My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!
- Thread starter mrtask
- Start date
Hi Mr T,
Does the fuel that you are using there in Germany contain ethanol? If so, my understanding is that you will need a richer needle that would otherwise be the case with straight petrol. Do you know what needles are in there at present? Is there any hesitation when the engine is under constant load?
Ron.
Does the fuel that you are using there in Germany contain ethanol? If so, my understanding is that you will need a richer needle that would otherwise be the case with straight petrol. Do you know what needles are in there at present? Is there any hesitation when the engine is under constant load?
Ron.
Geoff Deakin
New Member
That's very good news. 
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Hello Tor. Not your fault mate! Sod's Law.
Hello Ron. No idea how much Ethanol is in our juice, I'll check next time I fill up. I usually buy Shell V-Power, but glancing at their website I didn't find any mention of the ethanol content. No idea what needles are in the carbs either. Seeing the carb bodies fresh from the dishwasher on another recent thread has made me want to do the same to my spare pair. I reckon if I disassemble a pair and rebuild them with the seal kits I already have, I'll finally understand how they work, and won't be afraid of 'em anymore!
Hello Dave. Sounds as if you know what you're looking at when confronted with a circuit diagramm. I can change a lightbulb, even a fuse in my Rover's fusebox, but beyond that electrics mystify me.
Just got an email from the online tyre supplier saying they can't actually sell me the size they said I'd bought and paid for the other day. Retailers who advertise stuff they don't actually have, eh? Stooopid! Back to square one on that score then...
Hello Ron. No idea how much Ethanol is in our juice, I'll check next time I fill up. I usually buy Shell V-Power, but glancing at their website I didn't find any mention of the ethanol content. No idea what needles are in the carbs either. Seeing the carb bodies fresh from the dishwasher on another recent thread has made me want to do the same to my spare pair. I reckon if I disassemble a pair and rebuild them with the seal kits I already have, I'll finally understand how they work, and won't be afraid of 'em anymore!
Hello Dave. Sounds as if you know what you're looking at when confronted with a circuit diagramm. I can change a lightbulb, even a fuse in my Rover's fusebox, but beyond that electrics mystify me.
Just got an email from the online tyre supplier saying they can't actually sell me the size they said I'd bought and paid for the other day. Retailers who advertise stuff they don't actually have, eh? Stooopid! Back to square one on that score then...
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Today I fitted a set of black steel rims shod with 175/80R14 Continental WinterContact TS850 tubeless tyres. The tyre place has put adhesive wheel weights on where the teeth for the hubcaps should hold them onto the inner rim. This meant I couldn't fit either my 'S' or auto 3500 trims unless I trim off or bend back a bunch of teeth on the hubcaps. I haven't decided if I want to do this or not, so for now the car is sitting on bare steelies with long chrome 'S' acorn nuts. Looks very Police issue!
Still waiting for my new heater matrix and replacement rev counter... :roll:
Still waiting for my new heater matrix and replacement rev counter... :roll:
Barten
Active Member
Hello mr Task
I would go back to the tyre fitter and ask them to use weights that fit on the rim instead of those preventing the use of S trims. By the way, what happened to your Vredesteins? A little bit smaller diameter with the 175's. Anyway, enjoy winter Rovering. I plan to get myself a set of studded tyres, but not much to choose from in the correct dimension.
Regards, Barten
I would go back to the tyre fitter and ask them to use weights that fit on the rim instead of those preventing the use of S trims. By the way, what happened to your Vredesteins? A little bit smaller diameter with the 175's. Anyway, enjoy winter Rovering. I plan to get myself a set of studded tyres, but not much to choose from in the correct dimension.
Regards, Barten
mrtask
Well-Known Member
The tyre fitter happily moved the adhesive wheel weights just a tickle further inwards towards the hubs, and I got the 'S' trims fitted this morning. Looks really 'bling'! The narrower tyres are indeed a little bit smaller in circumference, so the car sits lower, but that's fine by me! The steering feels more nimble than with the 185/80R14 Nankang brand summer tyres I have been driving.
The Vredestein Snowtracs turned out to not be available from the online tyre supplier I had initially ordered from. They apologised and refunded my money. The local tyre supplier could only get one last set of four, manufactured last year, and for a prohibitively expensive €555,-. I went for the Continentals for €420,- because they are supposed to be quiet and generally scored well in independent tests. I could've had Uniroyals in 175/80R14 for €360,- but they had a louder noise rating and longer braking distance, so I opted for the more expensive option.
