Occie gets her rear end up!

vaultsman

vaultsman

Well-Known Member
Driving back at the weekend from a short break away...with what sounded grimly like metal to metal where it should be pad to disc. :(

Had a look under and sure enough...some scoring on the inner face of the rear N/S disc.

Well I was planning on a rear-end makeover this winter anyway, but like quattro...just starting a bit earlier than planned! :wink:

As well as the rear caliper rebuilds, the provisional plan is:

New dampers

Replace halfshaft UJ's

Fit a fine pair of elbows I've acquired

Check springs & replace if necessary

Check all bushes & ditto if necessary

Check the DD tube & refurb if necessary

and no doubt a couple of other bits along the way.... :roll:

===========

Made a start this evening...

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The impact driver's one of the best bits of kit I've bought...halfshaft-to-diff bolts out in a twinkling. Got it from >Amazon< a couple of years ago.

OK, it's Rolson. But its 24V...and using it only now and again...no problem at all. And for that money, its a snip.
 
Stan

Was that hub to de-dion elbow bolt always missing or was that a tester to see how easy they'd be to get out? :D

None of it looks too bad at all. The elbows look ok too, any sign of cracks?

A manual impact driver has got me out of a lot of potentially knuckle breaking situations many times. There's not always a lot of room to swing the hammer at it though so I might just have me a look at one of those cordless ones 8)

Dave
 
Looks very sound under there, shouldn't be any problems with the lurking tin worm by the general look of it.

Interesting power tool that - so it's an electric impact driver? I lost knuckle skin and tissue getting those hub to elbow bolts out :evil:

Best of luck with it

Richard
 
Having always used an air impact driver, I never rated the new style battery ones, but only because I assumed they just wouldn't be up to the job. However, I've heard so much good stuff about them, I've been forced to change my opinion of late. I think Practically Carsick magazine did a test of a few of them recently, and I've also had a few friends say how good they are too.

Your de dion elbows don't look half bad.. You may find they'll clean up nicely. 8)
 
In Aus the latest rage seems to be a set with a battery drill and impact driver. Bosch do a good pair with decent batteries and they're made in Europe (not bloody China).

watching this thread with interest!
 
Dave3066 said:
Stan

Was that hub to de-dion elbow bolt always missing or was that a tester to see how easy they'd be to get out? :D

None of it looks too bad at all. The elbows look ok too, any sign of cracks?

A manual impact driver has got me out of a lot of potentially knuckle breaking situations many times. There's not always a lot of room to swing the hammer at it though so I might just have me a look at one of those cordless ones 8)

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

Yes, it was just a tester! They came out pretty well, but having done them before I'd say it's wise to use a 6-point socket on the nylocs...I seriously didn't want them rounding off! When I stripped the halfshafts from Rebekah, I had to resort to a thin cutting disc on a couple of the setscrews.

The elbows are in good shape, but I'll swap them for a mint pair I had from Nick Dunning (cheers Nick! :)) and then use Occie's to replace the crusty ones on Rebekah.

quattro said:
Interesting power tool that - so it's an electric impact driver? I lost knuckle skin and tissue getting those hub to elbow bolts out :evil:

Best of luck with it

Richard
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a good bit of kit, although I only used it this time on the halfshaft-to-diff bolts. I think you need to feel what's happening a bit more with the hub-to-elbow nylocs, so it was a good old ratchet/socket/spanner job on them.
 
Assuming that you will be removing the elbows and Dedion next, watch out for the 1/4" bolts that hold the tube to the elbows. Mine were in a right state and one or two sheared. Though, maybe your impact driver will help get them off without shearing? I tried getting mine off with a manual impact driver but some still sheared :( .

I have been eyeing up these impact drivers for while but had been put off by the high prices some go for and thought I wouldn't use it very much. They seem to be a bit cheaper now, so I might just have to get one. Maybe even put it on the XMAS list (along with Ferrari, Aston Martin Bentley etc. :D ). Apart from the obvious impact thing being useful, I guess they save you a bit of time unscrewing/screwing bolts.
 
Between work and other, more pleasurable, things I didn't have much time last night but got the O/S halfshaft and both springs out...

...BUT!...

...the N/S lower arm-to-elbow bolt is refusing to come out, or even turn. And no, not even with the impact wrench! Or a 2 foot breaker bar after I'd got some heat on the b****r. The nut's off OK but if the bolt were welded in to the bush/elbow it couldn't be more reluctant to turn/slide.

Ran out of time at that point, but if it won't shift this evening I'll get the lower arm/elbow under the press.

