My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!

Hi Al,

I've struggled getting shockers onto the lower mounts until I realised I had to reduce the gap between the two mounts by adjusting the height of the hub. The car I take it is sitting on axle stands? I think it was with the shock fully compressed that the bushes take stress and I couldn't fit them until I jacked up the hub a ways. The shockers slipped on much easier. My mounts are standard but I imagine the effect could occur with yours too.
 
Thanks for your thoughts fellas.
Ron, the new bushes aren't two part items, but single urethane 'doughnuts' with a v-shaped taper around the outer middle (if that makes any sense). The bush is already in the shock eyelet while I try and fit both shock and bush at the same time. I wonder if halving the bush mightn't actually be a smart idea! The original factory bushes were two-part rubber items, right?
Surely if the bushes expand when hot then the inner diameter would reduce even further, and therefore be even more of a struggle to fit!?
Tor, the car is on the two-poster lift, just high enough to get the front wheels off easily. I tried fitting the shock at the top first, then jacking the hub up with a trolley jack to get the lower eye over the spigot. No dice. Then I tried to fit the lower mount first. No easier! B*#+er won't go on!
 
Hi Alasdair,

I was thinking that they were in two parts like the original rubber shock bushes. I have seen those that you speak off being in one piece, and often wondered, how on earth would you fit them. I can see the dilemma though but when I mentioned soaking them in hot water, I was looking at them as being in two parts and thinking that they would soften thus allowing some degree of flexibility.

I had a search and found this article about fitting Gaz shocks with poly bushes. It might be of some use.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/~donkenned ... ension.htm

Just thinking out aloud, can you use a 'G' clamp to press them on? A different sized clamp at either end, but it might work.. :?

Ron.
 
Thanks for that link Ron, not all that useful but interesting all the same.
I halved a bushing, it was easy to put the inner half straight on to the spigot, all the way to the chassis leg. With the shock not yet attached at the top I could fit it on the spigot, add the outer bushing and press that on far enough to get the nut to thread on some. It didn't tighten the outer half of the bushing into the shock eye so much as squish the bushing outwards all around the outer edge of the eye. I then fitted the shock to the top mount, jacked up the suspension and fitted the lower eyelet over the spigot. When I tried to fit the outer half bush it wouldn't even press on far enough to enable the nut to 'bite' on the thread, even without a washer.
I just can't press the shock tightly enough against the inner bush to get the outer one to go on very far at all. Without the shock the two halves of the bush slip easily on and off, all the way home. The spring and/or gravity is pushing the shock downwards against/between the bushing halves toward the spigot, even with the suspension lifted on the trolley jack.
Incidentally the vendor of the shock mount reinforcement and the first pair of GAZ shocks tells me he no longer sells the set-up I've had welded on, preferring now to thread the factory 15mm spigots and fit removable sleeves with an inner and outer thread.
Furthermore, the rearmost suspension reinforcing plate that extends from beneath the 'chassis leg' and up around the inner arch 'wall' is too close to the new oversize shock eyelet. The vendor suggested I 'dress' the edge of this plate to 'flare' it backwards, away from the shock mount. In the absence of suitable metal-bashing tools opted instead to grind away a small crescent-shaped section of the plate and file the thin edge somewhat. An irreversible 'modification' to an expensive modification, but I felt it had to be done. There wasn't the option to leave it, the shock eye touched the plate.
I'm somewhat less than delighted, to put it mildly. :twisted: I would warmly welcome any practical hints and tips to resolve my conundrum.
 
Sorry to hear of this unfortunate situation Alasdair. It sounds to me as if the profile of the eyes on the Gaz shocks hasn't been made properly. To me there seems no logical reason as to why the opposing tapers should not be identical.

I wonder if another forum member with a pair of Gaz shocks yet to fit could kindly please confirm if theirs are the same or are they symmetrical?

Ron.

EDIT : So they are symmetrical...that is good. Being tired etc can certainly play tricks on the eyes.
 
Correction! Yesterday evening I wrote a load of piffle about the lower eyelets of the GAZ shocks. I must've been off my head, 'cos actually they're quite symmetrical. I put the optical illusion down to having been tired, hungry, and distracted. I've edited it out of my previous post.
Having had to work most of the weekend, I hope to be able to spend some of tomorrow in the garage...
 
