Lady Charlotte - 1966 2000SC

Most RB340 regulators are set for 22 amps, mini, 1100 etc. The ones for 30 amp usually have a yellow crayon mark on the cover to indicate they have been set for 30A. Most of the aftermarket replacements, such as intermotor etc have different guts to the Lucas ones as you have found out and are quite frankly poor.
 
Folks

I'm looking for confirmation of what I fear might be head gasket failure.

Driving home tonight I noticed there was white smoke coming out the exhaust about 5 mins from home, so engine had been running for around half an hour at this stage. The car started to run ever so slightly lumpy, almost as if running low on fuel. I'm due a fill up so I pulled the reserve to no effect. Got home, put the car in the garage, bear in mind it's freezing here just now, noticed the temp gauge nudging the top of normal and the garage was literally filled with white smoke. Turned the engine off and left it to cool for a bit before checking the oil on the dipstick for signs of coolant contamination (none that I could see), the oil filler cap (no sign there either) and the coolant level in the rad (appears ok). Took out all 4 spark plugs see below
CIMG5172.jpg


Spot the odd one out. Plugs are left to right = front to rear

So clearly something amiss on the rear cylinder. Have also done a compression test and I must say it's quite difficult to get the compression tester screwed right in with the recessed plug holes. Anyway from front to rear the readings were 170, 170, 170, 150. I checked the rear cylinder again to make sure the reading was that low and it was.

So I'm thinking head gasket failure, which is bloody typical considering my other car is in surgery just now. If someone could confirm, to the best of their knowledge, it's what I think it is then I'll be doing a head gasket change as soon as I can get a new one.

Cheers

Dave
 
Run the car up until it's hot, then leave it overnight with the cooling system under pressure, then in the morning remove the plugs and look for signs of coolant on them, and also smell them, you can often smell the antifreeze on them if there's a problem, and finally, if you're still not sure, crank it over with the plugs out and look for coolant being shot out of the plug holes.
2 &4 do look as though they could be contaminated, the other two, just out of interest, look as though they've been running weak.
 
Clouds of white smoke is usually a sign of brake fluid rather than coolant. Start by checking to see if there is a large quantity of fluid in the servo vacuum chamber. On a Girling servo it's easy enough just to pull out the plastic adaptor that the vaccuum hose seats onto. I'm not sure if there's an equivalent on the Dunlp set up though - I presume Lady Charlotte is Dunlop?

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Clouds of white smoke is usually a sign of brake fluid rather than coolant. Start by checking to see if there is a large quantity of fluid in the servo vacuum chamber. On a Girling servo it's easy enough just to pull out the plastic adaptor that the vaccuum hose seats onto. I'm not sure if there's an equivalent on the Dunlp set up though - I presume Lady Charlotte is Dunlop?
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Interesting Chris. I'll have a look. She's had a Girling conversion.

harveyp6 said:
Run the car up until it's hot, then leave it overnight with the cooling system under pressure, then in the morning remove the plugs and look for signs of coolant on them, and also smell them, you can often smell the antifreeze on them if there's a problem, and finally, if you're still not sure, crank it over with the plugs out and look for coolant being shot out of the plug holes.
2 &4 do look as though they could be contaminated, the other two, just out of interest, look as though they've been running weak.
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When I did the compression tests I took all the plugs out to make it easier to crank over. I'm almost sure something was being shot out of the cylinders because it hit me in the face. Can't be sure what it was though. I'll do as you suggest and see what happens. Thanks.

arthuy said:
Before you start to get really worried check the Inlet manifold.
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I presume for cracks?

Dave
 
Ok, plugs back in and car run up to temp, or as hot as she would go, it's still bloody freezing out there. Temp gauge barely got out of the white. She ran fine albeit a touch lumpy on the pick up. Rev'd her a few times and she sounded fine again.

CIMG5173.jpg


No this is not some form of divine intervention :LOL: merely a shot or me with head torch to give you an idea of how much smoke there is, although this is much less than when I got home.

Maybe I'm just being paranoid and it's something to do with the fact that it's sub-zero outside and has been pretty much all day. I'll see how things go tomorrow and report back.

Dave
 
Wasn't thinking cracks more gasket sealing.

