My 72 3500S work in progress

After researching cams recently I've found out the 3.9 cam is essentially the same grind as the low compression 3.5 only it's 2 degrees advanced.
So I was thinking a better choice might be the standard high comp carb cam coupled with a vernier pulley and time it the way you want..
Jim
 
I have started a new thread on camshafts in the engine section, rather than clogging up Dave's thread here.

Ron.
 
Hi Dave, if you do decide on ARP Main Studs, be aware that because they are specified to be torqued to 80ft/lb compared to the bolts (50-55ft/lb) then you will have to have the Main Tunnel align bored, and you will have to give the ARP studs to your engine reconditioner so they can fit them and torque them to 80ft/lbs and do the machining of the main bearing tunnel, otherwise if you fit then without without the machining and torque them to 80 you will be distorting the caps with the extra torque and hence distort the shells leading to shell/crank damage. I had mine done this way (as I fitted ARP Studs; AR124-5401) and my engine chap (a very proffessional mob) actually scribed the new torque setting onto the bottom of the block for reference if any one comes across the block in the future with the studs fitted. It does make for extra cost having the machining done as well as buying the studs but this is what needs to be done.

FYI; viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13900

Regards,
Scott
 
westOz74P6B said:
Hi Dave, if you do decide on ARP Main Studs, be aware that because they are specified to be torqued to 80ft/lb compared to the bolts (50-55ft/lb) then you will have to have the Main Tunnel align bored, and you will have to give the ARP studs to your engine reconditioner so they can fit them and torque them to 80ft/lbs and do the machining of the main bearing tunnel, otherwise if you fit then without without the machining and torque them to 80 you will be distorting the caps with the extra torque and hence distort the shells leading to shell/crank damage. I had mine done this way (as I fitted ARP Studs; AR124-5401) and my engine chap (a very proffessional mob) actually scribed the new torque setting onto the bottom of the block for reference if any one comes across the block in the future with the studs fitted. It does make for extra cost having the machining done as well as buying the studs but this is what needs to be done.

Regards,
Scott
Click to expand...


Thanks for this info Scott

Dave
 
Been busy with the elbow grease and paraffin and brushes of all shapes and sizes. I'm hoping to get the block and crank to a machine shop in the next couple of weeks so I wanted to at least make it presentable.

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Don't think it's been this clean since it came off the production line :LOL:

Dave
 
Did you removed the blanking plugs from the oil galleries?

A guy I know is always going on that it is the only way to really clean them out. However he was recently experiencing an oil leak as the replacement plugs were supplied slightly under sized.

I haven't removed them myself but seeing as you have the block stripped right down might be worth looking at.

Colin
 
Not removed blanking plugs from the oil galleries Colin. Don't know where they are?

I have been doing a bit of reading though and have discovered a bit of a contradiction in procedures for starting an engine that has been completely rebuilt :?

It's common knowledge that when running in a new camshaft and lifters the engine should be run at 2000 rpm on initial start up. What might not be common knowledge is that if you replace the rear crank oil seal the workshop manual warns not to run the engine at more than 1000 rpm on initial start up as it will damage the rear oil seal. So what should I do if I replace both the rear crank oil seal as well as the camshaft and lifters?

As an aside, it looks like the rocker shafts that were originally fitted to the engine are in far better condition than those that came off the SD1 heads I got.

Dave
 
i found that with rocker shafts. Might be worth posting on the v8 forum about the running in thing unless somebody here has the answer?
 
Yep, good idea Rich. I'll see what the guys on the V8 forum have to say.

I found the blanking plugs for the oilways. Think I'll leave them in.

Dave
 
How long does it take to bed the rear oil seal in? Would 1500rpm for a couple of minutes do it, then move up to 2000rpm?
 
Hi Dave,

Does it mention anything within the P6B workshop manual regarding priming the oil seal?

The 1997 Land Rover engine overhaul manual states that the both the rear oil seal and the seal protector must be lubricated with engine oil prior to fitting. In the case of the front oil seal within the timing cover, it states specifically that Shell Retinax LX grease must be used. There is also a caution which states : Do not use any other type of grease. There is no warning issued with regards to a minimum engine speed for intial use following new oil seals being fitted.

The camshaft and lifters must be run in with the engine speed varying continually between 2000 and 2500rpm.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Dave,

Does it mention anything within the P6B workshop manual regarding priming the oil seal?
Click to expand...

Ron

All it says it is to "lubricate the rear seal with heavy engine oil"

Dave
 
rockdemon said:
Might be worth posting on the v8 forum about the running in thing
Click to expand...

Word from the V8 forum is:

"This is a no brainer, a cam and lifters will set you back about £300 to replace, a rear oil seal, about £15 for all of them, furthermore you can replace the oil seals in an afternoon without taking the engine out, but if they are oiled properly when you install then they will handle 2000 revs with ease."

Thanks to Mike aka kiwicar on the V8 Forum.

Dave
 
Quick update on the old girl's resto. Been busy stripping more bits off. I now have her up on the chassis spinner.....some of you may recognise it

CIMG6755_zps40191285.jpg


I just need to get a few more of the heavy bits out, diff, seats, doors etc and then I can get her on her back :wink:

Dave
 
Hello Dave,

Are you sure this rotator can will the car? It doesn't look that strong to me and you are dealing with a bit of weight here and if you are rotating the car there will additional forces on the car.
I also build a rotator and have a bachelor in engineering and did strength calculations on it. My design is different so forces will also be different but this looks a little flimsey.
Regards
Peter
 
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