Hi Chris, no text or any kind of explanation on that site I'm afraid. I was given the link via E-mail and most of the details came from those E-mails. First one is this: (his bits are in blue)
I have pictures of the gearbox, the new rear-mount, and the modification of
the BMW donut flange to suit the Rover drive shaft.
The original Rover drive shaft was used, it did not need to be altered in
any way.
The gearbox shown attached to the engine is the 4HP-22, the gearbox sitting
along side is the Borg Warner 3 spd.
The bell-housing is ex-Range Rover.
I will add some written description to the pics to provide more detail.
The issue of the speedometer drive still lingers.
This gearbox came out of an E30 series BMW. BMW take the speedometer driver
from the differential, Landrover - Range Rover from the transfer case.
As it stands, this gearbox does not have a speedometer drive. Currently I'm
using a digital speedometer from a push-bike running of a sensor on the
front wheel. This was adequate for certification and WOF requirements,
however I wish to use the cars original speedometer.
I can either investigate changing the rear of the gear-box to that used on
the Leyland DAF vehicle or making an
electric motor drive to drive the existing mechanical speedometer.
I think the latter option maybe easier as changing the rear of the gear-box
will mean modifying the rear mount and re-certifying and possibly shortening
the drive shaft.
Any questions - please feel free to ask.
I had, so I did! Second E-mails follows:
Hi Quentin, Nick Rogers was good enough to forward your Email on to me. I am in the process of attempting the same conversion you have done. I have a '71 P6B that is (slowly) being converted to USA spec and I have a rebuilt and mildly tweaked motor waiting to go in. I recently aquired a ZF from a Daf ambulance so it already has the right bellhousing for the V8. I haven't bolted it all together yet, just laid it out on the floor. I have a couple of questions...
Did you use the P6 flexplate? No, I used the RR Flexplate, as it is already set up to accept the ZF tourque converter, I used the RR tourque converter as well.Bmw or RR torque converter? and any mods required to fit? No mods, the RR flexplate bolted nicely up to the back of the P6B motor (had to use a spacer, but this was from the RR as well)Flexplate, Spacer, Tourque converter, all from the RR.It looks to me like the RR bellhousing will foul the trans tunnel, any cutting required?
No cutting required, though I did use a soft-face hammer to fold the leading edges of the tranmission tunnel round a little (the join at the front of the trans tunnel and the firewall), this was pretty minor.
This was done more on the side of the transtunnel about in the area of the startmotor pinion housing in the bellhousing.
There is sufficient clearance at the top and the other side of the bell housing.
Any issues with the shift cable? How did you allow for the extra position in the shifter arc? (Does the Beemer have an extra position?)
I used the original shift cable, though I had to reposition the cable to the other side of the transmission tunnel. (to suit the shift lever on the gearbox) I had to make a new hole to support the shift cable in an anchor bracketat the top of the tranmission tunnel. I have kept the cars original shifter, however, you can't select first gear in the gear box. This is not normally a problem since most start-offs in 2-3 or 4 the
gear-box starts in 1st gear anyway. (Actually - I can select first gear. If I pull the shifter all the way back first gear -just- snicks in, whether or not you can do this depends on how you have your cable adjusted. Of course the relationship between 12DNRP and the shift position of the gear box dont exactly line up. I dont think this is actually a problem.
How much of the trans mounts had to be cut from the floor?
One of the orignal Borg Warner mounts has to be mostly (but not totally cut back) to all the ZF to fit in. The end of the ZF is fatter than the old Borg Warner.
Any clearance issues with the exhaust?
mm, not really, though the exhaust is hanging a little lower at the moment than I'd like to see.
Thanks for your help, I will probably have a few different issues as I think the Daf 'box is longer but it does have a speedo drive and a 4 bolt rear flange. Unfortunately it also has the deep sump and a dipstick tube that comes out at the front of the engine so that will have to go. Did the Bmw one fit ok? Some minor tweaking, and the BMW filler tube comes up neatly behing the engine, clearing the heater pipes. Sorry for all these questions but it's great to find that this can be done! I've been putting off a trial fit as the car is till running but i will have to bit the bullet and stuff it in and see what happens!
Thanks again, Al Worsfold (Rover club, Auckland)
Dont worry about the questions, I'm glad to see other people interested in updating the gearbox technology a little.
The car can cruise in top gear now with the engine running at 2200 rpm @ 100km/h Unfortuately, the lockup does not kick in until 115km/h, however, I understand from talking to a
mechanic at an auto shop here in CHCH that by modifying the valve body this lock up speed can be brought down (this is not a big job - apparantely).
Having the lockup kick in will bring the engine speed down to around 2000rpm.
And I left it at that because mine is still not quite fitted yet.