My Rover

Hmmm trains. Be a good idea to move this to a new thread, so I'll start one now over in the lounge.

Ron.

* Edit - Moved Train discussion to train thread! Rich in moderation mode :)
 
Great pictures of a most attractive car: with the bigger displacement motor did you fit a bigger radiator?

GW
 
Thanks GW :D

To answer your question, the radiator is a 3 core which is the same size that I had been running since the mid 1990s. I did however cut down the number plate retaining bracket thus allowing more air to enter the radiator. In addition there is an engine oil cooler and a substantial transmission oil cooler which both contribute to efficiency. Ignition timing is also far more efficient so there is less heat build up while in traffic etc. The cooling system also maintains the level to where it has been set which is in contrast to my original 3.5 which like the vast majority so it seems have a propensity to purge coolant on a regular basis.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Thanks GW :D

To answer your question, the radiator is a 3 core which is the same size that I had been running since the mid 1990s. I did however cut down the number plate retaining bracket thus allowing more air to enter the radiator. In addition there is an engine oil cooler and a substantial transmission oil cooler which both contribute to efficiency. Ignition timing is also far more efficient so there is less heat build up while in traffic etc. The cooling system also maintains the level to where it has been set which is in contrast to my original 3.5 which like the vast majority so it seems have a propensity to purge coolant on a regular basis.

Ron.
Click to expand...

Regarding that coolant purge thing, my dad customised his old 3500S with some suitably strong tubing from the radiator cap (I think) up into what had been an Austin 1100 header tank. It looked like it had always been like that and cured the coolant problem. Could be worth considering for anyone who's got that problem!
 
Hi Ron, you mentioned the timing is more efficient now, is that because distributor and drive are new and unworn or because of the electronics inside?
 
Hello Paul,

With regards to the ignition timing, the increased efficiency is twofold. My original 3.5 had the initial timing set to TDC @ 600 rpm which is very inefficient even with Lumenition replacing the points in 1991. The result is both an increase in fuel consumption and in running temperature as the timing at all points is much less than optimum. The distributor on my 4.6 was an NOS Lucas 35D8 that I purchased in 1990. It was regraphed to work with the new engine, so the rate and total advance match the characteristics of the engine. This means I run 12 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpm of initial timing with 28 degrees of advance at 2600rpm. So fuel consumption is improved along with a reduction in running temperature, which is especially noticable when in traffic during hot weather.

I have a wobbly drive on this distributor to drive the oil pump along with Lumenition inside.

Ron.
 
Hi Paul,

Yes a reduction in compression does indeed mean that it is possible to run more timing, and that is certainly an advantage. The ideal initial timing for any 3.5 is 14 to 16 degrees @ 600 rpm with 36 degrees of total mechanical advance. For any 4.6 it is 10 to 12 degrees of initial at 600rpm with 28 degrees of total mechanical advance. The more efficient an engine, the less total timing that is required to produce maximum power and torque.

Ron.
 
About two years ago I started fitting some covers over the grille so as to reduce the amount of air flowing through the radiator. I use it during Winter so as to expediate the warm up process, by that I mean 82 degrees C when the thermostat opens. It only takes a couple of miles at most until the stat opens although the engine oil takes a while longer which is always the case. Today, Wed Sept 14, 2011 the ambient temperature reached 24.5 degrees C according to thermometer in the Rover, and only two weeks into Spring too... :) The covers don't present a problem in temps like today although I won't be leaving them on for much longer. On a run this afternoon at 60 to 70 mph (100 to 110kph), coolant temp was 85 degrees C or so,..the needle resting over the '8' while engine oil temp was 95 degrees C.

P9140049.jpg


P9140055.jpg

Basking in the warm afternoon sunlight.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron

Terrific pics as ever. I do like the P6 on 14" Rostyles. One thing that did occour to me - have you considered having new rims on your existing Rostyle centres? Since the two are rivetted together it ought to be possible to achieve the offset and rim width you desire. In the UK I can get this sort of work done at will for lorry wheels, although I've never tried it for car wheels.

