Wheel Bearings

lil nicky

lil nicky

New Member
Hi,

I'm after some simplle advice (I hope!). The off side rear wheel bearing on my P6 is worn and loose. Is it possible to tighten these up or is the only option to replace? While I think, I could do with knowing the same about the front! Apologies if this is a daft question, but I've never had to deal with wheel bearings before.
 
If you replace, don't forget to also replace the collapsible spacer. Use once only type of part. It may not come with your wheel bearing kit.
 
It's one of those jobs that looks daunting, but is straightforward enough if you're systematic - but you really need a manual.
You need to remove the entire drive-shaft and hub assembly. 4 bolts at the brake disc end, and 6 (?) at the outer end. Then you use a bench vice to support it while you replace the bearing and a spring balance to test the "drag" on the hub while you tighten the nut, collapsing the new spacer the correct amount.
If you're near anyone with a selection of spares, I'd suggest buying a s/h complete halfshaft off them and fitting that to your car. Then you can rebuild your own and keep it as a spare. There are two universal joints on the shaft that are worth checking while you're at it.
 
lil nicky wrote,...
The off side rear wheel bearing on my P6 is worn and loose
Click to expand...

Hello Nicky,

Out of curiosity, how many miles has your Rover covered? What were the signs that indicated that the bearing requires replacement?

Ron.
 
Hi

She's done just over 91k. I'm getting a low vibrating noise from about 40 - 45mph and there appears to be play on that wheel. I've not had her up in the air yet, hoping to do so this weekend.
 
hi,
if you are going to the national rally this sunday, i shall be fetching wheel bearings and collapsible spacers.

ian
 
Willy Eckerslyke said:
It's one of those jobs that looks daunting, but is straightforward enough if you're systematic - but you really need a manual.
You need to remove the entire drive-shaft and hub assembly. 4 bolts at the brake disc end, and 6 (?) at the outer end. Then you use a bench vice to support it while you replace the bearing and a spring balance to test the "drag" on the hub while you tighten the nut, collapsing the new spacer the correct amount.
If you're near anyone with a selection of spares, I'd suggest buying a s/h complete halfshaft off them and fitting that to your car. Then you can rebuild your own and keep it as a spare. There are two universal joints on the shaft that are worth checking while you're at it.
Click to expand...

As Willy says, it's not a difficult job. Once you've got the hub removed from the driveshaft it's pretty straightforward.

Hub nut is 1.1/8" AF and the hub then lifts off the yoke shaft...
100_2094.jpg


Turn the hub over in the vice, use a couple of blocks for support/clearance, and drift the driving flange out of the bearing housing...
100_2097.jpg

100_2101.jpg


Then tap the the seals out and drift/pull the inner/outer races off. You will need new collapsible spacers, which don't come as part of the bearing kit.

Good luck!
 
lil nicky wrote,...
She's done just over 91k. I'm getting a low vibrating noise from about 40 - 45mph and there appears to be play on that wheel. I've not had her up in the air yet, hoping to do so this weekend.
Click to expand...

Hello Nicky,

Hmmm, i would be more inclined to point a finger at one or more universal joints within the half shaft on that side. Have they ever been changed?

When you jack the car up, placing your hands on the tyre at "a quarter to three", you will likely feel a little free play as you rock the tyre. This is normal and is the small amount of play on the yoke shaft splines. There however should be no play in the other plane when placing your hands essentially at the "six o'clock" position and pushing and pulling on the tyre. Both of these tests should be completed with the hand brake applied.

Ron.
 
Thanks for the great pics Vaultsman!
I, and I assume others, appreciate good photos of parts and procedures.
 
Hello chaps,

Got the old girl up in the air today, checked all four wheels and they all have about the same play in them - bout 10mm. I'm guessing that since they are all about the same then either all need new bearings all they're all reasonably ok, which leads me to wondering what could be causing the noise? I know about the prop shaft grease nipple, but are there any others I should be checking, or for that matter, anyone with any other ideas? :?
 
The OEM universal joints fitted into both the tailshaft (2) and each halfshaft (2) giving a total of 6 universal joints have no grease nipples. They are all sealed units. If none have been replaced and with 91,000 miles covered, then it is a very real likelyhood that one or more will require replacement.

Apart from the front wheel bearings requiring a possible reduction in end float, the rears are most likely fine and no attention required.

One or more universal joints are the likely candidates for the problem I feel.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Apart from the front wheel bearings requiring a possible reduction in end float, the rears are most likely fine and no attention required.
Click to expand...

What? With 10mm of play?

Fronts can be adjusted. I wouldnt expect any play in the rears, and if there is 10mm when checked top/bottom then they have either had new bearings fitted without setting up the collapsable spacer properly, or more likely they need replacing.

You'll only feel wear in the driveshaft u/j's by moving the wheel backwards and forwards, (ie with and against the direction of rotation), with the handbrake on, not by rocking the wheel top and bottom.
 
harveyp6 wrote,...
In that case whereabouts would you expect to see 10mm of play?
Click to expand...

I would not expect to see "10mm" of play in either front or rear hubs. Any movement that is detected will measure increasingly so the further from the bearing you go. Typically though, movement is observed at the tyre surface.

In the case of the front hubs, end float is felt and observed when moving the tyre with the hands placed at the 6 o'clock position. Any wear in the bottom ball joint needs to be assessed so as to not influence the assessment of hub end float.

Rear hubs will only show acceptable movement as I detailed in my post above, and as such is a function of tolerance within the splines. This movement is independent of the bearing and as such is not indicative of bearing wear. Bearing wear will highlight when play is detected when assessing in the same way as you would when testing the front bearings.

Ron.
 
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