Heater box

Guilty as charged!

IMHO, you have 2 options now.
- With the parts you already have at hand, combine the Metro motor with the Rover cage fan. Even if you will have to destroy the Metro cage fan to remove it. This option will give you the highest output with the available parts.
- Buy something like this 3 Speed Squirrel Cage Heater Fan that has already the correct orientation, 3 speeds (the Rover P6 switch can be modified to accomodate 3 speeds) and will be definately more powerfull and more quiet. I don't think that it will be too difficult to combine something like this with the P6 heater box.

Three options, leave the heater as it is as l have to get it over to Richard before the engine is installed & to be frank, l don't think that metal fan will shift as much air as the backwards Metro fan, those blades are tiny by comparison. It's giving a good output as far as l can tell so l'll leave it as is & if l feel it's not enough when the car is back on the road l'll attend to it then.

It's been an enlightening experience for me & anyone else interested in the mod & if another suitably orientated Smiths fan blade can be found (Marina, Montego....etc) then that'll be a bonus.
And if you find a LHD Metro heater anywhere, Demetris, bear me in mind. ;)
 
Hi everybody, I am going to go for the 3 SPEED SQUIRREL CAGE HEATER FAN as propose in this topic it is looking as a good fit with only a small amount of adjustment . One plate is going to be cut out . But I have enough clearance to fit it like it is supposed to be . In the picture you see the plate witch need to be removed . Notice also that you will need to remove the all rear plate of the box before you can access this plate . But if you are overhauling your box its something I would do anyway because of the fact that the most of the rust will be found there . Once I have the blower from Engeland I will throw in some pictures on the progress en the Final results . Have a nice weekend cheers Marc .
 

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Hi Marc,
This is also what i would do. Remove this cage fan from its casing and fit it into the P6 box. However, please make sure that you understand how cage fans work, and the airflow path within the Rover heater box, before starting any modification. If you remove completely any plate, then the fan will not be efficient. I am not sure of the dimensions of the new fan, versus the old one. If you need more depth, then you should modify the front plate towards the front of the car, and make it a convex shape. Remember that the fan should always fit in a closed chamber, with the hole of the front plate being close to the opening of the cage fan, as did the original fan.
 
Hi Marc,
This is also what i would do. Remove this cage fan from its casing and fit it into the P6 box. However, please make sure that you understand how cage fans work, and the airflow path within the Rover heater box, before starting any modification. If you remove completely any plate, then the fan will not be efficient. I am not sure of the dimensions of the new fan, versus the old one. If you need more depth, then you should modify the front plate towards the front of the car, and make it a convex shape. Remember that the fan should always fit in a closed chamber, with the hole of the front plate being close to the opening of the cage fan, as did the original fan.
Ok thank you , I am in need of more depth think around 20 mm but have the choice between the plate on the picture or the one in front with the round hole in it for me it looks the best to go for the rear plate because of the access . I thought that the fact the fan is already in a cage didn't need more boxing afterwards . Placing en other plate after won't be the biggest issue neder I think . Not going to cut anything before I receive the fan . I am also going to test it out of the car I think before replacement . Do you have any idea how I could reconvert the to step ventilation to the tree step ventilation of the new one wood like to keep the original switch to blow the air in the cabine . cheers Marc
 
We compared heater fans today. The fan from Bruiser 2 is the same style as the Metro's but metal. With the Metro fan running backward the P6 fan is more powerful. I don't think the fan in my first photo would be though but that would be why they redesigned it.
The motor is a bit crusty out of the '68 car (as everything was) so Richard is going to put that fan onto the P6 motor from the box l have been working on after cleaning the up the blades. The Metro shaft is thicker so a P6 fan won't fit onto that motor as Demetris suggested. And the extended rear cover fitted into the bulkhead recess with no bother.

So after all that, the Metro conversion is an easy & worthwhile modification but only with the fan from a LHD car, or perhaps a suitable fan from another car yet to be identified. :)
 
You are assuming the LHD Metro fan has the blades in the opposite orientation, until someone throws up a pic of one, all bets are off.
 
Just a bit of extra oomph really which l think would be noticed most in the demist department. Seeing as l've done the dummy run, if l can find a suitable fan l will have another go.
But there's plenty to do before that. I've got a bunch of little mods l want to do first, mainly lighting & interior work.
 
You are assuming the LHD Metro fan has the blades in the opposite orientation, until someone throws up a pic of one, all bets are off.


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If you understand what you are looking at, it is obvious. If not, you have to either take my word, or wait until i remove my heater box. Don't hold your breath though!
 
Do you have any idea how I could reconvert the to step ventilation to the tree step ventilation of the new one wood like to keep the original switch to blow the air in the cabine . cheers Marc

The P6 switch is a sort of a sliding contact type. There are 2 terminals on the extension of the lever that you push down to activate the blower motor, that make contact to earth, one after the other. It may be the opposite, but it is the same logic, if you remove your switch it will be obvious. If you install a third terminal, in the space that you now have the original 2, the switch will be capable to handle 3 speeds.
 
TBH my heater works ok, so I am wondering - what is the reason for this upgrade?

It depends on how you are using the car. For lonesome rides, i wouldn't bother really. But with the whole family on board on a wet day, the demisting could be better.
 
It depends on how you are using the car. For lonesome rides, i wouldn't bother really. But with the whole family on board on a wet day, the demisting could be better.

ahh, now that makes sense. I very rarely have more than just me in there :)
 
ahh, now that makes sense. I very rarely have more than just me in there :)
Ah yeah but…….
If it were drizzling and you got in wearing a damp duffle coat you would be the equivalent of three dry people, or two wet collie dogs and one person or ………..
 
I you google ' Squirrel cage fan blades' a gazillion items come up. The aperture in the heater box can be cut to fit, therefore the upgrading possibilities are huge.
I found that by sealing up all the holes in the de mist tracts in the dashboard shelf boosted the screen de mist no end.
Another possibility is modifying the Metro wheel by cutting off the drive end, and re fixing it to the other, open end of the fan.
 
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I may explore that option a bit more when l get the Metro unit back.

Just a bit of extra oomph really which l think would be noticed most in the demist department. Seeing as l've done the dummy run, if l can find a suitable fan l will have another go.
But there's plenty to do before that. I've got a bunch of little mods l want to do first, mainly lighting & interior work.

After putting the modded drivetrain back in plus the Saxo PAS system plumbed in & all the panels back on of course. :oops:
 
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I found that by sealing up all the holes in the de mist tracts in the dashboard shelf boosted the screen de mist no end.

And talking of moons, it was many of them ago that l became familiar with those little bugbears but only recently that l learned what they were for.
 
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