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Junkman

Junkman

Member
Hello all,

It looks like my 1975 3500 develops ever more electrical glitches.

- I had already mentioned elsewhere, that the wiper doesn't return to the 'park' position. Needless to say that the interval doesn't work either, but alas.

- Now the oil pressure gauge stopped working. At first intermittedly, now apparently permanent. Since then I noticed that the red oil pressure warning lamp doesn't work either. This has never occurred to me while the gauge worked.

- The outer sealed beams stopped working on dipped beam, despite I can clearly measure 12V arriving at the right pin in the plug, both sides. When I insert an H4 bulb, it works. The sealed beams are not burnt out. When I connect the earth and put 12V directly onto the dipped beam contact, they work. I disassembled the plugs, bent the contacts, cleaned them, all to no avail. They do work on main beam together with the inner ones when they are installed in the car.

- The orange choke warning light comes on as soon as I pull the choke.

And a non-electrical problem too:

- The choke can't be locked when it's pulled out and twisted.

Despite I have no problem with swapping an engine or rebuilding one, car electrics are really not my strong point. I would hence appreciate if someone more gifted in this area of expertise could help me. I'm located in Stockport, so Greater Manchester Area would be ideal.

Many, many thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Christian
 
The choke light will be the otter switch on the engine not functioning, our Denovo V8 does it too. The small protruberance (whatever it's called) on the shaft of the choke pull will be worn necessitating your need of a couple of clothes pegs to keep the choke out. Bruiser's does too. :mrgreen:
 
I like the clothes peg fix..

If the choke lamp comes on straight away then you need to check, 1) has the light been wired to just the pull lever switch. 2) has the otter been replace by a normally closed type? i.e. does the lamp go out when warn. 3) the otter is faulty pull off the wire and see if the light goes out. if it doesn't go out then the otter has been by passed.

It is worth removing and cleaning the oil switches. they can gunk up and the pressue switch can rust under the cap hence the intermitant readings. it is possible to strip and clean.

Colin
 
I noticed that one of the oil pressure switches (don't know which one is which) has two pins, but only one wire connected to it. There is no loose wire anywhere to be seen which could belong on the other pin.
 
hi,
it is the oil pressure gauge ( an OE one ) two terminals, but if you look at it closely ( hard i know when it is in situ ) it is a U shape terminal so makes no difference which you connect it to. also you only have the one wire going to it.


joseph
 
Hey, thanks for that.

OK, the oil pressure gauge started working again after I did an engine flush and oil change, so the problem wasn't electrical after all.
 
Fixed so far:

- Outer headlamps replaced with H4 type. They work beautifully. Ironically, the light gets worse now when I switch to main beam. The inner sealed beams yield less light on main, than the H4s on dipped :D

- Oil Pressure Gauge working again - another oil change did it.

Not fixed yet:

- Oil Pressure warning light - presume faulty sending unit.

- Choke warning light - presume faulty Otter switch. Cost of a new one is motivation enough to ignore the warning light.

- Wipers - not yet investigated.

Thanks for all the hints!
 
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