Lady Charlotte - 1966 2000SC
- Thread starter Dave3066
- Start date
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
NickDunning said:
I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous post
Dave3066 said:
:wink: :roll:
DaveHerns said:
Nope, when the car was new it was dark and cold and wet in winter too. Were drivers really expected to have to recharge the battery every week because the dynamo wasn't up to the job in 1966?
Dave
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
24 miles to work takes me about 40 mins Dave
I went out to the car today and it started no problem. Put the original battery back on, now fully charged, and cleaned all the battery, starter and starter solenoid terminals. Battery voltage off load was 14.5V (fully charged), with the starter turning 10.5V. Battery voltage at starter with starter turning 10.3V, voltage drop in earth and supply lines with starter turning 0.3V so that all look oks.
I started her up and checked the voltage across the battery at fast idle and it was a whopping 18V :shock: only dropping to 14.5V with all the lights on and heater blower on full. I think the voltage regulator needs adjusting a touch but that's a job for tomorrow.
Dave
I went out to the car today and it started no problem. Put the original battery back on, now fully charged, and cleaned all the battery, starter and starter solenoid terminals. Battery voltage off load was 14.5V (fully charged), with the starter turning 10.5V. Battery voltage at starter with starter turning 10.3V, voltage drop in earth and supply lines with starter turning 0.3V so that all look oks.
I started her up and checked the voltage across the battery at fast idle and it was a whopping 18V :shock: only dropping to 14.5V with all the lights on and heater blower on full. I think the voltage regulator needs adjusting a touch but that's a job for tomorrow.
Dave
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Been out and done a few tests today and after yesterday's readings I was expecting to have to make some adjustments...
:? I see no adjusters either on top, bottom or back :? My Lucas guide says the RB340 voltage regulator should have
12.5V at the battery and the car started fine. Disconnected the battery terminals from the voltage regulator and rev'd engine to around 3000rpm, got around 15V at the output of the voltage regulator so all seems ok there. Connected everything back up and measured the voltage at the battery at fast idle with no load
Again seems fine....dunno where that 18V came from last night :?
Loaded the system by turning on the headlamps, heater on full and wipers at position 1
Plenty there to keep the battery charged so I've no idea what was going on yesterday. I have cleaned all the contacts on the starter, solenoid and battery and covered them in petroleum jelly. When I was measuring 18V yesterday the battery was ejecting water from a little overflow. I've checked the operation of the voltage regulator as best I can. It cuts in and out at the right voltages and it's not putting out too much. Guess I'll have to run it this week and see how things go.
Dave
:? I see no adjusters either on top, bottom or back :? My Lucas guide says the RB340 voltage regulator should have
12.5V at the battery and the car started fine. Disconnected the battery terminals from the voltage regulator and rev'd engine to around 3000rpm, got around 15V at the output of the voltage regulator so all seems ok there. Connected everything back up and measured the voltage at the battery at fast idle with no load
Again seems fine....dunno where that 18V came from last night :?
Loaded the system by turning on the headlamps, heater on full and wipers at position 1
Plenty there to keep the battery charged so I've no idea what was going on yesterday. I have cleaned all the contacts on the starter, solenoid and battery and covered them in petroleum jelly. When I was measuring 18V yesterday the battery was ejecting water from a little overflow. I've checked the operation of the voltage regulator as best I can. It cuts in and out at the right voltages and it's not putting out too much. Guess I'll have to run it this week and see how things go.
Dave
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
GrimV8 said:
That's what I'm wondering Grim so I'm trying to find a reliable source of voltage regs. There seem to be a few different part numbers out there. My parts catalogue lists it as a 37378, which returns very few results in a search. There are a couple of different current ratings for them too, an 11A and 22A. I can't see any markings of any kind on mine that might indicate what type it is :? but I would imagine it's more than 11A.
DaveHerns said:
Dave I did come across one company making a 50A alternator in a C42 dynamo case, but they want £450 for it :shock:
I think judicious use of the electrics for now ie lights are a must but heater would be optional. The ram air effect is just enough to blow hot air into the cabin at the sort of speeds I'm doing to work and back.
Dave
Holden's do a range of voltage regulators:
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprod...s&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes/Regulators
Chris
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprod...s&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes/Regulators
Chris
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that Chris
I still need to find out what the correct one should be though.
