My Rover

Interesting.

So knowing fairly little about the front end setup, how do you take the dampner/shock out? remove split pins and pull the outer bush out and then take the shock out?

Also, have you got a close up of your door mirror Ron? I'm determined to get something better fitted on my car since I'm using it daily now.
 
Hi Geoff,

With the nyloc nut and washer removed and the split pin out of the way, lift the swivel pillar with a suitable jack so as to take the load off the shock absorber. You can wriggle it till it works free or use a lever like a crow bar to give it a helping hand. Won't damage anything and it comes off much quicker... :wink:

Here is my mirror....
P4060045.jpg


Mirrors on local Rovers all seem to be different. I can't ever recall seeing two that were the same.

Ron.
 
DaveHerns wrote,...
Never re-use a split pin - they don't like being bent twice

Depends on the split pin Dave, how it is treated and whether or not it is corroded,..which mine aren't.... :wink:

Ron.
 
When I re rubbered the front shocks a few days ago, I also checked and adjusted the front wheel bearings.

P7020220.jpg


P7020221.jpg

Remove the hub cap, withdraw the split pin and the castellated locking cap.

P7020222.jpg

Adjust the hub nut to achieve the desired play. Re fit the castellated cap noting that the castellations are not equidistant, so one is selected that will largely prevent the hub nut from working loose if ever so slightly. Fit a new split pin. Dave Herns rightly pulled me up for not fitting a new split pin to the O/S shock absorber. Whenever possible, always fit a new split pin. Apply additional grease into the hub and within the cap, thence refit the cap.

Ron.
 
The next task in preventative maintenance was the replacement of the original 1974 engine based plastic fuel lines and a 2007 fitted AC fuel filter. The plastic fuel lines had carried over from the original 3.5 to my 4.6. Close inspection with a bright light or when illuminated by the sun showed fatigue cracks in the lines where they fit over the barbs. The cracks could also be felt by running a finger nail over them.

P7070229.jpg


I removed the AC fuel filter which had been there for a few miles short of 50,000 and along with an Australian made Ryco filter fitted an OEM set of fuel lines that I had purchased 21 years ago.
As I run two fuel filters with the engine filter being the secondary unit, the distance / time between replacement is extended.

P7070226.jpg

New lines and Ryco filter fitted.

Ron.
 
Good skills as always Ron. Did you renew the lines to the tank aswell or just within the engine bay?
 
Hi Ron . Nice engine room , i like to see that . Think you need some maintenance on that oily old pointy finger though !
stina
 
testrider wrote,...
Good skills as always Ron. Did you renew the lines to the tank aswell or just within the engine bay?

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the kind remarks.. :) So far just within the engine bay. From previous inspections the line beneath the car all appear to be in good order. Their environment is not nearly as hostile as that of the engine bay with the constant heat cycles, so it is good to see that the engine lines lasted as long and as well as they did. The material from which they were made must really be top stuff!

stina wrote,...
Hi Ron . Nice engine room , i like to see that . Think you need some maintenance on that oily old pointy finger though !

Hi Stina,

Thanks for your kind remarks too... :) As for my hands,..they have it easy when working or out cycling, but cold weather, Rover maintenance, petrol, lots of gardening, etc make life hard for them. To think that less than 10 years ago I was still in my 30s.. :roll:

IAmTheResurrection wrote,...
4.6 with carbs?! I thought they stopped making carburettor V8s when the 3.5 Range Rover was replaced by the 3.9 back in the 80s...

Hi IATR,

The 3.5 Range Rover had fuel injection before the 3.9 was introduced, while the 3.5 Land Rover Defender retained carburettors for some while longer. As for my 4.6, they never came from the factory with carburettors. My engine was a custom build and a one off.

Ron.
 
hands

You need some Aloe Vera Ron...

In more masculine news, I notice that you were in the latest rover car club magazine with your write up on oil pumps and filters?

What did you end up doing with your old 3.5 litre block?
 
ewokracing wrote,...
I notice that you were in the latest rover car club magazine with your write up on oil pumps and filters?

What did you end up doing with your old 3.5 litre block?

I wrote an article that appeared in the NSW Rover Owner's Club magazine a year or so ago on that subject. Which Rover magazine are you referring to Geoff?
My old block went to the recyclers along with all the other bits. I kept the high tensile bolts though.

Ron.
 
You'd better give us the run down on your engine build Ron, or point me to a thread where you've typed it all out before. I'm especially interested in the bit where your old carbs and manifold were fitted to the new engine.
 
Hello Warren,

The engine has been built and configured as a Range Rover engine, so torque takes precedence over outright power, but having said that the engine delivers in the order of 155kW (210hp) with 142hp finding its way to the rear wheels.

