The grille, headlights etc on that car Chris reminded me immediately of a Hillman Hunter. I can see the Rover sidelights, grille badge and hubcaps, but still they are very similar.
Ron.
Ron.
My mean green hornet
- Thread starter corazon
- Start date
Adam Birch
Member
chrisyork said:
Is it a straight 6 of some sort?
unstable load
Well-Known Member
2.5 liter 5 cylinder. One pot grafted on the 4 pot....
Adam Birch
Member
unstable load said:
or that one?
corazon
Well-Known Member
Back on track, thanks to Kevin Moonrover I've got my hands on an early aluminium steering column adjuster
Having wanted one for ages to compliment my ever changing interior, I'd only ever seen one in the flesh before on a car.
Here it is now after a little work :wink:
Jim
Having wanted one for ages to compliment my ever changing interior, I'd only ever seen one in the flesh before on a car.
Here it is now after a little work :wink:
Jim
GRTV8
Well-Known Member
Very impressed with all that shiny bling on your car .
I recall you are using Belgom Alu , Its not available over here [nz] other than through the interweb . There also appears to be two different pottles of the stuff , one's cheaper than the other . Is the cheapie a Chinese knock off ?
Best I can see that's available here , off the shelf is Mother's Aluminium polish . All the raves are from Mothers nutters . Bit like asking an almond owner whats the best colour for a P6.
Have you tried Mothers ? . Just before I go and blow $25 on a wee pot of what looks like my wifes night cream .
I use autosol for the stainless and chrome , and am very impressed with that stuff . Once again looks like a tube of toothpaste . I havnt tried toothpaste on aluminium !! Mmmm now there's a thought . I'll do a test patch and report back . I may be able to retire earlier by repackaging a tube of colgates .
Autosol doesnt do the business on aluminium , doesnt get that bling thing happening .
Whats your experience ?
God Im sounding like a cheap skate , but $20 is $20 > 1/4 a tank of gas . Cost me that to go to the auto shop and buy something thats already sitting in a tube in the bathroom !!
Gerald
I recall you are using Belgom Alu , Its not available over here [nz] other than through the interweb . There also appears to be two different pottles of the stuff , one's cheaper than the other . Is the cheapie a Chinese knock off ?
Best I can see that's available here , off the shelf is Mother's Aluminium polish . All the raves are from Mothers nutters . Bit like asking an almond owner whats the best colour for a P6.
Have you tried Mothers ? . Just before I go and blow $25 on a wee pot of what looks like my wifes night cream .
I use autosol for the stainless and chrome , and am very impressed with that stuff . Once again looks like a tube of toothpaste . I havnt tried toothpaste on aluminium !! Mmmm now there's a thought . I'll do a test patch and report back . I may be able to retire earlier by repackaging a tube of colgates .
Autosol doesnt do the business on aluminium , doesnt get that bling thing happening .
Whats your experience ?
God Im sounding like a cheap skate , but $20 is $20 > 1/4 a tank of gas . Cost me that to go to the auto shop and buy something thats already sitting in a tube in the bathroom !!
Gerald
If Jim will permit me one more post to disrupt his thread...? The car on the previous page, DXC 11 B, is a second series P7. If you look carefully you can actually see the join where the wings and bonnet have been extended.
Whilst the first series of P7 were genuine prototypes, in that they were intended to make it to production, the second series were not. My best guess is that the construction of the cars had already been authorised, but that the V8 had hoved into view (it was found in a boat yard!) but had not yet been secured for Rover production. So there was a little bit of confusion in the P7 programme. Certainly the V8 had been obtained and the P7 programme cancelled by the time the last of the three second series cars had been registered.
This car is the second in the series. The first was DXC 11 A and the third DXC 11 C. So we can assume that the year suffix has little meaning here. For the series as a whole, the cars as built used respectively, one P6 style 3ltr straight six, one overhead inlet side exhaust P5 3 ltr straight six and one Buick V8. All were fairly quickly converted to run on Buicks (not Rovers!). The car's subsequent history was as test mules to try out various ideas that engineering had prior to having to do all the development on true prototypes. So this car had double wishbone front suspension very similar to that subsequently used on P8. The third car had the forward facing de dion tube also later seen on P8.
So the answer to the question of what engine? A P5 3ltr straight six. And there's a rather odd and off line bulge in the bonnet to prove it!
Chris
Whilst the first series of P7 were genuine prototypes, in that they were intended to make it to production, the second series were not. My best guess is that the construction of the cars had already been authorised, but that the V8 had hoved into view (it was found in a boat yard!) but had not yet been secured for Rover production. So there was a little bit of confusion in the P7 programme. Certainly the V8 had been obtained and the P7 programme cancelled by the time the last of the three second series cars had been registered.