My parts catalogue lists the dynamo as a C42 30A unit which as far as I can tell needs an RB340/NCB133 30A voltage regulator. The bizarre bit is that the same parts catalogue lists the voltage regulator as part no 37378 which returns no results on a search. I can find a 37563, 37570, 37573, 37572 etc but not a 37378. If anyone else has a parts catalogue for a '66 car would they mind having a look to see what part number it lists for the voltage regulator please
There are no markings on mine so I suspect it's a cheap pattern replacement unit.
This company claims to build electronic voltage regulators that fit inside a standard box to retain the look so that's an option. There are also a number of what appear to be original Lucas units on eBay at various prices too but I could really do with finding out what should be fitted first.
Dave
I still need to find out what the correct one should be though.
My parts catalogue lists the dynamo as a C42 30A unit which as far as I can tell needs an RB340/NCB133 30A voltage regulator. The bizarre bit is that the same parts catalogue lists the voltage regulator as part no 37378 which returns no results on a search. I can find a 37563, 37570, 37573, 37572 etc but not a 37378. If anyone else has a parts catalogue for a '66 car would they mind having a look to see what part number it lists for the voltage regulator please
There are no markings on mine so I suspect it's a cheap pattern replacement unit.
This company claims to build electronic voltage regulators that fit inside a standard box to retain the look so that's an option. There are also a number of what appear to be original Lucas units on eBay at various prices too but I could really do with finding out what should be fitted first.
Dave
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Extracts from the relevant pages of my parts catalogue for clarification
I also found this really useful parts X-ref on the Rover Club of Canada's website
Dave
I also found this really useful parts X-ref on the Rover Club of Canada's website
Dave
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Never a dull day in Roverland then....
Had some running issues on Thurs. The Lady was stuttering a bit on the way to work and cut out just before I got to the petrol station to fill up. I managed to get her going again but she didn't want to start again after filling up. I'd only got 6 miles from home so once I got her going again I went back home and borrowed my wife's car to get to work.
I left The Lady on Sat, had a go at starting her this morning and she refused to start. Did a few checks and found I was getting no spark at the plugs, well the first one I pulled out anyway, so I swapped the electronic ignition module over for some spare points to make sure it wasn't that.....still no spark. I tried a known good spark plug just to check it wasn't a duff plug but that one didn't spark either. I then put a plug straight onto an HT lead from the coil and finally got a spark, so the coil was ok and the fault must be in the distributor cap. Spare cap fitted and problem solved
So cheap aftermarket replacement cap or something else.... :?:
Here's the cap with LUCAS stamped on it and the four HT electrodes looking pretty poor to me....
Now those of you that have been following the tale of my charging issues may well be thinking that these faults are completely unrelated....I'm not so sure...
The engine was showing signs of having had acid sprayed over it, presumably from the battery pressure relief. The first plug I checked just happened to get it's HT voltage from the electrode that seemed to be right in the firing line for the acid spray so I'm wondering if some of that spray has somehow affected the distributor cap?
The battery seems to be charging ok at the moment and starting the car no problem at all so I've cleaned up the engine of all acid spray and will keep an eye on it over the next week.
Happy Rovering
Dave
Had some running issues on Thurs. The Lady was stuttering a bit on the way to work and cut out just before I got to the petrol station to fill up. I managed to get her going again but she didn't want to start again after filling up. I'd only got 6 miles from home so once I got her going again I went back home and borrowed my wife's car to get to work.
I left The Lady on Sat, had a go at starting her this morning and she refused to start. Did a few checks and found I was getting no spark at the plugs, well the first one I pulled out anyway, so I swapped the electronic ignition module over for some spare points to make sure it wasn't that.....still no spark. I tried a known good spark plug just to check it wasn't a duff plug but that one didn't spark either. I then put a plug straight onto an HT lead from the coil and finally got a spark, so the coil was ok and the fault must be in the distributor cap. Spare cap fitted and problem solved
So cheap aftermarket replacement cap or something else.... :?:
Here's the cap with LUCAS stamped on it and the four HT electrodes looking pretty poor to me....
Now those of you that have been following the tale of my charging issues may well be thinking that these faults are completely unrelated....I'm not so sure...
The engine was showing signs of having had acid sprayed over it, presumably from the battery pressure relief. The first plug I checked just happened to get it's HT voltage from the electrode that seemed to be right in the firing line for the acid spray so I'm wondering if some of that spray has somehow affected the distributor cap?
The battery seems to be charging ok at the moment and starting the car no problem at all so I've cleaned up the engine of all acid spray and will keep an eye on it over the next week.
Happy Rovering
Dave