proper mounting bracket with little plastic bushes above the pedal with a shaft running through to support the pedal whereas R.H.D. cars have an apparently floating pedal but it is actually mounted by 2 brackets with plastic bushes on the cross shaft on the engine bay side of the bulkhead.

Regards Colin
 
Demetris I have just found a picture of the L.H.D. pedal set up & I see what you mean now the bit you want is part no. 57300 & I suspect what you have is a 577219 from a R.H.D. car

If you look on Rover Classics website at the reference section then click on parts catalogue then accelerator linkage you'll see a picture of both styles the L.H.D. is the picture entitled automatic & the R.H.D. is entitled manual.

Now I know this is for the V8 but the pedal is pretty much the same as a 4 cyl
 
Thanks Colin,

that clarifies things a little. Unfortunately my 2000 parts manual does not have a picture of a LHD setup. The V8 auto LHD setup seems rather complicated with the radically different pedal too. But i can imagine that a bracket should be there, along with a smaller bearing-seal than the part you suggest. Simply there isn't this kind of hole in the tunnel. Maybe this was used on series 2 cars. I just wonder what happened to the bracket!!!! Don't you love old cars!
Anyway, can anyone with a LHD series 1 2000 verify the existence of a bracket for the accelerator pedal INSIDE the car?

Demetris
 
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