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sorry should of said 73 3500s.....I have 2 sun wheels and 4 planets is that right???

I have my broken diff apart to get the broken 1/4 shaft out how many sun wheels and planets should I have??

ok thanks ill leave it like the pic says then.

quattro what holds the weight then??

that's the image I was looking at. wm says something similar just doesn't make sense to me that they have all that weight and torque on a couple of 5/16 bolts especially when the three on the back are specially coned and 7/16, ps are you the Harvey in the roc mag under the technical advice...

Bit of a long winded one. I am confused as to how the front rubber diff mount is attached to the crossmember on a 3500s 1973. I basically have an oval flange with a bit of rubber through the middle of it. thin bit of rubber sticking out one side and thick bit sticking out the other. when it...

true

huh?????????????? confused now?????????

thanks for all the input guys I will align the arrows as best I can and go from there. Im just annoyed with myself that I didn't mark the dang thing properly in the first place. many thanks coop

I saw the angles of offset for an auto prop but couldn't see the ones for the manual

ok how were the propshafts "made" in relation to the arrows. were the arrows marked after the sliding section was partnered with the rest so u have a matched pair??? I now cant get the arrows aligned wondering if I have a "unmatched pair"

was/is the 2200 different in that respect then? coop

Hi all, Back in jan I took off the propshaft on my 3500s so I could do the gear remote and a few other bits. I dutifuly marked up both ends (the diff end and the sliding joint as I couldn't get the nose bolts undone) half way through removing it I realised I had stupidly marked the locking...

hi, that doesn't look like a chassis number according to http://www.ruediger-wicke.de/chassisno.htm however it might be an engine number. I am sure someone more qualified to comment than me will be along shortly. coop

Ok thanks that's good news. coop

hi Harvey, thanks for the reply. That's what I was doing wrong then I was trying to get to them from the side through the access holes in the tunnel. I also hadn't slackened off the front engine mounts enough because when I did I was able to get to the last stud through the whole in the...

Hi all I am baffled now. Im struggling like mad to get to the nuts on the remote housing. I am trying to get them through the inspection covers on the side of the tunnel from inside the car as there isn't enough space to get them from outside. Im beginning to wonder if I have the engine...

Hi all time for an update and a few more questions (sorry). I have got to the point where I have got the engine and box leaning back and Saturdays job if not tomorrows is to remove the gear selector remote and give it an inspection. One thing I have noticed is the metal acorn that was there 18...

hi very interesting however the fixing for the down pipe doesn't quite look right to me but hard to tell... and the description sounds as if they don't really know what they are on about.... says its for a mg zr in which case no way would it fit. coop

Hi all does anyone know where I can get the rubber mounts for the gear change remote assembly. many thanks coop

sorry meant to say jr waddams do new manifolds for around 200 quid. I know that is expensive especially having it shipped to Australia but probably cheaper than having them welded professionally( if u don't want to go down the brazing route) and definitely cheaper than a custom manifold. coop

+1 to Harvey. You can weld cast iron but its a specialist job... something to do with making a sand mould and heating the sand up repeatedly and letting the item cool over a week or so. very expensive. braising takes a lot less heat and therefor doesn't cause the cast iron to go brittle...

ok thanks sorry to be so thick coop

do I have to take the sump of to do the rear seal????

thanks for the response..... is there a way to stop the engine coming back too far once then gearbox is removed? coop