Rover or rather Land Rover (all Rover V8 engines since 1972 were built by Land Rover, including those engines fitted into Rover cars) kept the major external points unchanged, so even though the cylinder block for my 4.6 litre engine was cast sometime after the year 2000, it still contained the necessary points within the cast to affix the power steering mounting bracket within my P6B engine bay. Rover (Land Rover) had purposely made all blocks backwards compatible, so a block cast in 2004, the final year of factory V8 block production, will happily sit in the engine bay of a Rover P5B made in 1967!

My engine runs an SD1 timing cover with a P6B water pump, both for meeting the necessary clearance issue but more importantly keeping all the pulleys in the same plane. The timing cover was suitably modified as I wished to retain the AC mechanical fuel pump. The engine is fitted with my original P6B sump in order fit around the front crossmember and the P6B oil pick up is also retained. The front portion of the sump is relieved in order to allow for the increased swing of the 4.6 crankshaft.

The camshaft is a custom made high torque highway configuration designed by Wayne Jones of Wayne Jones Racing Engines. As the factory 4.6 litre engines run with a crankshaft driven oil pump and no distributor, there is of course no nose on the camshaft for fitment of the gear to drive the distributor and in turn the oil pump, so my camshaft utilises a 3.5/3.9/4.2 billet onto which the 4.6 profile is ground. In this way there is provision for driving the distributor/oil pump and running the eccentric for driving the mechanical fuel pump.

A J & P Performance double row true roller timing set with multi key way positioning is used both for increased longevity, stable timing and for running the camshaft 2 degrees advanced.

The OEM Rover 180 degree dual plane low rise inlet manifold fits perfectly onto the 4.6 block decked out with a pair of 10 bolt Rover heads as the critical points in terms of fitment never changed. Porting the runners to match the inlets on the heads was an option that would yield a benefit only above 4000rpm, so I chose not to. I rebuilt the SU carburettors prior to the engine change including replacing the original butterflies as these came with poppet valves. The floats were replaced and the levels increased to 60 thou so as to ensure maximum fuel capacity. This will also see a richer mixture as the level is higher within the jets all things being equal.

During the major tune at 2500 miles, the BBW needles which I had fitted the day before along with the K & N filters and large inlet air box, required polishing as although close they still proved to be too lean. Testing was carried out on a rolling road until the correct outcome was achieved. A Rover V8 produces maximum power for acceleration when the fuel/air ratio across the board is 12.5 : 1, and this is what was being sought and ultimately plus or minus 0.1 what was achieved.

Ron
 
That sounds a very sensible spec Ron. Only query, you mentioned "large inlet airbox". I had a quick shifty and the one I found pictures for looks pretty standard, am I missing someething?

Chris
 
That is a very good account, Ron. Thanks for taking the time to type it up. I'm quietly storing away ideas for the future, you see. Although my high-compression 3.5 seems to be in great condition, it may become prudent to one day upgrade it.
 
chrisyork wrote,...
you mentioned "large inlet airbox".

Hello Chris,

There are pics above of both the standard P6B airbox on my original 3.5 and the large inlet airbox on my 4.6. The former is far too small for the bigger engine as it will draw 30% plus more air.

Hello Warren,

Glad to help.. :) Another 4.6 with a different camshaft, exhaust etc would require an equal investment in time and components to get it right, as each will be specific.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron

I think I see it now - page 1? So where did that airbox come from? SD1, Range Rover? The net effect looks like you and I have finished up with virtually identical intake systems - great minds and all that :D Mind you, yours is an awful lot shinier! I was brought up in the G J Churchward school of engineering - doesn't matter what it looks like as long as it works perfectly. He was once famously quoted as saying that, left to him, he'd have painted his railway carriages with tar!

Chris
 
Hi Chris,

Yes it is there on page 1. From some basic calculations I knew that the P6B airbox was going to far too restrictive for the 4.6, so I started to look at options. To see what was about I went to a business that has since closed..British Auto Parts in the Sydney suburb of Punchbowl. This was around April or May 2007. They were pretty well the last large scale Rover wrecker in Sydney and luckily for me when I asked to see a selection of airboxes, the one in the pic was shown to me. Filthy and with large foam air filters that crumbled on touch inside, I quickly purchased it as I knew it was exactly what I was after.

I am pretty sure that it was off an early SU equipped SD1. The reason that the air intake is so large was down to the snorkel arrangement that attached onto the front of it. Like trying to run while breathing through a straw, so it needed to be as large as possible to offset the huge breathing impediment attached to it. What was even more amazing was that the SD1's that came with SU carburettors and these airboxes were never officially imported into Australia. The SU equipped Rover V8 engines no longer met the emission requirements that came into affect in the late 1970s, so both SD1's, Land and Range Rovers all came with Zenith Stromberg carburettors, and the former had two rectangular air boxes, one on each carburettor. So the airbox that I obtained had come off a privately imported SD1, talk about a stroke of luck.. :D

Ron.
 
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