none, you doing the same thing two different waysWhats the functional difference between spacing the P6 clutch slave away from the bellhousing, and shortening the sd1 pushrod the same amount?
Are the auto mount points different from those of a manual ?
It was sold to me as an SD1 mount / rear crossmember, I trimmed it and modded it to bolt up to what was on the car.Thanks. Thats a better solution than the crude thing I did last time(30 years ago!), where I cut the original mounts off the underside, and just bolted the SD1 ends straight to the floor. Back then I used an Auto prop shaft and didnt have any issues - better keep an eye out for a problem this time.
The rear section in your pic doesnt look like a part of SD1 mount that I have - has the rear been replaced as well as the ends that used to bolt up to the SD1 floor mounts? You dont have a pic of the mount before it went on the car by any chance please?
thanks
I really like the extra arm to pick up the third mount on the car. I missed a golden opportunity there, nicely done !I put my LT77 into an automatic base unit, adapting the SD1 gearbox rear crossmember to the brackets in the tunnel. I cut a bit off the mounts for the BW35 and added it to the SD1 part, to use the third available bracket as well. Cobble-fabbled, but it has held it all in place thus far. In the last pic you can see where I marked a line on the tunnel where the auto output flange was. The LT77 is a bit shorter, so as Cobraboy has said, a spacer on the auto prop is required.View attachment 16556View attachment 16557View attachment 16558
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Oh and no one else has had prop length issues only me. My prop arrows don't line up either, so maybe my prop has had the tube replaced in the past and the numpty factor has crept in and it was remade shorter thus making the use of a spacer necessary to close up the splines.