Rubythursday
Member
I'd put my money on the pressure sensor. Be aware that there are a few variants, the pressure range is stamped on the top of the sensor.
Oil Pressure again
- Thread starter quattro
- Start date
I do think that the pressure gauge sender will be at fault, but I am finding it difficult to ignore this.
I have started it from cold today and the resistance of the sender was 28.1 with ignition on, 14 on tick over then steadily increased to 21 when I raised the revs.
It should have decreased, not increased, so that puts the fault at either the sender, or there is a pressure problem.
I will just have to wait for the capillary gauge.
Richard
I have started it from cold today and the resistance of the sender was 28.1 with ignition on, 14 on tick over then steadily increased to 21 when I raised the revs.
It should have decreased, not increased, so that puts the fault at either the sender, or there is a pressure problem.
I will just have to wait for the capillary gauge.
Richard
Gauge is here and connected up.
So at 3,000rpm on a not fully heated up engine, it reads 60 PSI - hmmm that now seems a bit high, I will have to have a look at the pressure relief spring when I am down there taking the gauge off. Tickover is 30PSI, and 2,000rpm when the car gauge reads around 5PSI the capillary gauge shows a healthy 45PSI
The good bit though, is that it actually increases with the revs, so the sender is at fault, not the engine.
I am now wondering if the high oil pressure has damaged the sender somehow.
Richard
So at 3,000rpm on a not fully heated up engine, it reads 60 PSI - hmmm that now seems a bit high, I will have to have a look at the pressure relief spring when I am down there taking the gauge off. Tickover is 30PSI, and 2,000rpm when the car gauge reads around 5PSI the capillary gauge shows a healthy 45PSI
The good bit though, is that it actually increases with the revs, so the sender is at fault, not the engine.
I am now wondering if the high oil pressure has damaged the sender somehow.
Richard
ghce
Well-Known Member
All sounds good to me and i am sure a relief for you, as Chris says 60 psi at 3K is good, it would be interesting to note what a good factory sender would say at RPM and temp. Would make a nice project to dissasemble and repair the sender given the poor quality of the current offerings........
Graeme
Graeme
stina
New Member
chrisyork said:
Richard has the same uprated oil pump as i and a few others have . If the pressure is too high it puts undue stress on the distributer / oil pump drive . That'll be the concern .
Keep posting as to how you deal with the high pressure Rich as mine is on the high side with a warm engine . I had thought about putting another sealing washer under the spring retaining bolt :?
I agree that the stress on the skew drive will be increased by high pressure, Stina. I'm not at all sure that that constitutes "undue" stress. It's not a component I ever recall having heard of fail. Perhaps of more significance is that it will tend to load up the timing chain further. But you, of all people, have nothing to fear there! Perhaps an elderly OE single chain might be persuaded to slip a couple of nylon cogs if pressed - but that, to me, merely says that it is overdue renewal.
My recollection is that 75 psi is common for a new engine revved when cold. I'd be perfectly happy with that. I might start getting mildly nervous about 100 psi. But I really don't see any issues with that pressure across the head joints, provided there isn't already a defect in the head gasket that this pressure simply finds out. If the head gaskets can't take 100 psi, then they are going to be in serious trouble once the engine fires! I really can't think of any other vulnerabilities that wouldn't also be in trouble at 15 psi!
I know one very highly respected engine builder who automatically puts a stronger spring than standard in the pressure relief valve specifically to attain these sorts of pressures.
!00 psi is relatively common in engines of that era, I certainly recall my MGC regularely approaching 100 psi when cold.
No doubt Ron will now arrive to tell me what I'm misunderstanding.
Chris
My recollection is that 75 psi is common for a new engine revved when cold. I'd be perfectly happy with that. I might start getting mildly nervous about 100 psi. But I really don't see any issues with that pressure across the head joints, provided there isn't already a defect in the head gasket that this pressure simply finds out. If the head gaskets can't take 100 psi, then they are going to be in serious trouble once the engine fires! I really can't think of any other vulnerabilities that wouldn't also be in trouble at 15 psi!
I know one very highly respected engine builder who automatically puts a stronger spring than standard in the pressure relief valve specifically to attain these sorts of pressures.
