Battery trouble-New Distributor on it's way
- Thread starter corazon
- Start date
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
By a roll pin Jim, which is very fragile. They can break very easily so you need to be very careful. Ideally, buy a couple just in case.
The 35DE8 is the "Opus" distributor. Unfortunately, reliability was not their strength.
Ron.
By a roll pin Jim, which is very fragile. They can break very easily so you need to be very careful. Ideally, buy a couple just in case.
The 35DE8 is the "Opus" distributor. Unfortunately, reliability was not their strength.
Ron.
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
You can't do it that way. You can fit the SD1 gear to the bottom of the P6 dizzy by cutting off a bit of the drive tang to make it fit, but when you remove the wobbly gear from an SD1 dizzy there isn't a tang to drive the oil pump. The only way to fit it is to use the wobbly gear along with the matching SD1 oil pump gears.
SydneyRoverP6B said:
You can't do it that way. You can fit the SD1 gear to the bottom of the P6 dizzy by cutting off a bit of the drive tang to make it fit, but when you remove the wobbly gear from an SD1 dizzy there isn't a tang to drive the oil pump. The only way to fit it is to use the wobbly gear along with the matching SD1 oil pump gears.
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
harveyp6 wrote,...
Hi Harvey,
I think you have misunderstood what I meant. By wobbly drive I was referring to the complete assembly, not just the oil pump drive that attaches via a pin to the base of the gear.
By removing the roll pins, the gears complete can be exchanged. That is right isn't it?
Ron.
harveyp6 wrote,...
Hi Harvey,
I think you have misunderstood what I meant. By wobbly drive I was referring to the complete assembly, not just the oil pump drive that attaches via a pin to the base of the gear.
By removing the roll pins, the gears complete can be exchanged. That is right isn't it?
Ron.
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
HarveyP6 wrote,....
Hmmmm, now that wouldn't be very good. So I am missing something then.... :?
If I think of my Rover,...distributor is a 35D8 as was fitted to the P6B engines. I run an SD1 timing cover with matching oil pump gears. I purchased a wobbly drive ( the gear complete with wobbly tube as was fitted to all later camshaft driven oil pumps). The P6 oil pump drive gear was removed from my distributor, the complete wobbly drive gear fitted in its place. No problem there, so why is doing the opposite a problem, taking a gear and wobbly drive off and fitting a P6 gear in its place to run with a P6 timing cover and oil pump?
Ron.
HarveyP6 wrote,....
Hmmmm, now that wouldn't be very good. So I am missing something then.... :?
If I think of my Rover,...distributor is a 35D8 as was fitted to the P6B engines. I run an SD1 timing cover with matching oil pump gears. I purchased a wobbly drive ( the gear complete with wobbly tube as was fitted to all later camshaft driven oil pumps). The P6 oil pump drive gear was removed from my distributor, the complete wobbly drive gear fitted in its place. No problem there, so why is doing the opposite a problem, taking a gear and wobbly drive off and fitting a P6 gear in its place to run with a P6 timing cover and oil pump?
Ron.
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
Because the oil pump drive on a P6 dizzy is a tang on the bottom of the shaft itself, it's nothing to do with the gear, and that tang is not there on the SD1 dizzy. When you fit the SD1 oil pump gears in conjunction with the P6 dizzy you have to shorten the tang so that the SD1 gear will slide far enough up the shaft to get the holes for the pin to line up. That isn't a problem on the SD1 dizzy because the tang isn't there.
Because the oil pump drive on a P6 dizzy is a tang on the bottom of the shaft itself, it's nothing to do with the gear, and that tang is not there on the SD1 dizzy. When you fit the SD1 oil pump gears in conjunction with the P6 dizzy you have to shorten the tang so that the SD1 gear will slide far enough up the shaft to get the holes for the pin to line up. That isn't a problem on the SD1 dizzy because the tang isn't there.
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
Oh well that makes sense. Seems I haven't looked at enough P6 drive gears.
