Wheel Bearing identification

Dave3066

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Can anyone confirm if these wheel bearings are front or rear please:

CIMG3289.jpg


The top set was sold as possible rears and the bottom set as fronts. I've checked my parts catalogue and it shows the rear inners and outers as being the same part number GHB140 and hence the same size. These ones have a large race and a small race so I'm thinking they're both front. The large race is 60mm (2&1/4") diameter.

CIMG3290.jpg


Left race is from bottom set, right race is from top set.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Dave
 
Hi Dave, they are definitely not rears. They could be fronts, I just replaced a set on my TC recently but I seem to have biffed the box and old bearings so I can't check the part number. :( Sorry.
 
KiwiRover said:
Hi Dave, they are definitely not rears. They could be fronts, I just replaced a set on my TC recently but I seem to have biffed the box and old bearings so I can't check the part number. :( Sorry.
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Kiwi

I didn't think they were rears thanks for confirming.
 
Dave3066 wrote,..
So what are the rears then?
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Hello Dave,

The rear wheel bearings are also tapered rollers.

If you wish to replace both front and rear or even if you don't and you would just like to have some sitting as spares for when the time comes, try and buy some Timken bearings. I was always led to believe that they were the best, and certainly a quality bearing will stand the test of time much better than a lesser item. The rears will also require new collapsible spacers too. Using the old ones is not an option.

Ron.
 
I thought the rears are just straight roller bearings, not tapered

You don't adjust them like taper bearings and they have that spacer in between them
 
Rears are taper roller bearings the same as the front, but all 4 are the same size, and they adjust in a similar way, just using the collapsable spacer between the bearings rather than relying just on the hubnut.
 
The bearings for the front have part numbers GHB102 and GHB105, one of each per side. The rears are all GHB140. The actual diameter of the race is quite a bit larger in the case of the rear bearings when compared to those in the front, while the tapered rollers used both in the front and rear are of the same size.

Ron.
 
I have a pair of Timkin rear wheel bearings, they're stamped 18690 on the bearing ring and 18620 on the bearing race. They're rear wheel bearing and they're tapered rollers.

The part number on the box I have for these is GHK1017, which is the part number I've known for rear wheel bearings. As far as I know GHK105/102's are front wheel bearings.

Having had a glance at yours Dave and compared mine to yours, I'd have said your large bearings are Rear's.

Fraser
 
I'm absolutely positive that FBK222 are p6 front bearings,... :LOL:



The Quinton Hazell equivalent is QWB 144C,although i can't see the part number on the box i'm pretty sure you have a full set of front bearings for a p6,... :wink:

Having had a glance at yours Dave and compared mine to yours, I'd have said your large bearings are Rear's.
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The larger bearing is the front inner and the smaller one is front outer,.. :D
 
Gents

Thanks for all your responses.

SydneyRoverP6B said:
If you wish to replace both front and rear or even if you don't and you would just like to have some sitting as spares for when the time comes
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Hopefully it's the latter at the moment, but there does seem to be a bit too much end float on the rear near-side wheel. I'm no expert so this might be normal for the P6, there's certainly no noise coming from any of the bearings so I'm just building up a spares pool.

hermione149 said:
The Quinton Hazell equivalent is QWB 144C,although i can't see the part number on the box i'm pretty sure you have a full set of front bearings for a p6,...
Click to expand...

I actually have 2 full sets now as I was mis-informed that the QHs were rear bearings and I bought 2 of them. It's a steep learning curve and I keep slipping down :roll:

Cheers
 
Dave3066 wrote,..
there does seem to be a bit too much end float on the rear near-side wheel.
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Hello Dave,

With the wheel off the ground and the hand brake on, either with the wheel on or off,..(the movement will appear to be greater with the wheel on), a small amount of movement in both a clockwise and an anti clockwise direction is acceptable, but there should be no movement at all both towards or away from you when you pull or push on the hub.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
there should be no movement at all both towards or away from you when you pull or push on the hub.
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Thanks for clarifying that Ron

My standard wheel bearing test is to hold top and bottom of the wheel and push/pull to check for movement. There is a small amount of movement when I do this on the N/S rear. Is that movement adjustable or do the bearings need replacing? On other cars I've been able to eliminate this movement by tightening the hub nut. I'm not sure if that's achievable with the P6 rear set-up given the collapsible spacer and the way the hub is initially torqued up.

Cheers
 
Dave3066 wrote,...
My standard wheel bearing test is to hold top and bottom of the wheel and push/pull to check for movement. There is a small amount of movement when I do this on the N/S rear. Is that movement adjustable or do the bearings need replacing? On other cars I've been able to eliminate this movement by tightening the hub nut. I'm not sure if that's achievable with the P6 rear set-up given the collapsible spacer and the way the hub is initially torqued up.
Click to expand...

Hello Dave,

Your standard wheel bearing test is the same as what I do when I check my front wheel bearings for end float,..of which I always leave the smallest twizzle.

I can honestly say I have never detected that type of movement in my rear hubs,..the only movement being as I mentioned previously. When Rover assembled the rear hubs, Loctite was applied to both the splines and thread of the yoke shaft before assembly and tightening of the lock nut. Certainly from my experience with rear hubs, and that experience may differ from that experienced by other Rover owner's, attempting to further tighten the lock nut will not achieve the desired outcome, that is to reduce any end float that may be detected within the hub.

If you do decide you would like to replace the bearings in the N/S hub, then you will require a new collapsible spacer, as the spacer is "one use only". I dare say that using a press to separate the yoke shaft from the hub would also be desirable. Assembly though must be done by tightening the yoke shaft lock nut to apply the required pre load.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
I can honestly say I have never detected that type of movement in my rear hubs,..the only movement being as I mentioned previously. When Rover assembled the rear hubs, Loctite was applied to both the splines and thread of the yoke shaft before assembly and tightening of the lock nut. Certainly from my experience with rear hubs, and that experience may differ from that experienced by other Rover owner's, attempting to further tighten the lock nut will not achieve the desired outcome, that is to reduce any end float that may be detected within the hub.
Click to expand...

Ron

That's what I thought :( I don't have the workshop facilities or tools to do the rear bearing myself but I know a friendly garage just down the road that remembers doing them many years ago so I have options. I'll check it again with the wheel off this weekend to confirm where the movement is coming from and how bad it is.

Thanks

Dave
 
So, are the identically sized taper roller bearing parts interchangeable front and rear? I have a rear hub challenge (way too much end float on re assembly) and I am wondering if this is a front bearing sneaked in there?

Thanks
 
amcdonald wrote,...
So, are the identically sized taper roller bearing parts interchangeable front and rear? I have a rear hub challenge (way too much end float on re assembly) and I am wondering if this is a front bearing sneaked in there?
Click to expand...

If you mean are the front and rear wheel bearings the same, then no. The fronts are very much smaller and won't go anywhere near fitting. Have you fitted a new collapsible spacer? Do you have a spring balance in order to measure the preload being applied to the bearings as you tighten the lock nut?

Ron.
 
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