Glass fuses to blades

May be good in other applications but it doesn't address the design flaw and material choice of the Rover fusebox.
 
I see 2 problems with the original - the base plastic is too soft, melts too easily, and glass fuses can be a pain without a safe extraction method, especially in our fuse box's location - many cars with blade fuses now come with a device to help pull them out. The 3rd fail as I see it is the way some circuits that use interconnects depend on an adjacent fuse being present - the reason we see the small wire U clips being made, as they ensure the interconnects work.
Relays are the only way to prevent heat damage at the headlight fuses.
 
I like the look of these. If the understanding of this issue is right and it really is overheating due to metric fuses being too short (Still not convinced about that!) then this will solve the problem. The only real issue I see is that the fuse box lid won't fit!!
 
I thought about replacing my fusebox but as I am not a gymnast and cannot fold into three, I decided not to:LOL::LOL::LOL:. I have put remote blade fuses where the headlight fuses used to be though as mine did melt!!
 
Personally I dont care about the cover not fitting. Another good side of blades is they are available with LEDs that glow when the fuse has blown. And the rating is visible on the back, making replacement easier.
 
For those who didnt like my home made attempt, look at these...
I have to say, I’m not impressed with these. You now have two points per end for a less than perfect connection. Also, the adaptor will have to be exactly adjusted to fit the existing lass fuse holder. The animations and renderings look slick, but there’s no photos of the actual product on the site as yet. Call me jaundiced, but I wouldn’t want to use them.

I’d have to agree with @chrisw and say go for a modern fuse box conversion.
 
New connections are potential points of failure, but why do you assume they are 'a less than perfect connection'? ALL the connections in the whole thing are potentially less than perfect. Tell us what you would impress you. A modern fuse box conversion would inherently involve new extra connections that are potential failure points, dependent on the operator's skill. I have a new unit with 31 fly leads fitted with bullet sockets, but with my medium solder skills fitting new bullets in a confined space is not attractive, and would add those 31 potential failure points. Just fitting relays to the headlights adds 4 new potential failure points, but nobody brings that up as an objection to doing relays. I have had one headlight failure since doing relays, and that was partly due to panel beaters getting into that area after its misadventure on a flatbed. So far I have had one failure with my home made conversion to blade fuses (4 heavy drain fuses), and that was easily fixed by replacing an old glass fuse in the socket.
 
one can argue technicalities and preferences but essentially we have a known weak point on fuse box (overheating /melt/fire) so any improvements ought to reduce such possibilities. I wasn't aware this replacement 'blade' fuses were available so went down rout of tiring and intricate replacement of old box with 2 (6 blades each) modern box systems. they have very good connections. good earthing etc and have covers. have added labels too so they are as easy to change and see as any others. good luck with whatever you choose but I think ist a modern upgrade I was happy with and worthwhile even though old box was in fact in as new condition!
 

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Thanks for that. As I said my soldering is not up to quality required to convert the old board to a new one , especially in a confined space. My headlight area is damaged, but relays should prevent that from getting worse.
 
Well, the major problem has appeared - when set at 1-1/4" long, the contact with a std ACT fuse is unacceptable. The make suggested using Maxi blades, but the ratings on these start at 30A. Sending mine back for a refund. Going to stick with homemade units.
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