This car is the second in the series. The first was DXC 11 A and the third DXC 11 C. So we can assume that the year suffix has little meaning here. For the series as a whole, the cars as built used respectively, one P6 style 3ltr straight six, one overhead inlet side exhaust P5 3 ltr straight six and one Buick V8. All were fairly quickly converted to run on Buicks (not Rovers!). The car's subsequent history was as test mules to try out various ideas that engineering had prior to having to do all the development on true prototypes. So this car had double wishbone front suspension very similar to that subsequently used on P8. The third car had the forward facing de dion tube also later seen on P8.
So the answer to the question of what engine? A P5 3ltr straight six. And there's a rather odd and off line bulge in the bonnet to prove it!
Chris
corazon
Well-Known Member
No worries Chris
Gerald, I can only get Belgom online to be honest. I think they're German..
I have heard good things about Briliant and Zeppelin polishes, don't know if they'd be easier or harder to get hold of there?
Belgom is really the very final step I use mainly to protect the finish I get from buffing. It does however work very well as a fine polish in the more you work it, the brighter the result. You can do multiple passes and it will just get better and better
Jim
Gerald, I can only get Belgom online to be honest. I think they're German..
I have heard good things about Briliant and Zeppelin polishes, don't know if they'd be easier or harder to get hold of there?
Belgom is really the very final step I use mainly to protect the finish I get from buffing. It does however work very well as a fine polish in the more you work it, the brighter the result. You can do multiple passes and it will just get better and better
Jim
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Quite probably correct there, Harvey. I used the 4+1 as a quantifier rather than a precise "howdunnit"harveyp6 said:
corazon
Well-Known Member
Got the B&M shifter in the post this morning.
Here's the face plate mocked up, I'll probably have no centre console, just neat new one piece carpet keeping it simple..but that might change
The shaft is a little longer than factory with a chrome ball top which I'll make a Rover badge to fit. The shifter is a switchable 3/4 speed and comes with two different illuminated indicator strips. I will of course be using the 123DNRP with my hybrid zf4hp22/24 box when finished.
First feelings about the actual shifter mechanism are it's very sturdy as expected. Cant wait to fit it and get the real feel for it!
Yes that is water in the drivers footwell, I still haven't sorted the heater intake rubber!
Jim
Here's the face plate mocked up, I'll probably have no centre console, just neat new one piece carpet keeping it simple..but that might change
The shaft is a little longer than factory with a chrome ball top which I'll make a Rover badge to fit. The shifter is a switchable 3/4 speed and comes with two different illuminated indicator strips. I will of course be using the 123DNRP with my hybrid zf4hp22/24 box when finished.
First feelings about the actual shifter mechanism are it's very sturdy as expected. Cant wait to fit it and get the real feel for it!
Yes that is water in the drivers footwell, I still haven't sorted the heater intake rubber!
Jim
Hi Jim,
If you eventually do go down the 4.6 path, I can honestly say without reservation that you won't need to ever manually pull the transmission back into second. It is not like driving with the 3.5, if you wish to overtake a car on the highway that is already doing 60mph, then depressing the pedal by just a few mm more will see you pulling at least 85mph by the time you have come past. Knowing from first hand experience what an enormous difference it has made, you'll probably break something within the diff or elsewhere if you manually shift gears at speed.
Ron.
If you eventually do go down the 4.6 path, I can honestly say without reservation that you won't need to ever manually pull the transmission back into second. It is not like driving with the 3.5, if you wish to overtake a car on the highway that is already doing 60mph, then depressing the pedal by just a few mm more will see you pulling at least 85mph by the time you have come past. Knowing from first hand experience what an enormous difference it has made, you'll probably break something within the diff or elsewhere if you manually shift gears at speed.
Ron.
corazon
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your insight Ron.
I think if I do go as far as the 4.6 I'll do the jag diff swap to. I personally don't like that the engine could easily break any part the drive train if not driven in a particular way. Most of the time I do drive in a very relaxed cruising manner, but occasionally I like to have a little more excitement.
From what I've seen/heard of your car I can see your point about not needing to kickdown, but manually shifting from rest up through the gears would be when it sees the most use.
Of course it's also for show, and will hopefully enable simpler setting up with the 4 speed box
Jim
I think if I do go as far as the 4.6 I'll do the jag diff swap to. I personally don't like that the engine could easily break any part the drive train if not driven in a particular way. Most of the time I do drive in a very relaxed cruising manner, but occasionally I like to have a little more excitement.
From what I've seen/heard of your car I can see your point about not needing to kickdown, but manually shifting from rest up through the gears would be when it sees the most use.
