My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!
- Thread starter mrtask
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mrtask
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the compliment. This week I replaced the leaking seal for the sender unit in the petrol tank, topped up the oil in the SU dashpots, and today I enjoyed cruising around town in the late summer sun. Now runs better than before, but still stutters and hesitates ever so slightly when pulling away from a standstill. The drivers side rear trailing arm had started to come loose, and the steering idler bracket also needed nipping back up tight. I'm keeping a very close eye on everything as it is all 'bedding in'.
In a long tunnel with the window open I could just hear a high pitched squeak, but I haven't located where it is coming from yet. There are various muffled thunks and clunks, I think are probably just the front suspension, which now has purple urethane bushings instead of metalastic. In the passenger side wheelarch there is a witness scuff where the front inner edge of the steering arm has just scraped off the black underseal along the uppermost weld of the new chassis stiffening plates, through to the grey underseal but not down to metal. A couple of the shiny wheeltrims squeak like crazy, I think I might have to take them all off!
Great feeling driving again, lots of admiring glances and congratulatory remarks from all sorts of people.
In a long tunnel with the window open I could just hear a high pitched squeak, but I haven't located where it is coming from yet. There are various muffled thunks and clunks, I think are probably just the front suspension, which now has purple urethane bushings instead of metalastic. In the passenger side wheelarch there is a witness scuff where the front inner edge of the steering arm has just scraped off the black underseal along the uppermost weld of the new chassis stiffening plates, through to the grey underseal but not down to metal. A couple of the shiny wheeltrims squeak like crazy, I think I might have to take them all off!
Great feeling driving again, lots of admiring glances and congratulatory remarks from all sorts of people.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the appreciative comments, Richard and Jim.
I reckon you've vastly improved Ron with the colour change from white to dark blue. Our machines would look very smart parked side by side!
This week my mechanically minded friends at Classic Wheels Berlin pointed out that the choke rod was fouling on the underside of the warm air intake to the air filter, which was the reason I was having trouble starting from cold. A judicious bending of said lever means I now have full choke travel once more, and the car starts on the button again, as it ought to. Very happy, it had been a bit embarassing having to turn the key for yonks before the motor finally coughed and spluttered into life.
I also fitted my small Mountney steering wheel on an Astrali boss. It has a fat chunky leather rim and three shiny alloy spokes. Great, at last I can stick my elbow out of the drivers window and comfortably grip the top of the smaller wheel, rather than having to contort my wrist to thus grip the side of the enormous original Bakelite(?) jobby. The whole driving feel is changed, now it feels more 'chuckable' and less like steering a yacht. Can't see the instruments quite as well as before, but hey, it looks way better with the sports wheel.
Apparently I've attached the number plates the wrong way round, the TÜV sticker should be at the back of the car (Doh!), but I drilled the plates to fit the bootlid number plate surround and the mounting plate beneath the front bumper- If I were to try and swap them over now the holes wouldn't correspond, and I'd have to drill four more, so it would look messy. I'll leave it, see if Plod actually says anything, and act contrite if and when.
I still have a very irksome on-and-off squeak to locate and fix, hope it isn't a wheel bearing, might be the brakes at the back. The autobox is sadly incontinent, dripping from the front, but I don't fancy repairing it, I reckon a swap to a 5 speed manual is on the cards. Just have to find all the bits'n'pieces for the changeover. No donor LDV ambulances or SD1s around these parts though.
I reckon you've vastly improved Ron with the colour change from white to dark blue. Our machines would look very smart parked side by side!
This week my mechanically minded friends at Classic Wheels Berlin pointed out that the choke rod was fouling on the underside of the warm air intake to the air filter, which was the reason I was having trouble starting from cold. A judicious bending of said lever means I now have full choke travel once more, and the car starts on the button again, as it ought to. Very happy, it had been a bit embarassing having to turn the key for yonks before the motor finally coughed and spluttered into life.
I also fitted my small Mountney steering wheel on an Astrali boss. It has a fat chunky leather rim and three shiny alloy spokes. Great, at last I can stick my elbow out of the drivers window and comfortably grip the top of the smaller wheel, rather than having to contort my wrist to thus grip the side of the enormous original Bakelite(?) jobby. The whole driving feel is changed, now it feels more 'chuckable' and less like steering a yacht. Can't see the instruments quite as well as before, but hey, it looks way better with the sports wheel.
Apparently I've attached the number plates the wrong way round, the TÜV sticker should be at the back of the car (Doh!), but I drilled the plates to fit the bootlid number plate surround and the mounting plate beneath the front bumper- If I were to try and swap them over now the holes wouldn't correspond, and I'd have to drill four more, so it would look messy. I'll leave it, see if Plod actually says anything, and act contrite if and when.