So going from a P6 to SD1 or later distributor involves far more work in terms of swapping than the converse.
Thanks Harvey.
Ron.
Oh well that makes sense. Seems I haven't looked at enough P6 drive gears.
So going from a P6 to SD1 or later distributor involves far more work in terms of swapping than the converse.
Thanks Harvey.
Ron.
corazon
Well-Known Member
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
Damn. I ignorantly thought i could just change the gear :?
That makes my cheap temporary solution not so cheap, sd1 gears are another 25 quid from real steel.
I might just sell the 35de8 on then, and explore other options....
By the way, is this just what the p6 drive gear looks like- it says it's modified for pre 76 engines P5/P6 to use electronic distributors?, it also says its over £40 :shock:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c2a0333f
Damn. I ignorantly thought i could just change the gear :?
That makes my cheap temporary solution not so cheap, sd1 gears are another 25 quid from real steel.
I might just sell the 35de8 on then, and explore other options....
By the way, is this just what the p6 drive gear looks like- it says it's modified for pre 76 engines P5/P6 to use electronic distributors?, it also says its over £40 :shock:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c2a0333f
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
That's not a P5/P6 gear, but as it says in the ad, it is modified so you can use an SD1 dizzy with P6 oil pump gears. So if you want to fit the dizzy you've bought, that's the gear you need. Someone has obviously spotted the gap in the market.....
corazon said:
That's not a P5/P6 gear, but as it says in the ad, it is modified so you can use an SD1 dizzy with P6 oil pump gears. So if you want to fit the dizzy you've bought, that's the gear you need. Someone has obviously spotted the gap in the market.....
corazon
Well-Known Member
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
Sunday, and yet more testing!
After having time to reflect on what i'd done on friday, i was unconvinced the Ignitor has actually failed.
Following some instructions on the Pertronix webpage:
Firstly, i tested the flamethrower coil's resistance which is meant to be 1.5 ohms. I got a reading of 1.6
Then i attached the -coil terminal to an engine earth, +coil to +voltmeter, -voltmeter to engine earth.
As previously, i got a reading of only 4 volts.
Their instructions mention a reading of 9-6 volts indicates a ballast resistor.
So current is only 2.6 amps.
Secondly i tested the ignitor module again.
I connected ignitor plate to battery -
Red ignitor wire to battery +
-voltmeter to black ignitor wire
+voltmeter to red ignitor wire
Rotate magnet in front of module.
Meter should fluctuate between battery voltage and zero, a constant measurement indicating a failure.
The reading definitely fluctuates from 12.6 down to zero volts but is extremely sensitive- you can hold the magnet on the 'sweet spot' where there's no magnetism and it reads zero volts
So the ignitor appears to function correctly.
What i did notice this time was the module has a little groove on the inner face.
My newly discovered wonky distributor baseplate has clearly caused the magnetic sleeve to rub quite significantly!
So not happy about the groove, but happy that it still functions, i tried a couple of other avenues.
Screwing the dwell in as far as possible, the module just clears the magnetic sleeve.
This must be how i had it set up before. But in losing 2 of the 3 nylon pads from the baseplate, when advanced the module must touch :shock:
I tried a 12v feed from the washer motor to the ignitor, coil fed as previously installed- didn't fire
The same 12v feed to the coil, ignitor wired directly to coil+/- still no start.
Ignition on i tested voltage at the coil, initially 12 volts, after turning over it went down to 10, and the second time down to 8 :?:
I watched the voltage dropping as the fuel pump was operating, from 10 toward 8 until i switched off ignition.
I went to check battery voltage immediately, and it was 12.6.
Seems like i have a number of problems here.
Distributor baseplate
Bad wiring to the coil
and going back to what this thread was originally based, a battery not up to the job
Jim
Sunday, and yet more testing!
After having time to reflect on what i'd done on friday, i was unconvinced the Ignitor has actually failed.