!00 psi is relatively common in engines of that era, I certainly recall my MGC regularely approaching 100 psi when cold.
No doubt Ron will now arrive to tell me what I'm misunderstanding.
Chris
Thanks for all of the advice everyone.
I am not too fussed about the oil pressure now that I know I have some 8), just 60PSI seemed quite high for a while.
At 3,000 rpm when hot it sits well over to the right hand side of the gauge, so around 45-50PSI
The engine has only done about 10,00 miles since new so apart from the gauge sender, all appears just as it should.
I have ordered a new sender, Wins have run out of old ones
so will be sorted soon.
Richard
I am not too fussed about the oil pressure now that I know I have some 8), just 60PSI seemed quite high for a while.
At 3,000 rpm when hot it sits well over to the right hand side of the gauge, so around 45-50PSI
The engine has only done about 10,00 miles since new so apart from the gauge sender, all appears just as it should.
I have ordered a new sender, Wins have run out of old ones
so will be sorted soon.Richard
stina
New Member
HHHMMM Mr C,york I may of spent too much time reading posts on the v8 forum , but the uprated pump gears can put the skew gears under stress and strip teeth . I hope your right as i'm running the high volume oil pump as you know .
I would imagine if a problem were to arise it would be soon after the pump rebuild , with new thick oil , ( as in the stage i'm at now ) :shock:
Lets hope your right
Ps not heard from the Ron the bible for a few weeks !
You out there somewhere Ron ?
I would imagine if a problem were to arise it would be soon after the pump rebuild , with new thick oil , ( as in the stage i'm at now ) :shock:
Lets hope your right
Ps not heard from the Ron the bible for a few weeks !
You out there somewhere Ron ?
stina
New Member
Hi Dave , Harvey . Yeah agree , i never rev her hard at the best of times , and keep it below 2k rpm until warmed up . Dave , the 3 liter granada , that'll be the one with 2 cylinders missing i guess Parked next to a coupe version on the prom this afternoon . He had the bonnet up and all , then i opened mine , then he went home :shock:
Parked next to a coupe version on the prom this afternoon . He had the bonnet up and all , then i opened mine , then he went home :shock:
stina said:Hi Dave , Harvey . Yeah agree , i never rev her hard at the best of times , and keep it below 2k rpm until warmed up . Dave , the 3 liter granada , that'll be the one with 2 cylinders missing i guess
Granada Coupe? - oooh very nice. I do like them 8)
Nice, very nice. Nicer with V8 in it, but still love 'em.
Getting back to high volume oil pumps on the Rover V8 - the uprated gears for the P6 are the same as the SD1 pumps, so I don't see why they should cause any trouble with shearing teeth?
Richard
stina
New Member
:shock:quattro said:stina said:Hi Dave , Harvey . Yeah agree , i never rev her hard at the best of times , and keep it below 2k rpm until warmed up . Dave , the 3 liter granada , that'll be the one with 2 cylinders missing i guess
Granada Coupe? - oooh very nice. I do like them 8)
Nice, very nice. Nicer with V8 in it, but still love 'em.
Getting back to high volume oil pumps on the Rover V8 - the uprated gears for the P6 are the same as the SD1 pumps, so I don't see why they should cause any trouble with shearing teeth?
Richard
Lets hope not Richard , bit worrying when you see 60+psi as she warms up though :shock:
To be clear. The high volume pump is indeed SD1 spec so should have no effect either on pressure or on life expectancy of the skew gears. The high pressures result from something being changed in the pressure relief valve - ie a stronge spring or the valve stuck closed. In combination with the larger volume pump that will up the strain on the timing chain and skew gears. But I'd still be surprised to see damage result.
Chris
Chris
ghce
Well-Known Member
to there credit Ford did update the drive hex geometry to a fatter profile some where in its production life, yes the fibre gear was abit of a mistake, I remember changing mine when I recond the engine....some where about on this forum Ron posted a picture of his naffed Rover one which compared to the Ford one looked brand new! Still I really liked that ford V6 other than its weight it was a solid and powerful performer for its day.
Graeme
Graeme