I still have a very irksome on-and-off squeak to locate and fix, hope it isn't a wheel bearing, might be the brakes at the back. The autobox is sadly incontinent, dripping from the front, but I don't fancy repairing it, I reckon a swap to a 5 speed manual is on the cards. Just have to find all the bits'n'pieces for the changeover. No donor LDV ambulances or SD1s around these parts though.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
The annoying squeak was indeed due to the rear brakes, the right hand disc being pretty damn shonky. I measured them both with a dial indicator, and the right hand one was way outside the tolerance stated in the workshop handbook. Fortunately I have a pair of barely-used spare disks from the late lamented Organ Donor car. I swapped the right hand disc over, braking is now much smoother but the squeaking sound is still prevalent. I didn't actually turn the piston back into the calliper, I just poked the pads back in and hoped the job was a good 'un, but apparently not. Am I right in thinking I'm going to have to remove the pads again and wind the piston back in further? I think I already know the answer to that question, and I suppose I might as well swap the other disc as well, in the hope that will cure the annoying squeak. The bias spring between the handbrake crank and the little tab on the left hand dust cover is missing. Does anybody know what length and strength of spiral spring is appropriate? Also, where can I get the little tab washers for the anti-rattle spring bolts? Only from specialist P6 suppliers, or are they something any Motor factor would have? I'm going to be in London for a few days next week, so perhaps I can pick some tab washers up.
If the replacement disc fitted without binding then the piston won't need winding in. The squeak could be the pads, and chamfering the edges, and putting a smear of Copaslip on the backplates of the pads should cure that. The only other car I've seen with those lockwashers is the Ford Mk4 Zephyr/Zodiac. I can't see any problems with using a spring washer if you can't get the proper ones. The spring on the linkage just holds it in place, so not critical, but I'm sure someone on here would have the correct one.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
That's what I was thinking whilst I was under the car, having been fairly sure I had read something to that effect on here, but when I found out the pesky squeaky mice were still on board I began to be plagued by self doubt. Thanks for reassuring me that I'm not completely barmy. How do I chamfer the brake pads, exactly? I'm guessing you mean rounding off the sharp edges, on a grinding wheel? The out-of-true discs were brand new, so is it possible to get them re-faced on a lathe by a machine shop? If that is acceptable practice, what might it reasonably cost?
mrtask said:
I use a body file and chamfer off the edges at 45 degrees, you don't need to take off much, just enough to get rid of the sharp corner. You can use an ordinary file, just don't breathe in while you're doing it, particularly if they're asbestos based pads.
mrtask said:
You could, as long as they don't go under the minimum thickness, as for cost I wouldn't have a clue, but I'd be surprised if you got that done for much less than a new pair.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
The temperature seems to finally be rising, so I ventured into the garage and began some overdue wrenching. This afternoon I got one driveshaft and disc plus the dripping oil-filled DeDion off before rumbling tummy stopped play. I noticed some fairly 'graunchy'-feeling free movement in the diff/drivetrain when I turned the output flange by hand. How much rotational 'play' should there be? Is this the source of the 'clunk' I've felt on occasion when engaging reverse?
Hi Mr T,
Rotational movement can be fairly generous, 45 degrees not being unreasonable. The 'clunk' can originate from any number or sources including universal joints to diff and pinion cross member mounts, not to forget the rear engine mount (transmission). There will also be a contribution from the gears within the diff too.
Ron.
Rotational movement can be fairly generous, 45 degrees not being unreasonable. The 'clunk' can originate from any number or sources including universal joints to diff and pinion cross member mounts, not to forget the rear engine mount (transmission). There will also be a contribution from the gears within the diff too.
Ron.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ron, that is reassuring.
This afternoon I got the other driveshaft and disc off, then fitted the replacement driveshafts with new UJs, and the grease filled DeDion tube. How the devil do I get the elbows apart far enough to get the driveshaft yokes in place on the replacement discs!? I couldn't budge either hub/elbow outwards enough to get a yoke up past the 'bulge' (!?) on the outer face of the disc. Guess I need a strong helper. Am I missing a trick here? :? :roll:
This afternoon I got the other driveshaft and disc off, then fitted the replacement driveshafts with new UJs, and the grease filled DeDion tube. How the devil do I get the elbows apart far enough to get the driveshaft yokes in place on the replacement discs!? I couldn't budge either hub/elbow outwards enough to get a yoke up past the 'bulge' (!?) on the outer face of the disc. Guess I need a strong helper. Am I missing a trick here? :? :roll:
mrtask said:
That sounds remarkably like your new grease filled de dion tube is seized......... You shouldn't have any problem moving the hubs out far enough. The one trick you might be missing? Raise the driveshaft upwards and lower it in past the bulge on the disc from the top, rather than trying to do the same thing lifting it up from the bottom.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
DeDion tube is fine, it was my brain that had seized! Today I got the driveshafts swivelled into place in a jiffy, easier from above than upwards from below, thanks for the tip Harvey. I must have just been too knackered and not thinking straight yesterday. New UJs have grease nipples in which prevents me from shoving a crowbar in with which to block the axle while torquing it up. Reckon I'll need a helping hand to get 85ft/lbs on the driveshaft bolts! That'll have to wait until Monday when my mate will hopefully be able to assist me, physically and mentally!
