Haunted V8 finally gets fuel pump driven by electrickery

Junkman

Junkman

Member
Yep, you read right.
After 5 years of standing around chain smoking for 45 minutes every time I switched it off, and the car often stalling in heavy traffic even on cold days, even I had enough.

Hence some component buyage was done:
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This is the pump I'm going to use:
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So first, some soldering needs to be done.

Don't forget the shrink tube:
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Out comes the solder:
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Neat, huh?
And tomorrow I will show you how I install it in the car.
 
Looks like a Facet. Very reliable pumps although not the quietest when running. I fitted mine way back, circa 1991 underneath near the tank outlets.

Look forward to seeing your installation :)

Ron.
 
The rest was basically tongue in cheek engineering. As you can see, the reserve cock is still fully functional.
Anyway, I let the pictures do the talking.

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Result:
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Even after only running it for a short time, I can already say that the car is transformed.
It starts instantly, the tickover is a lot more stable, and the throttle response is a lot crisper.

Tomorrow, I will show you the inertia switch installation (it just got too dark to take any decent pics of it)
and there should be some test drivage forthcoming.
 
Hi Junkman,

I don't like to be the bringer of bad news, but from my understanding, you have mounted the pump both in the wrong place and without the correct mounting angle. If your pump is a Facet copy rather than the genuine article, then I would still expect the same mounting instructions to apply.

The Facet is designed to push fuel rather than pull it, so the mounting location needs to be as close to the tank outlet as possible, ie beneath the car at the rear. The pump must also be mounted at a 45 degree angle, not with both inlet and outlet along the same plane.

Below is a link to the instructions.
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/prod ... 77-420.pdf

Ron.
 
That is merely a recommendation, but by no means essential.
I use these pumps for over 30 years in much more demanding environments than a Rover P6 and won many races with it mounted horizontally.
Also, these pumps pull the fuel quite nicely.
 
My pump was mounted in the exact same position, and whilst it did operate adequately, there were times when it suffered vapor lock.
That may not be so in the U.K, but here in the Aust, I would have definitely preferred it up the back of the car as has been suggested.
 
Yes - should be at the back, but if you're happy with how it works then who's to argue...

Rich.
 
I drove it today and it works great.
Even while sitting in traffic, it didn't display the tiniest bit of lumpiness, which it would have done in this situation before the conversion.
It restarted without any hesitation after I had switched it off.
I touched the fuel filter after the journey, and it was not even lukewarm. The pipes were cool to the touch throughout, as was the pump itself.

I read the instructions (which are merely someone else's opinion anyway) and all it says is that you can mount the pump at an upward angle if you have to, up to, but not exceeding 45°.
So no word about that one must mount it at a 45° angle, which doesn't make any sense to me from a physical point of view anyway, because this is a suction pump, deliberately chosen so I could mount it in the engine bay and thus retain the reserve tap, contrary to a push pump, which should be mounted at the back, and mounting that type of pump at an upward angle actually would make sense.
When I started the pump for the first time, it didn't even take five seconds until it had primed itself. Once it did, it ran completely silent and has done so ever since.
It didn't have to prime itself once again, even after the car was parked overnight at an angle with not much more than fumes left in the tank.
 
I'm not sure.
Mine is explicitely a suction pump, it doesn't say anything regarding a pressure relieve valve,
it's specifically for systems with a return pipe and it's actually intended for marine applications.
Since the P6 setup is not dissimilar to what was usual in motorboats, and since I have a lot of experience with those,
I opted for this type.
 
Personally I'd always go for a mechanical pump. its easier to maintain, less to go wrong and no fuses to blow, relays to bother with etc etc etc. I would suggest the reason the cars going so well is the fact that the original mechanical pump needed new valves or diaphragm. An easy job to do or just put on a new AC pump. You can get brand new ones off eBay for £24.00 and no messing with wires. But then if that's what you like, why not. Just not my cup a tea! lol
 
You can not possibly imagine in your wildest dreams, what I went through with this car hitherto.

Just get the mechnical fuel pump into working order, or replace it with a new one?
What do you think I did the past four years?
This car of mine has successfully not responded favourably to any attempt to make it reliable, to the contrary, for everything I did to make it go,
its retaliation was severe.
No matter what was done to the fuel delivery system (and countless other things I did to it), it refused to start up when hot, and it stalled at red lights even on cool days,
not to start again unless you waited for 45 minutes for it to cool down.

This car is possessed by an evil spirit, and there are several forum members on here, who would happily confirm this.

I urge you to swap cars with me for one week only, and you will experience, what a toned down version of hell looks like.

Everyone else would have given up on this provenly possessed car already, but I am a lot thougher, than I look.

You don't believe me?
Go on, let's swap cars for a week.

You'd be a shivering wreck. Trust me on that.
 
I would love to rise to the challenge but unfortunately the pond is to wide :LOL:
Having suffered the same for a few years and the previous owner the same it was a considerable relief to in the end cure my one of the same problems.
I would hate to have to guess what you have so far attempted to do to get it right however a couple of less pursued avenues might be the pick up point in the tank or the return line on the carburetor.
I presume you have seen one of the Vapour lock solutions that was detailed here where the fuel line is rerouted to the inner guard.
I do know that the classic vapour lock problems can be solved using a mechanical pump and I know that they can be better masked using an electric one however I am certain the electric solution still does not address the root cause of the vapour lock but as I say merely masks it.

You have my complete sympathy, frustrating doesn't cover it.

Graeme
 
Hi, junkman. Have you got electronic ignition? The sort with the electronics under a clearish
plastic cover inside the distributor? If so I had the same symptoms, start from cold OK, some
times cutting out, wait 45 mins for a hot restart. If so it was the distributor. hope this helps.

Colin
 
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