As regards engine timing. I'm not sure you have completely explained the criteria involved in setting the firing point. The first is to avoid pre ignition ie firing so as to generate a significant cylinder pressure before TDC. This is usually heard as pinking. This point varies from engine to engine and according to fuelling system - in essence it depends on the speed of the flame front immediately adjacent to the spark plug, which in turn is determined by how rich the mixture is and how much compression there is in this area. These measures are not necessarily homogenous across the chamber volume and are heavily influenced by the degree of swirl in the chamber, proximity of valves, valve timing etc etc.

Having avoided pre-ignition the next criteria is to fire the plug at the point which will generate peak cylider pressure at the most advantageous point in the stroke by mechanical advantage. This point varies according to the stroke of the engine and the length of con rod. A tall long stroke engine might have this point rather higher up the bore and so stand a more advanced spark. Peak pressure itself will be generated at different times according to how quickly the flame front advances through the combustion chamber. Once again this is influenced by swirl, mixing, hot points such as valves etc.

So the factors influencing the ideal timing point are extremely complex and compression ratio is only one factor of many.

That's why rolling road set up is really essential once you depart in any way from standard factory set up.

Chris
 
Hi Chris,

Many thanks.. :)

I must admit that I had not considered having my Rostyles fitted with new rims. No doubt it would be possible, but I would really prefer to keep them as they are. If I had a second pair, then I could go down that track but Rostyles in Australia, especially the P6 14" variety are almost non existant. The set on my Rover are the only ones I can ever recall seeing out here.

Ron.
 
I have removed my n/s doors along with the rear guard so as to allow them to be repainted. In the meantime I have fitted some spares that I removed from a 1972 P6B that a friend and I dismantled.

P4190115.jpg


Ron.
 
I always strikes me how completely you can change the appearance of the p6 just by bolting on new panels :)
 
Hi Ron.
Just a quick question if you dont mind.
I notice your car has all the hallmarks of a daily driver that does some fairly substantial miles.
last week, i paid $1.70 for Shell VPower...how on earth do you manage the fuel bill?
 
P6 can achieve good MPG if you tune it up to be a bit lean, modify your driving style and you get very comparable results to smaller more modern cars, after all the p6 V8 weighs only 1300kg the same as a mid saloon. Ron from memory has had upto 30 mpg out of his demonstrating that it is quiet fuel efficient even as a 4.6 litre engined car.

Graeme
 
Hi Brenten,

Graeme is on the money, and yes just over 30mpg for a 4.6 litre V8 running with carburettors is pretty darn good. I paid the same in Sydney for V Power on Friday, but on Monday BP Ultimate was 15cpl cheaper!

Ron.
 
Just for comparison Shell Vpower in the UK is about £1.40 per litre which I think is about $2.14AUS.

The trick is knowing when to go steady with the throttle to save fuel for later. :D
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
just over 30mpg for a 4.6 litre V8 running with carburettors is pretty darn good
Click to expand...

Darn right that's good!
My little Alfa 16v gets that...although it does get a pedaling.
All the same, that is a remarkable figure.
Are you just "tickling" the throttle though?
You know...so millimetre precise that you are virtually constant trailing throttle?
I once had an Alfa 164Q that cost me a kings ransom in fuel...I didnt hammer it, but liked to give it a little pedal now and then...in the end i just babied it and still couldn't get better than around 14 litres per 100km.

Whilst I certainly dont want to pedal the Rover, its fun to "squeeze" into the throttle of a V8 at times... (Im sure you know that...)
 
testrider said:
The trick is knowing when to go steady with the throttle to save fuel for later. :D
Click to expand...

By the time I get to the "time to go steady" stage it's usually too late and the next fuel station beckons.... :LOL:

Ron I bet you've had a few interesting comments and looks as you drive down the roads.

Dave
 
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