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Today one of the other chaps from my shared garage space gave me a hand, holding a crowbar across the wheelnuts whilst I torqued up the driveshafts. We measured the discs that I have had refaced on a lathe with a dial guage, and they're straight as an arrow. Everything was going swimmingly until the last drag pin for the second outer pad refused to go in. The thread in the calliper is cross threaded. Excellent! :evil: Parts manual helpfully informs me that 601915 is a drag pin for the rear calliper. No mention of what thread size. Can anybody here tell me what size thread cutter I need to procure tomorrow?
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Thanks to Harvey for his encyclopaedic P6 knowledge, and Netty the Mini mechanic round the corner who lent me a 5/15" UNF tap, I got the irksome drag pin in, the handbrake lever back on, and the car back off the lift. Can't properly test the brakes yet for full function and hopefully lack of squeaky sounds, as I don't have any front shocks in the car. Consequently the thing lurched and bounced hilariously when I reversed off the lift and parked back in my bay. It is too early to congratulate myself but I have to admit to being a wee bit chuffed that I managed the rear axle overhaul without incident. Hopefully I'll receive my replacement shock absorbers for the front end in due course. I'll relate the whole front shock story when it has been satisfactorily resolved, suffice to say it is a tale that needs to be told...
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Yesterday I took delivery of a pair of new GAZ adjustable shocks for the front of my car, with a larger than standard lower mounting eye to suit a larger than standard bush. And all because I have had larger than standard 22mm od reinforcing threaded tubes welded over the standard 15mm od lower shock mounts. Instead of being held in place at the lower mount by a split pin, the shocks are now threaded up tight with a chunky nyloc nut. Long story short; the first pair of shocks I fitted had standard P6 size lower mounting eyes, and came supplied with two part 'Delrin' (?) plastic bushes with flanges that held the lower eyes rigidly vertical. No lateral movement was possible, so the passenger side lower eyelet cracked and failed. After agreeing with the vendor that I could return them for him to take care of having the shocks suitably upgraded with larger lower eyes, I posted them back to the UK. Due to health reasons the vendor went AWOL for a while, so to speak. Being more than a little unhappy that my car would remain undriveable until I got a suitable set of shocks, I decided to order a pair of custom shocks direct from GAZ. They couldn't provide a lower bushing to suit, but I sourced some from SuperFlex, had them sent to GAZ, who assured me they would fit. Three weeks after payment they're here. 
All in all my Rover has been off the road since I noticed the broken shock in mid January, because I can no longer fit off-the-shelf front shocks.
The thing is, now I can't get the blighters on! Even with liberal application of the assembly grease supplied, the bushing won't budge more than 2/5ths of the way onto the oversize lower mount.
Anybody got any pointers! The adjustment knob and the hard brake line are both close enough to the outer flank of the shock eye to make thumping difficult. I don't think I'm supposed to thumping anything at all though! Can't even really see how I could get a huge pair of grips/clamp round the chassis leg into the engine bay to wind the shock on slowly, because the lower arms and chassis strengthening plates are in the way. I got tired and deflated heave-hoing to no effect so I came home to ask you fellas what to try next! :?:
All in all my Rover has been off the road since I noticed the broken shock in mid January, because I can no longer fit off-the-shelf front shocks.The thing is, now I can't get the blighters on! Even with liberal application of the assembly grease supplied, the bushing won't budge more than 2/5ths of the way onto the oversize lower mount.
Anybody got any pointers! The adjustment knob and the hard brake line are both close enough to the outer flank of the shock eye to make thumping difficult. I don't think I'm supposed to thumping anything at all though! Can't even really see how I could get a huge pair of grips/clamp round the chassis leg into the engine bay to wind the shock on slowly, because the lower arms and chassis strengthening plates are in the way. I got tired and deflated heave-hoing to no effect so I came home to ask you fellas what to try next! :?:
Hi Mr T,
Can you use something like a short length of steel tube of the correct diameter to fit over the shaft so as to sit up against the inner bush? Then can you hammer the tube thus pushing the inner bush home? Fit the eye of the shock absorber over the inner bush, slide the outer bush onto the shaft and repeat with the rod and hammer.
If there is insufficient clearance in order to get a reasonable swing, the other alternative would be to try and lever it on, using a suitable rod and some pieces of wood... :?
One other thought might be to immerse the bushes in hot water so as to soften them. They should expand quite nicely so you should be able to quickly push them on without too much trouble.
Ron.
Can you use something like a short length of steel tube of the correct diameter to fit over the shaft so as to sit up against the inner bush? Then can you hammer the tube thus pushing the inner bush home? Fit the eye of the shock absorber over the inner bush, slide the outer bush onto the shaft and repeat with the rod and hammer.
If there is insufficient clearance in order to get a reasonable swing, the other alternative would be to try and lever it on, using a suitable rod and some pieces of wood... :?
One other thought might be to immerse the bushes in hot water so as to soften them. They should expand quite nicely so you should be able to quickly push them on without too much trouble.
Ron.