Managed to find some garage time and recruited the help of a mate from one of the neighbouring garages. I hadn't been able to get the large retaining nut to 'bite' on the threaded spigot, but he came up with an ingenious method. I wouldn't of thought of it myself; he drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the spigot, attached a long threaded 8mm rod, and using a wide flat washer and an 8mm nut applied sufficient force to the outer edge of the big mounting nut to further squish the outer bush half and reach the thread. So far so good, but the nut won't go on as far as the nylock ring without the outer bush deforming. The spigot is too short. The oversize lower shock eyes are correspondingly wider than standard size, so there's less visible thread to tighten the shock on to. One shock is at least now installed, if not quite satisfactorily, and hopefully the other side will get the same treatment tomorrow. Sorry, no pics, hard to describe this method but oh so obvious when I saw it working. Would tightening an additional large washer on the outer face of the large retaining nut, using an 8mm bolt in the newly tapped hole, compensate for the large retaining nut not being fully 'home'?
 
Hi Alasdair,

So Gaz made these specifically with larger mounting eyes as a custom job for your Rover? If you back off the nyloc nut so as not to deform the outer bush, how much of the nut is proud of the spigot? Just the nylon ring?

Ron.
 
Hi Ron
Yeah, the shocks ended up being a custom order. I think there are two turns of thread before the nyloc still proud of the spigot. I'll take some photos and measure properly tomorrow so as to be able to get better advice! I really hope to be able to go for a cautious drive tomorrow!
 
You could probably use a suitable medium strength thread locker provided of course there were a sufficient number of threads still on the spigot. I'd also use a bolt and washer as you indicated, again with the same thread locker.

Look forward to seeing the photos Alasdair.

Ron.
 
So, once again with the help of a dextrous friend who has a little more musclepower than weedy me, we managed to get the second front shock fitted, in the same manner as the driver side one, using the extra threaded bar and a large washer to help get the large locknut to 'bite' on the threaded spigot. However, the lower mounting eyelets being 3mm wider than standard sized ones, I can't tighten my big chunky locknuts far enough to reach the nylocs. I've counted five and a half complete turns of each locknut before the outer bush really noticeably starts to deform. How many 'turns' of thread does a locknut have to be wound on by for it to be snug and safe?
Shocks seem to work fine, but a short test drive revealed a noticeable rattle over cobblestones, of which there are a great many where I live in the former East of Berlin! I reckon it's coming from the trailing arms attached to the boot walls, which are fitted with hard-as-nails Delrin(?) bushes. I won't get a chance to turn a wheel or a wrench again until June, 'cos I'm off on a well earnt week-long vacation in the sunny south of France. I'm hopeful that I'll be able to see a bit of the practice for the forthcoming Monaco Grand Prix, which is within cycling distance of where I'll be staying. I checked out the cost of Grandstand tickets, and quickly established they're not for the likes of permanently poor old me! I suppose I'll end up watching it on the telly even though I'll only be a few miles away. :LOL:
More news regarding my Rovering when I return. Not that any of you are holding your breath, I realise!
 
mrtask wrote,...
I can't tighten my big chunky locknuts far enough to reach the nylocs. I've counted five and a half complete turns of each locknut before the outer bush really noticeably starts to deform. How many 'turns' of thread does a locknut have to be wound on by for it to be snug and safe?

The section on a nyloc nut that contains the nylon is an additional length over what would otherwise be a standard width nut. So I would imagine provided the total number of turns is equivilent to that achieved by a standard width nut, then you won't have any issues. Were the nylocs that you fitted Alasdair high tensile or standard?

Ron.
 
I probably ought to write this in another part of the forum, but I´ll tack it on here anyway. Today I eschewed the prohibitively expensive Monaco Grand Prix, even though the husband of an old college friend offered me a pretty damn good price for lunch for two with a good racetrack view at one of the swankier establishments in Monaco. Even his `rates for mates` discount price was way out of my league! Instead, whilst Rosberg Junior paraded to victory, I slogged my way by bicycle up the Col du Vence, an `Haute Category`climb with commanding views of the Baiye des Anges. Took me (as always) ages to get up it, but only a few frightening minutes to whizz back down, at speeds I can only call white knuckle, and at which an accident would probably have ghastly consequences. Still, sometimes you´ve got to live a little, and believe me clinging on to drop handlebars at such speeds is really exhilarating.
Later, whilst enjoying an evening stroll down to the seaside, I saw a pre-war Bugatti race car being driven enthusiastically around a mini roundabout and off along the picturesque coastal road. It certainly looked to my untrained eye as if it was the real thing, seeming to have `patina`unlike so many replica vintage cars. I was gobsmacked, as I imagine it must be worth a phenomenal amount of money. It was really moving, squealing its narrow and high walled tyres, and had a distinctive old-fashioned engine note. So-called supercars are almost two a penny here on the Riviera, but this bright blue beauty really stood out.
The last couple of days I`ve been cycling along the Croisette at Cannes in the evening, on my way back from coastal rides from Antibes to St Raphael and beyond. The film festival means the road is closed to mere normal motorists, only endless black limos and more Lamborghinis/Ferraris/Porsches etc. than I care to count. One modern car that did stick out was what looked like a hugely long new Aston coupé, althoughI suppose it might have been a Rapide. Only got a glimpse, but it looked terrific, not unlike the one-off Maybach Excelero(?), really long and low. A `30s Lagonda roadster was also pretty magnificent.
Oh, and Ron, thanks for that info, I think that helps put my mind at ease. I don´t know how to tell high tensile nuts from normal, but the ones supplied with my lower mounting reinforcements are of a pale and shiny steel, not a dull and dark steel. Guess that makes them high tensile? I will take proper pics when I get home and get back in the garage to iron out that pesky rattling sound.
 
