2200TC Project

I just had the pleasure of a visit from a certain Essex gentleman residing here in Ireland. He did some fault finding, the ignition timing and the Carbs. Oh my what a sound. Purring like a kitten. He pointed out one or two issues, which means the manifold coming off again and Carbs redone, my fault I didn't pay attention to the linkage when refitting, and possibly a butterfly issue. He is coming back to have a look at the Valves, so I'll be getting right on that. I couldn't keep him too long, he charges by the hour, but we got a good bit done. Now back to that awful gear change, I mean it's really bad. Suggestions please.

If anyone is interested. He had an STE Flow Meter on the carbs. Works and fits the TC perfectly.
 
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Seems like your input shaft is turning with the clutch disengaged.

Could be your clutch is dragging, due to muck on the plate, jammed on the shaft so the clutch plate is still hard up against the flywheel with the clutch in, badly adjusted, air in system, or the end of the input shaft can be jammed in the spigot bush.
 
quattro said:
Seems like your input shaft is turning with the clutch disengaged.

Could be your clutch is dragging, due to muck on the plate, jammed on the shaft so the clutch plate is still hard up against the flywheel with the clutch in, badly adjusted, air in system, or the end of the input shaft can be jammed in the spigot bush.
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I'm way out of my league there. I will try bleeding it first. I put in a new slave and rebuilt the master last year, hopefully it's related to that.
 
So, it wouldn't start after some recent work. I suspected the carbs. I wasn't 100% happy about my first rebuild. So with more confidence, this week I rebuilt them again. The springs may have been fouled, they are bl**dy tricky. Seals properly done, the chok...the enrichment device lever, throttle lever, throttle discs all in the right position. Floats adjusted to the correct height, they were out badly. Jet sitting at the chamfer. All tightened up and clean as a whistle. Me thumbs ouch!! Ready to go back on tomorrow. Thumbs crossed.
 
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Carbs rebuilt, reinstalled. Topped up the coolant. Interior done again, few other bits and bobs. New Clutch Master and should be good to go!
 
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Today I took the clutch master cylinder out, a tiny rust hole on top, fluid dripping when the unit was turned upside down. Everytime the clutch was used it must have squeezed some fluid out the top and sucked in air. So I'm hopeful that's my gear change problem. But I'm being hammered by Customs for my Parts, new master and pipe to slave now.

On the upside, after some final checks, I connected the battery to give it a spin, three turns of the ignition it started, no choke. Couldn't believe it.
 
Congratulations on the successful start-up. That must have been a relief!

On the cylinders front, you may be able to offset some of the cost of customs (sorry, our bad!!) with these cylinders from CompBrake Motorsport. I was very surprised at the price and so have just ordered a set for mine. They are UK manufactured and developed for classic racing, so I am hoping they are of a higher quality than the modern "Girling" stuff, which I believe are manufactured in either India or China, and probably made of pure grade "unknownium".

0.625 Integral Master Cylinder - CompBrake
The specification is right for our cars - 5/8" bore. You will have to swap the pushrod over for the long threaded type, but should be no hardship.
 
redrover said:
Congratulations on the successful start-up. That must have been a relief!

On the cylinders front, you may be able to offset some of the cost of customs (sorry, our bad!!) with these cylinders from CompBrake Motorsport. I was very surprised at the price and so have just ordered a set for mine. They are UK manufactured and developed for classic racing, so I am hoping they are of a higher quality than the modern "Girling" stuff, which I believe are manufactured in either India or China, and probably made of pure grade "unknownium".

0.625 Integral Master Cylinder - CompBrake
The specification is right for our cars - 5/8" bore. You will have to swap the pushrod over for the long threaded type, but should be no hardship.
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Thanks Michael, but is that for Brakes or Clutch?
 
BrianMac123 said:
Thanks Michael, but is that for Brakes or Clutch?
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That's the the Clutch.
The brake is a 7/8" (0.875") bore, and a 'remote' type.
Here's the listing for that:
MASTER CYLINDER 0.875 REMOTE - CompBrake

Both the sizes given above are correct for my model year (1972) and almost certainly the same through to the end of production. I know the very early cars sometimes had odd sized things, but from reading the workshop manual and looking at cylinders listed on Wins etc, I'm 99%+ these are correct for mine and your needs.
I've bought one of each. Due to be delivered this week, but the car is still a shell so whilst they'll be installed this weekend, they won't be operational for a while.
 
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Sure that dripping wasnt from the breather hole in the cap? The clutch master on the v8 S is 0.7" bore, but it went to 5/8" on the SD1.
 
jp928 said:
Sure that dripping wasnt from the breather hole in the cap? The clutch master on the v8 S is 0.7" bore, but it went to 5/8" on the SD1.
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There isn't a breather hole in the cap jp. There is a small rusty hole on top of the master cylinder, I'll post a photo tomorrow. I discovered the hole by attaching a pressurised bottle which has it's own cap which fits on the master cylinder. There was a vertical jet of fluid from the hole when pressure was applied.
 
jp928 said:
The clutch master on the v8 S is 0.7" bore, but it went to 5/8" on the SD1.
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That's right. But Brian's car is a 2200. The clutch master was 5/8" (0.625) for all model years according to the factory workshop manual. The design of the integral reservoir changed over the years - from square tin to cast-in reservoir, and metal to plastic caps - but the dimensions remained the same.
 
I'm almost afraid to ask, I let it get to operating temperature just now, to check all was ok, it's not. Distributor side engine panel bubbling from around the top of gasket. Can the gasket be replaced in situ?
 
On that side, just about.
You've got to support the engine on a jack block, remove the engine mount (crows foot), and then work your way round all the bolts. Getting the 3 bolts behind the aux drive housing is difficult without removing it (which is a major undertaking as it disturbs the chains and require both the top and bottom chain tensioners backing off, which means sump off). But you can just about get to all the studs with a 7/16" ring spanner.
Maybe try and get to those bolts behind the aux drive first. If you're confident you can get them out, then jack the engine and remove everything else.
 
redrover said:
On that side, just about.
You've got to support the engine on a jack block, remove the engine mount (crows foot), and then work your way round all the bolts. Getting the 3 bolts behind the aux drive housing is difficult without removing it (which is a major undertaking as it disturbs the chains and require both the top and bottom chain tensioners backing off, which means sump off). But you can just about get to all the studs with a 7/16" ring spanner.
Maybe try and get to those bolts behind the aux drive first. If you're confident you can get them out, then jack the engine and remove everything else.
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I was just surveying it Michael, yes I'm with you. Tried nipping one or two around the offending area, but they've been nipped up before, don't want to ring them. OK, might as well get started. Thanks again, you're a gent.

later edit Just the two behind the aux drive left, I'll get to the rest tomorrow.
 
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