engine runs only on two cilinders.

K

kees57

New Member
Hi All.'

I want ti buy this one if it is free of rust like the men said.

Do run only on two cilinders because of fault, engine has normal compression and ignition
is oke, I have to drive back with it and some experienced men who maybe now
where look. I do think like the seller it is a SU carb problem, he has two revison sets with it
when I buy, so some help welcome to rule things out.

Car looks good.








Thanks.
 
Hi Harvey

I wil ask the seller witch two are fault, let you now

thanks.

By the way, how do look the rover? looks quite nice for me also the paint.

I have heard that the engine has high compression? and can pingle with wrong
gasoline, but it is nice for LPG, who is high octane from itselfs.

regards

kees
 
Car looks ok in the pictures but the outside means nothing. it's had a respray at some point; the sills should be black and the badge holes on the wings seem to have been filled.
Depends on which engine it has. I'm guessing it's a 4 cylinder? Hard to tell from the pics. Most single carbs and 2200TCs had 9.0:1 compression which won't give trouble. Most 2000TCs had 10:1 compression which can be very sensitive to the correct fuel.
 
Hi Kiwirover

I think a rover of 41 years old wil have some problems with paint, maybe it painted again,
what do you mean with badge holes on wings are filled? what wings do you mean? the sill?

Car is stil in MOT, in the Netherlands this is APK, for just another 1.5 years but this say nothing
I have heard here in Holland, it is look at momentum..

Seller say motorproblems come because of carbs can not tell what cilinders do not work but
compression is oke, measure 11 but this is prone by the equipment who can be not as accurate
I do now this problem, or the cilinder room is full of dirt what I do not think.

I think best is go look and use the carb revision sets in spot and drive back.

regards,
 
Wings are what the English call the mudguards or fenders. There should be a badge just behind the front wheel, above the chrome strip with the engine size on it. There should also be one on the bootlid. These all have mounting pins on the back so there should be a couple of holes to locate them. I can't see them in the pictures so I'm guessing they've been filled.
The sill is the long panel that runs below the doors. On all series 2 cars these were painted black or brown.
There is nothing wrong with the car being repainted, as long as it has been done well and not done to cover a bad body. Take a good look underneath the car and that will give you a better idea of it's true condition.
You still haven't mentioned what kind of engine the car has. 2000, 2200, single or twin carb, 3500?
 
Never mind, just had a look at your other post. 2200TC it is then. Should run fine on whatever premium gasoline you can get over there but I've often had trouble with the HIF carbs on mine. Take a new set of spark plugs when you look at it. First thing is to determine which cylinders it is running on. If it is the front or rear pair then you can almost certainly blame it on a carb. I'd still try the new plugs first as they can foul due to an incorrect mixture and never come right. Take the air cleaner off and make sure both carbs are working. Lift the pistons with your finger or a screwdriver, you should feel light resistance and they should both drop back down slowly with a soft clunk. When you operate the throttle lever/cable both carbs should open in perfect unison. Same goes for the choke linkage. If all that is ok then you may have a problem with a float or needle valve inside the carb and you will have to remove it to get to these. That would be your chance to try one of the spare carbs. But unless you are quite confident in your abilities, I would be very nervous about going that far and expecting to make the car go well enough for a 300km journey, especially if it hasn't moved for a while.
 
The rover is here, I have now work to do, the rust is very little, some on the bottom and needs welding, this is because of leaking water. rest are only paint damage
like on motor bay, who you not see clearly on photo.

I need a manual for the carburettors and engine for repair, maybe there is somewhere a pdf of it. a rubber boot for the dion axel.
I have make some pictures, the seats are very good, not much damage done, this because it has not much km.







 
I have started repair, the carburettors are removed and ready for revision. One was leaking and there is adjusting messing up.



 
Kees : I'm not sure what question you are asking which has not been answered . The carburetters are really quite straightforward, ( if you are concerned about sticking pistons, just remove the bells on the upper part, and if you are worried about dirt in the float chamber, remove the base of the carburetter and look inside ) and all parts and indeed a workshop manual for the carbs are available from Burlen fuel systems, Salisbury, England
 
I have done the carburettors renew all gaskets and flood chamber, jets.

I only need the trhottle sheals and one for the choke axle.

Maybe you now something where to get.

regards

kees
 
I have found them in holland, it is more easy that way.

I do now how to repair the carbs and how to tune, it is very simple. I do buy a book afcourse on ebay.

I have seen oil drips under the engine, it is wet, now I do now english cars do leak oil sometimes, ovehaul
the gaskets will help, most cause is modern oil in the engine while you need mineral oil for them.

But the other side, no rust. :mrgreen:
 
People on here can point you in the right direction regarding oil leaks there are some common causes. Id start by cleaning the engine of all oil then run it and try to work out where the source is. But of course you need to refit the carbs first.
 
Hi

I did see there are oil drips, it do not leak really on the street, but now that sometimes the oilchannel in the head leaks
who needs then a new O-ring. but higher on the engine it is not really wet, only on the carter hang some drips, and on the
gearbox.

I do first need indeed to refit the carbs, I do not have the seals yet but can als relpace them when carbs are on the engine.

These balancer on picture I did make in 15 minutes, so I can balance the carbs exactly.

Do someone know what rust preventie I can best use to tread rust.? I did see there is some welding needed.



regards

kees
 
These balancer on picture I did make in 15 minutes, so I can balance the carbs exactly.
Click to expand...

Hi Kees, interesting contraption. But I can't really figure out how it works. And how are the nozzles connected to the inlets?
Vin
 
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