Recored heater matrix and replacement rev counter arrived at home this afternoon just when I got back from the garage... Hope I find the time to fit them this week... Need a 'gleefully rubbing hands expectantly' smilie icon!
The Vredestein Snowtracs turned out to not be available from the online tyre supplier I had initially ordered from. They apologised and refunded my money. The local tyre supplier could only get one last set of four, manufactured last year, and for a prohibitively expensive €555,-. I went for the Continentals for €420,- because they are supposed to be quiet and generally scored well in independent tests. I could've had Uniroyals in 175/80R14 for €360,- but they had a louder noise rating and longer braking distance, so I opted for the more expensive option.
Recored heater matrix and replacement rev counter arrived at home this afternoon just when I got back from the garage... Hope I find the time to fit them this week... Need a 'gleefully rubbing hands expectantly' smilie icon!
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Replacement rev counter fitted, works fine again now, as does the instrument illumination, which turned out to be simply a matter of a loose connection between the thingyjig (resistor?) that brightens or dims the level of lighting and the circuit board. Tightened up the lower of the two big hex nuts on the left side of the instrument panel and 'hey presto!' it all lit up again. I love a quick and simple explanation. Which I'd found it sooner, I've done a few too many miles after dark these last few weeks with no idea what speed I was really travelling!
Had hoped I would be able to reach the three screws on the front underside of the heater box to get at the matrix, without removing the whole box, but alas they're covered by the closed cell foam which I used between heater body and base unit, instead of the original gasket. The entire heater box needs lifting, but I ran out of time and patience for today. Took me far too long to not manage to get the windscreen wipers off, then my mate popped round and showed me a nifty way of levering them off with a wide screwdriver blade. Doh! So simple when you know how! Those fiddly bolts holding the hot and cold air levers to the forks where they come through the firewall are soooo much easier to remove with lots of extensions and from the drivers side footwell! I had previously contorted my hands from the passenger side, can't remember which thread I read that tip on but it was a helpful hint!
Had hoped I would be able to reach the three screws on the front underside of the heater box to get at the matrix, without removing the whole box, but alas they're covered by the closed cell foam which I used between heater body and base unit, instead of the original gasket. The entire heater box needs lifting, but I ran out of time and patience for today. Took me far too long to not manage to get the windscreen wipers off, then my mate popped round and showed me a nifty way of levering them off with a wide screwdriver blade. Doh! So simple when you know how! Those fiddly bolts holding the hot and cold air levers to the forks where they come through the firewall are soooo much easier to remove with lots of extensions and from the drivers side footwell! I had previously contorted my hands from the passenger side, can't remember which thread I read that tip on but it was a helpful hint!
mrtask
Well-Known Member
I've refurbished the heat insulation that covers the heater box, using successive thin coats of black acrylic paint as suggested elsewhere on this forum (was it by WarrenL? I can't remember). This helps to hold down fraying fibres and looks smarter than before, but more importantly ensures that the heat from the heater matrix is then routed into the passenger compartment, rather than radiating away under the bonnet. Conceals the nicely restored heater box, but makes a difference in the amount of warmth enjoyed in the cabin. Even if it still takes quite a while to warm up in there on a winter journey!
A mate who is a machinist is turning me up a replacement for the Magstar centre cap I lost back in the summer, in addition to refinishing the three I still have which were scuffed and dented. Next step will be to find someone who can make the badge for the centre caps. I have a cunning plan for a subtle but stylish modification, watch this space...
I'm still plagued by an oil drip below the engine. I think it is coming from the drivers side valve cover, and I have a theory that it is leaking there because my engine lacks the crankcase breather at the back of that cylinder head. In his wisdom the previous owner blanked it off. How does the factory-fitted breather pipe fit into the head? Is it an interference fit, or is it glued in place, or retained from the inside? Does anybody have one spare for me, I have beer tokens here waiting!? Would it be a case of removing the valve cover to get at the blanking plate, or could I drill into it to then fit the missing breather? Access looks restricted, although an angled compressed air drill might fit in there...
Also, the engine idle speed sometimes seems to settle higher after a spirited drive than at first start up. Pending an accurate replacement rev counter (my recent replacement is reading approximately double what I think is a real figure!) I can't give a figure, but it seems to swing from an ideal between 600 and 800rpm up to 1000 or more if I come to halt after a faster run. Not always, but now and then. Any ideas what might be amiss and how I should rectify it?
A mate who is a machinist is turning me up a replacement for the Magstar centre cap I lost back in the summer, in addition to refinishing the three I still have which were scuffed and dented. Next step will be to find someone who can make the badge for the centre caps. I have a cunning plan for a subtle but stylish modification, watch this space...