Of course it's also for show, and will hopefully enable simpler setting up with the 4 speed box
Jim
corazon
Well-Known Member
The threat of the storm spurred everyone into action here and subsequently I got my car tucked back up in the workshop after a year outside
Eagle eyed of you will notice the rear lights aren't matching..Recently I bought a rear red indicator lens from the states and am expecting the other from Andries any day now.
I will be using amber led cluster bulbs and flasher unit as per Lucky's lights..
Steering wheel progress has come to a halt while I find someone with a lathe to turn down a morse taper for me..anyone?
Alternatively I've found an adaptor for £20 which means I could use any suitable 3 morse taper bits in my drill press.
Here's my two ZF boxes which will over the next month hopefully become one
Which will be controlled by this B&M quicksilver shifter, custom mounted flush to the tunnel.
Here it is just plonked down for a vague mock up
If all goes to plan I may have a jag 4ha diff in the coming week too, this will when the time comes be used with a 4.6 engine..that could be sooner or later, not sure at this stage.
I'm also thinking about the idea of hooded dials in the dash, replacing the one piece perspex with single discs and probably retaining the stock layout..upholstering between dials etc etc
Jim
Eagle eyed of you will notice the rear lights aren't matching..Recently I bought a rear red indicator lens from the states and am expecting the other from Andries any day now.
I will be using amber led cluster bulbs and flasher unit as per Lucky's lights..
Steering wheel progress has come to a halt while I find someone with a lathe to turn down a morse taper for me..anyone?
Alternatively I've found an adaptor for £20 which means I could use any suitable 3 morse taper bits in my drill press.
Here's my two ZF boxes which will over the next month hopefully become one
Which will be controlled by this B&M quicksilver shifter, custom mounted flush to the tunnel.
Here it is just plonked down for a vague mock up
If all goes to plan I may have a jag 4ha diff in the coming week too, this will when the time comes be used with a 4.6 engine..that could be sooner or later, not sure at this stage.
I'm also thinking about the idea of hooded dials in the dash, replacing the one piece perspex with single discs and probably retaining the stock layout..upholstering between dials etc etc
Jim
Interesting idea on the dials. I've seen the black areas between the dials treated with various vinyls including wood (Gareth?). I've always wanted to broadly replicate the Talago dash as best seen on T4 at Gaydon, only with three nacelles instead of 2. Aiming to use P5B speedo, rev counter and multifunction dials. Key step being to lose the top shroud to the dash. I think that would look a bit Alfa Romeo. With the ZF box you're going to be having an adjustable speedo drive anyway, so you could use pretty well anything you wanted.
Chris
Chris
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corazon
Well-Known Member
That's looks great Chris, but too European for my car.
I want to keep the main dash top, perhaps extending it closer to the wheel on the driverside to house the hooded gauges.
This is about as close as I can find to what I'm planning, but probably with deeper set dials like the second photo (corvette). Upholstered around and between in the same colour as the rest of the dash.
I also now have fully red rear lamps, for which I still need to buy led bulbs and flasher unit.
Jim
I want to keep the main dash top, perhaps extending it closer to the wheel on the driverside to house the hooded gauges.
This is about as close as I can find to what I'm planning, but probably with deeper set dials like the second photo (corvette). Upholstered around and between in the same colour as the rest of the dash.
I also now have fully red rear lamps, for which I still need to buy led bulbs and flasher unit.
Jim
corazon
Well-Known Member
I've been working hard Brenten!
That, and everything was acquired at bargain £s :wink:
The trouble was, once the plan was formed it was too exciting not to look for everything..then its hard to pass up a bargain when it presents itself
So far if everything goes to plan, the engine, gearbox(es)/B&M shifter, and diff including new seals, gaskets etc will still come in under £1000.
The engine will be treated to top hat liners at some stage in the future when funds allow/if it needs doing! but for now I'm going to swap the inlet/carbs/front cover etc as per Ron's conversion, fit my stainless headers and get it all running together
The car doesn't do many miles a year so with any luck, the engine in it's newly cooler running, less stressed application will be fine for some time.
Jim
That, and everything was acquired at bargain £s :wink:
The trouble was, once the plan was formed it was too exciting not to look for everything..then its hard to pass up a bargain when it presents itself
So far if everything goes to plan, the engine, gearbox(es)/B&M shifter, and diff including new seals, gaskets etc will still come in under £1000.
The engine will be treated to top hat liners at some stage in the future when funds allow/if it needs doing! but for now I'm going to swap the inlet/carbs/front cover etc as per Ron's conversion, fit my stainless headers and get it all running together
The car doesn't do many miles a year so with any luck, the engine in it's newly cooler running, less stressed application will be fine for some time.
Jim