Following some instructions on the Pertronix webpage:
Firstly, i tested the flamethrower coil's resistance which is meant to be 1.5 ohms. I got a reading of 1.6
Then i attached the -coil terminal to an engine earth, +coil to +voltmeter, -voltmeter to engine earth.
As previously, i got a reading of only 4 volts.
Their instructions mention a reading of 9-6 volts indicates a ballast resistor.
So current is only 2.6 amps.
Secondly i tested the ignitor module again.
I connected ignitor plate to battery -
Red ignitor wire to battery +
-voltmeter to black ignitor wire
+voltmeter to red ignitor wire
Rotate magnet in front of module.
Meter should fluctuate between battery voltage and zero, a constant measurement indicating a failure.
The reading definitely fluctuates from 12.6 down to zero volts but is extremely sensitive- you can hold the magnet on the 'sweet spot' where there's no magnetism and it reads zero volts
So the ignitor appears to function correctly.
What i did notice this time was the module has a little groove on the inner face.
My newly discovered wonky distributor baseplate has clearly caused the magnetic sleeve to rub quite significantly!
So not happy about the groove, but happy that it still functions, i tried a couple of other avenues.
Screwing the dwell in as far as possible, the module just clears the magnetic sleeve.
This must be how i had it set up before. But in losing 2 of the 3 nylon pads from the baseplate, when advanced the module must touch :shock:
I tried a 12v feed from the washer motor to the ignitor, coil fed as previously installed- didn't fire
The same 12v feed to the coil, ignitor wired directly to coil+/- still no start.
Ignition on i tested voltage at the coil, initially 12 volts, after turning over it went down to 10, and the second time down to 8 :?:
I watched the voltage dropping as the fuel pump was operating, from 10 toward 8 until i switched off ignition.
I went to check battery voltage immediately, and it was 12.6.
Seems like i have a number of problems here.
Distributor baseplate
Bad wiring to the coil
and going back to what this thread was originally based, a battery not up to the job
Jim
corazon
Well-Known Member
Re: Battery trouble-now possible ignitor failure
I acquired a new unused Mallory dual point very cheap 2nd hand, so that changes things slightly!
The 35de8 will get polished and resold. The extra costs of fitting it with the modified drive gear etc and the hours involved far outweigh the money i just paid for the mallory.
I'll still refurbish my original 35D8 and keep the pertronix in it. That can be the spare
Then perhaps convert the dual point to electronic when i can afford..
Jim
I acquired a new unused Mallory dual point very cheap 2nd hand, so that changes things slightly!
The 35de8 will get polished and resold. The extra costs of fitting it with the modified drive gear etc and the hours involved far outweigh the money i just paid for the mallory.
I'll still refurbish my original 35D8 and keep the pertronix in it. That can be the spare
Then perhaps convert the dual point to electronic when i can afford..
Jim
corazon
Well-Known Member
Re: New Distributor on it's way
The mallory should be arriving tomorrow
Initially, to save money i'm going to run it with the points as i have a non electronic coil from before i changed to pertronix.
However i'll probably convert to electronic with either the mallory e-spark kit or another perhaps the ignitor 2 or 3, don't think 3 is very suitable though..
I've heard good things about running the dual point with an ignition amp.
The latter is clearly cheaper, but i was wondering if anyone has 1st hand experience of both?
I've also been wondering if i could modify my '35d8 fit' pertronix ignitor to fit the dual point baseplate....
Jim
The mallory should be arriving tomorrow
Initially, to save money i'm going to run it with the points as i have a non electronic coil from before i changed to pertronix.
However i'll probably convert to electronic with either the mallory e-spark kit or another perhaps the ignitor 2 or 3, don't think 3 is very suitable though..
I've heard good things about running the dual point with an ignition amp.
The latter is clearly cheaper, but i was wondering if anyone has 1st hand experience of both?
I've also been wondering if i could modify my '35d8 fit' pertronix ignitor to fit the dual point baseplate....
Jim