It worked previously ........In my 'umble too, I still think it's a bit of clutch drag.
I am going to look a bit daft if it turns out to be synchros
when I managed to get it into first gear I could not select 2nd gear or any other gear with the clutch pedal down, didn't want to try it.
You may have put it back in already but if not I would try the clutch on the splines first just to make sure it slides in and out okHi All, Just to add when I managed to get it into first gear I could not select 2nd gear or any other gear with the clutch pedal down, didn't want to try it. I may pop just the box back on & bleed the system through & see it I can engage gears, wont fit prop shaft or exhaust etc, should only take an hour, least I check to see if any difference, thanks for all your input though much appreciated , will let you know how I get on!
Have you tried it on the actual box splines or just your old input shaft, wasn't sure by what you said.Hi Guys, Rich that is a great explanation, thank you I didn't put any form of lube on the splines or spigot bush which wouldn't have helped!
If for some reason there was causing clutch drag then this would explain why the final say 10mm was so hard to get mated when I fitted the block back in if something whoever small was misaligned. Haven't put it back in yet Stu but the clutch plate does fit over the input shaft splines nice & snug with no resistance in movement so to speak. I think also I needed to bleed it fully too,
I have video on my phone which shows slight movement in the centre of the clutch plate when I fit an old input shat into it, it does twist slight but no rotational movement, how do I upload it to show ? cheers
Think he used an old shaft to align.Did you center the clutch when you mounted it to the flywheel? I bought a special black plastic tool with splines off ebay to do that.
Ditto. I have been slowly getting ready to do the same - grins sheepishly -@mikecoombs I had no idea it needed to be filled with oil, and therefore fitted mine dry. – rolls eyes –