I had the TC off years ago to get at the exhaust, tried to get away with re-using the gaskets as the looked ok and i didnt have new ones. Water just ran out, slight dif onthe SC but similar regarding the gaskets.

I haven't looked at the sc manifold in years so can't picture where there water jacket is to the cylinders.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
Your 150 psi on the rear cylinder sounds just low enough to hint at a tight valve clearance to me. My money is still on hydraulic fluid though.

Chris
 
The drive to work was ok this morning. She misfires on start up now but clears after about 30 seconds running and is ok from then. I guessing that would be the time taken for the contamination to burn off the plugs :?

chrisyork said:
Your 150 psi on the rear cylinder sounds just low enough to hint at a tight valve clearance to me. My money is still on hydraulic fluid though.
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I've often thought that there might be some sort of valve issue going on. She tends to pop a bit at idle and from what I've read that can indicate valve problems. I didn't get around to checking the brake servo last night so I'll do that first thing tonight when I get home, although I did have a look in the brake fluid reservoir and the level looked ok.

Shes' definitely using/losing coolant somewhere though as I topped her up at the weekend and when I checked last night the level was just about at the tops of the vanes. Temp was a bit erratic on the drive this morning too. At one stage, 5 mins into the journey, the temp needle swung suddenly from the bottom end of the green zone right over to the top end before settling back to the middle. Sticky thermostat I'm thinking but isn't it funny how these symptoms can conspire to raise the stress levels :shock:

She wasn't unduly smoky this morning either. Just the odd puff at low throttle every now and again.

I'll be checking the mixture too, after Harvey's comments on lean running.

On a more positive note, my charging issues seem to be fixed. I fitted a brand new voltage regulator and she's been fine since. A bit slow turning over in this cold weather, but no more starter "clicks" :D

Dave
 
Dave3066 said:
The drive to work was ok this morning. She misfires on start up now but clears after about 30 seconds running and is ok from then. I guessing that would be the time taken for the contamination to burn off the plugs :?
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That's exactly what I would expect to happen if the coolant is forcing itself into the cylinder when left undr pressure. I was going to suggest checking for that at the first start up in the morning, although I would say that wouldn't I........ :LOL:
 
harveyp6 said:
Dave3066 said:
The drive to work was ok this morning. She misfires on start up now but clears after about 30 seconds running and is ok from then. I guessing that would be the time taken for the contamination to burn off the plugs :?
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That's exactly what I would expect to happen if the coolant is forcing itself into the cylinder when left undr pressure. I was going to suggest checking for that at the first start up in the morning, although I would say that wouldn't I........ :LOL:
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Well that seems to confirm that then. I'm going to check valve clearances first to see what they're like but I have a head gasket set on the way. Hopefully the valves and seats are ok but knowing the history of these engines I guess I'll have to wait to see what I find.

I had planned to do a top end rebuild on the V8 this year. Never thought I'd be taking the head off The Lady :roll: (no rude comments thank you very much :wink: )

Dave
 
A tin of Radweld / Barrs Leaks might keep you going until the weather is a bit warmer .
I remember changing the head gasket on my Mk4 Cortina outside when it was snowing - did it in 90 minutes
 
DaveHerns said:
A tin of Radweld / Barrs Leaks might keep you going until the weather is a bit warmer
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Yes I have considered that option too. I just need to keep it going until Verity is done.....says he..... :roll:

Dave
 
Hi folks

The Lady was really bad on Friday. Used about 3 litres of coolant, more white smoke under light throttle and starting to misfire and overheat every time I stopped at traffic lights.

So I put some sealant in yesterday and she seems ok today. Temp nice and stable, no misfire, no smoke. My replacement head gasket set has arrived but hopefully the sealant will do the job until I can get it sorted properly.

:D

Dave
 
GrimV8 said:
Usually if it works it's permanent ish. I'd only go in there if it failed again :wink:
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I like the sound of that Grim :D

Spookily it seems that Practical Classics print a relevant article every time I have a problem with Charlotte. Last time I had charging problems they did an article on dynamo charging systems. Now that I've had head gasket problems they've done an article on how to sort your cylinder head- coincidence or what?

Dave
 
Seems you need to grow another set of arms and hands what with the V8 problems and now Lady C. Never rains but pours, well something like that anyway. Fingers crossed here the sealant buys you some time.
 
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