Fast running 2000 TC

Hi,

I have a problem...don't we all!!!

On my s2 2000 TC I can set idle speed to about 600rpm but once I drive the car the idle speed increases to about 1500 which means no engine braking and fast running when stationary... also the car seems to be running rich I never have to use choke to start from cold......the manual I have is not very helpful....any ideas??

Thanks


Mark
 
Have you checked that the choke is actually fully open? Have a look where the two cable ends meet the carbs. You might need to loosen the grub screws and push the levers down allowing the cable to slide through a little.
 
How old is your distributor? Has it ever been rebuilt? This can be a symptom of weak centrifugal advance return springs. You can buy new springs from ebay for 20 dollars I think.

Check for air leaks. Could be leaks in the carbs. How are your brakes working? You could have a hole in the diaphragm in the brake servo. Does putting you foot on the brake cause the motor to run fast?

James.
 
Hi

Thanks for the responses.

I am in the process of re timing everything ignition wise and have also discovered a rubber bearing that supports the linkage to carbs is perished allowing the mechanism to move up and down....hopefully once all this is done all will be well.

Mark
 
Hey Mark,

Three thoughts occur to me. One already mentioned above. In order of ease of diagnositcs:

1) Distributor springs are old and no longer strong enough to return it to the idle setting. You can check this by using a strobe light while the engine is running. At idle note the ignition timing on the flywheel through the inspection port on the top of the bell housing. Now rev the engine a few times, maybe even hold it at 2,000-3,000 RPM for a few seconds. The ignition timing should advance, release the throttle and the ignition timing should go back to where it was before at idle. If not I would strongly suspect the return springs in the base of the dissy.

2) Leaks around throttle spindles, if you have an vacuum leak there it can speed up the engine and cause all sorts of other issues. Try adding a little grease around the throttle spindles, if you do that and all is good on the running side of things I would say your spindle bushes need replacing.

3) Butterfly valves. I've had a couple of cars with HS8 carbs have their butterfly valves shift on their shafts slightly. In that case they don't quite shut all the way when released back to idle. Unfortunately the easiest way to see if this is the case is to pull the carbs, remove the piston and look through the venturi when the throttle is fully closed (you'll need to back off the idle screw all the way). If you see a sliver of daylight around one side of the valve I would bet that's the case. I found the best way to reseat them was to loosen the two screws securing them to their shafts a turn, and snap the throttle open a couple of times to seat the butterfly correctly. Look again, if you see no light snug up the screws again.

Hope that's some help,

Steven
 
I would expect your carbs need reconditioning, the rubber seals on the spindles will be rock hard and no amount of grease will cure that and the other gaskets may be gone too. Also I expect the spindles and bushes will be worn as will the butterflies and probably the needles and jets too. Everybody seems to think it's ok to run a car with carbs that are over 40 years old and it will be ok to just tweek em a bit. Well sorry a carburettor is a very sencitive piece of equpment and the least bit of air leak will cause problems and wont be fixed by a screwdriver and a dab of grease. The recon kits can be had from SU still, they are not cheap, but the recoup on MPG will be more than enough to pay for it after a couple of years.
 
2000TC's have HS8 carbs, these don't have the rubber spindle seals the HIF6 carbs on 2200TCs had.
 
Thanks to all of you for your very helpful responses.

Now resolved it was a combination of jets seized timing out and poor points!

All I have to do now is to remember to use choke!

Mark
 
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