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Those lower bushes do rust rather badly. These are the inner tube from Sparky's and you can see how they have eroded away. What you can't see is how they expanded and destroyed the rubber part of the bush. If yours are as bad, they can rust themselves solid and will be very difficult to remove.

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I hit them with a very large persuasion implement :shock:

Richard
 
Could maybe remove the N/S lower arm and elbow as one piece - this might give you better access for persuading the bolt out? If the rubber part of the bush is moving about, it is hard to get much torque or force applied. When I recently disconnecetd my lower arms the bolts came out quite easily. Though, I have had similar problems to yours on other cars but they usually come out in the end with plenty heat/WD40/persuasion and dogged determination :) .

Anyway, what could be more pleasant that getting you hands mucky tinkering about with your P6 :? .
 
JVY said:
Could maybe remove the N/S lower arm and elbow as one piece - this might give you better access for persuading the bolt out? If the rubber part of the bush is moving about, it is hard to get much torque or force applied. When I recently disconnecetd my lower arms the bolts came out quite easily. Though, I have had similar problems to yours on other cars but they usually come out in the end with plenty heat/WD40/persuasion and dogged determination :) .

Anyway, what could be more pleasant that getting you hands mucky tinkering about with your P6 :? .
Click to expand...

Nothing pleasanter indeed...well, maybe a couple of things spring to mind.... :wink:

Yep, like I said...another go this eve and if not it's the arm/elbow combo on the press at work.

So if the blighter knew what was ahead...it'd give up now.
 
If you are attacking that bottom bracket area, just make sure you support it properly, they can bend quite easily, and it only takes a few bend/straightens and you've got a stress fracture.
 
If all else fails saw the bolt through on both sides between the elbow and the arm. Time consuming, but avoids damaging anything, and it shouldn't be too much of a problem to get another bolt.
 
webmaster said:
If you are attacking that bottom bracket area, just make sure you support it properly, they can bend quite easily, and it only takes a few bend/straightens and you've got a stress fracture.
Click to expand...

Thanks Richard. Yes, I was alive to that - with a close-ish fitting collar over the points of the hex head I'm sure the steel inner bush would give enough support when pressing.

harveyp6 said:
If all else fails saw the bolt through on both sides between the elbow and the arm. Time consuming, but avoids damaging anything, and it shouldn't be too much of a problem to get another bolt.
Click to expand...

Yep, that'd work...but...

The b****r did give up in the end! :D

Took the lower arm off...
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...and after 4 heating/cooling cycles plus liberal Plus Gas, this is what a persuasive implement of the club species did to the nyloc...
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...but with torque and thumping at the same time, eventually...
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No more time this evening...got a date with a glass or three of Marston's.

Thanks for the advice all! :)
 
Nice work there Stan! Good to see the elbows are in good nick. I didn't have the same issue seperating the elbow and arm on mine, the car did all the work for me, at just under 50mph :shock: . For anyone that hasn't had the same pleasure see below. When I bought replacements they didn't look as good as I'd hoped, so they are due to be replaced again soon with a set I've had significantly strengthened. On the subject of the UJs, I'm pretty sure mine were replaced with transit parts at some point :? .

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Regards,
Dave
 
:) Well done Stan, you've earned your Marstons. Nice stuff that Martsons, haven't had a pint of that in ages.
 
dmcsweeney said:
Nice work there Stan! Good to see the elbows are in good nick. I didn't have the same issue seperating the elbow and arm on mine, the car did all the work for me, at just under 50mph :shock: . For anyone that hasn't had the same pleasure see below. When I bought replacements they didn't look as good as I'd hoped, so they are due to be replaced again soon with a set I've had significantly strengthened. On the subject of the UJs, I'm pretty sure mine were replaced with transit parts at some point :? .

Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

50 mph! :shock: Not a brown-trouser moment to forget in a hurry I'll wager. Since I first heard about elbows and arms parting company unexpectedly, I've been a bit paranoid about it and have regularly had my head under Occie's bum.

Re the UJ's...

The Quinton Hazell catalogue lists QL 16204 as the UJ for the P6 propshaft, and also for the 1977-1/78 Transit 130-190 front & centre propshaft UJ's. Also for the front UJ on Sherpa 285, 310, & 350 183-1989. And for quite a few Jags and Volvos.

The P6 halfshaft UJ's (QL 19245) are also listed for the Jensen Interceptor propshaft - amongst other things.

FRA 377L looking superb by the way!

Cheers mate,
 
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