I'm still plagued by an oil drip below the engine. I think it is coming from the drivers side valve cover, and I have a theory that it is leaking there because my engine lacks the crankcase breather at the back of that cylinder head. In his wisdom the previous owner blanked it off. How does the factory-fitted breather pipe fit into the head? Is it an interference fit, or is it glued in place, or retained from the inside? Does anybody have one spare for me, I have beer tokens here waiting!? Would it be a case of removing the valve cover to get at the blanking plate, or could I drill into it to then fit the missing breather? Access looks restricted, although an angled compressed air drill might fit in there...
Also, the engine idle speed sometimes seems to settle higher after a spirited drive than at first start up. Pending an accurate replacement rev counter (my recent replacement is reading approximately double what I think is a real figure!) I can't give a figure, but it seems to swing from an ideal between 600 and 800rpm up to 1000 or more if I come to halt after a faster run. Not always, but now and then. Any ideas what might be amiss and how I should rectify it?
mrtask said:
It isn't fitted to the head, it fits into the back of the block. If it's not there then there should be a core plug in its place as was fitted on the SD1 which had a different arrangement. If you can clear the hole the breather pipe just pushes in.
I have the pipe. (603143 below)
http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/images/ ... 02_jpg.htm
Your engine's variable idling is also likely tied in with the absence of the breather filter. Once you have that fitted as per Harvey's instructions, you may well find the idling issue has been fixed.
Ron.
Ron.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the diagram Harvey, guess I have a core plug not a blanking plate, remembered it is an SD1 block so that'll be why I'm missing that bit then. I'll try and snap a pic tomorrow. So, if i can extract it, the core plug will come out leaving a hole the right size for that pipe, 603143, to push into? How do I get the core plug out? That'd presumably involve drilling?
Incidentally, nope, no poppet valves in my butterflies.
Incidentally, nope, no poppet valves in my butterflies.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Hello Demetris. Yeah, I also wondered if I might have been sent a 4 cylinder tacho by mistake, but it is actually the right one for the V8. Not to worry, it'll do as a temporary fix whilst my original instrument gets repaired and returned to me. I was told that the rev counters don't like electronic ignition, but it had worked fine for years, many thousands of miles, with my Lumenition system fitted before suddenly giving up one day late autumn last year!
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Having now driven some three and a half thousand miles since I got my car back on the road with solid-as-a-rock plastic 'Delrin'(?) bushes in the rear trailing arms, and endured a constant thunkety-thunk rattling and banging, I fitted another set of arms with standard Metalastic bushes on Sunday afternoon. Oh my word! What an improvement! Gone is the cacophony of thumps and bumps, the ride is transformed. Everybody who tried to tell me that the 'sport' bushings were a bad idea – you were absolutely right. I should've listened. Haven't driven on the Motorway yet, but in town it has made a huge difference to comfort. I also slowed down or stiffened up(?) the GAZ shocks in the rear by ten 'clicks' from the base setting, and that has made the ride firmer. Also better!
The power steering started to 'click' last week and my heart sank. Turned out that the steering box itself had come loose, most notably the bigger nut with the tabbed safety washer! I remember thinking it was a fiddly blighter to fit when the engine bay was empty, but now that the engine is in there is hardly any access to get a spanner in! Tightened up again and no more 'click', thankfully, but I'll need to keep a sharper eye out for that.
I'm waiting for delivery of a 5 speed manual box now... 8)
The power steering started to 'click' last week and my heart sank. Turned out that the steering box itself had come loose, most notably the bigger nut with the tabbed safety washer! I remember thinking it was a fiddly blighter to fit when the engine bay was empty, but now that the engine is in there is hardly any access to get a spanner in! Tightened up again and no more 'click', thankfully, but I'll need to keep a sharper eye out for that.
I'm waiting for delivery of a 5 speed manual box now... 8)
The P6 rear suspension requires the flex of the metalastic bushes because they move in and out in an arc in addition to up and down, so maybe worth having a close look at the De Dion elbow mounting lugs if you haven't already for any signs of damage from the stiff bushes.
You say you adjusted the GAZ shocks from the base setting, was that in the middle of it's range of adjustment? I'm near to the max adjustment on mine, just wondering how it compares to what others with them have done?
You say you adjusted the GAZ shocks from the base setting, was that in the middle of it's range of adjustment? I'm near to the max adjustment on mine, just wondering how it compares to what others with them have done?