It is a fantastic thrill flying down a hill at breakneck speed. I recall Eric Zabel once saying that flying down a Col at 110kph (70mph) on 23mm wide tubulars with cable pull brakes wasn't the smartest thing to do. Indeed if you thought about it before hand, we probably wouldn't do it at all. What sort of bike is yours Alasdair? Are you a Shimano, Campagnolo or Sram man?

On the topic of high tensile nuts, I am not really sure if it is possible to distinguish between mild steel and high tensile visually. You could always buy some high tensile ones if you wanted to be absolutely certain.

Ron.
 
When I think about it, descending a mountain at breakneck speeds requires high tensile nuts.
Sorry, that wasn´t funny.
Me, I´m an old school Campagnolo fan. I ride an 8yr old LOOK carbon tubed and aluminium lugged frame with a carbon fork and alloy steering tube. The last frame with round tubes before the new monocoque designs came in. It looks like a traditional racing bike at a glance, with a top tube parallel to the road. It has a mixture of Campagnolo components, some Record, some Chorus. 10 speed cassette, effectively 18 gears if you don´t cross the chain from biggest to smallest. I reckon I use 3 of those gears in Berlin, and always wish I had bigger sprockets whenever I ascend a mountain! My bike weighs 9 kilos, but to upgrade to a lighter bike would cost way too much money, so I keep it well maintained and hope it will last for many more years. I don`t race these days, so I am not too worried about it aging, though some wags would have you believe carbon frames only last a couple of seasons. I ain´t Mark Cavendish, so it ought to be okay.
I saw an Aston Rapide in Nice today, and can confirm that wasn´t what I glimpsed in Cannes the other day. Must have been a pre-production prototype that I saw on the Croisette. Also saw a pair of Maclaren MP112Cs (2 of them, bumper to bumper, both yellow) and a lovely two tone silver and black stretch Mercedes Pullman limo.
 
Back in Berlin-Babylon, I've had a chance to drive around town a little bit, now that the front shocks are in place. And waddyaknow, the bleedin' brakes (oof, unintentional pun) are still squeaking. The rear brakes squeal when I'm not pressing the brake pedal. At the slightest touch of the brakes the squeal goes away, but obviously I don't want to be driving around on th ebrakes all the time! Any pointers fellas?
 
I have always found that brake squeal is a function of pad material. What brand and spec of rear pads are you running Alasdair?

Ron.
 
I left The Blue Rumbler parked for four or five hours this afternoon with the headlights on, when I tried to start her up there wasn't so much as a single click of the starter solenoid. Is it usual for a battery to drain fully in that amount of time? It was a brand new battery last June, and judging by the speed with which the engine has always sprung into life it hasn't been suffering from a slow creeping loss of juice in that time either.
Ron, I dunno what brand of pads I've got in her, but the intermittent unreproducable-on-the-ramp squeak is still doing my brain in! I'll order some new pads next week and hopefully that'll sort it. I noticed the wear sensor wire had pulled out of the front driver's side brake shoe, for whatever reason, so I probably need new front and back pads on the driver's side!
Apart from the on-and-off squeaky brake(s), and today's embarassing loss of electrical power, I've been throughly enjoying cruising around town for a few days, chauffering my dear old mum around whilst she's in town for a long weekend visit. On my best behaviour, driving as smoothly as possible. Just the right car for the job. Brilliant, makes all the scraped knuckles worthwhile. :)
 
mrtask wrote,...
so I probably need new front and back pads on the driver's side!

Be sure to change the pads for both front calipers as changing them on one side only could lead to an imbalance, with the car pulling to one side. If the pads are hardly worn and the replacement is to be of the same brand and specification, then you'll probably be ok.

Ron.
 
Back
Top