Overheating issue with my 2200 TC

C

CYF

New Member
Hi everyone,

It's now fours years I own my 2200 TC, I drive it very often to work and so far had no problem .
Last week in the traffic at low speed, the temperature gauge went up to the red limit. I stopped and looked for something obvious but found nothing: no leaks, no hard hoses, no white fume at the exhaust... The coolant level was good when I checked it the week before.
I drove back home with eyes on the gauge and found that when I was at iddle or low speed, if I rev the engine at say 2000 RPM, the temperature went back to the 85 mark. When driving at normal speed, no problem.

Last week end, I made a try and it was the same: the warm up is as normal but the needle don't stop at 85, it keep on rising to the red and if I rev up , it goes down.
So I checked the thermostat, the temp sender unit, I flushed the radiator, drain the engine and flushed it, everything was OK. I then decided to look at the water pump and removed it and it seems to be OK too.
There's no water in oil or oil in the water.

The only think I noticed was that I have a leak on the exhaust manifold on the Y between cylinder 2 and 3.

Can someone give me an advice please? Thank you
 
Hi Colin,

when I flushed the block, the water came out clear. If I remove the side plates, I fear the worst about leaks afterward
 
The way you describe it, it seems that it either suffers from bad coolant circulation or bad airflow through the radiator. However, since you've gone through the cooling system and didn't find any problem, i just hope that you are using an antifreeze solution and not straight water, as the later will lead to corrosion and silt inside the engine.

Remember also that weak air/fuel ratios and retarded ignition will also contribute to overheating, so it is worth checking that everything is as it should be there too.
The HIF6 carbs of the 2200 TC have thermostaticaly controlled jets that lean the mixture as they heat up, so you sort of end up in a vicious circle if you start with an already lean mixture at idle due to whatever reason. These engines need at least 3 - 3.5% CO at idle to run happy.
 
I don't think clear water is any indication of a clean block. Our 2200TC had a fine collection of silt around the rear cylinders but the water wasn't cloudy.
 
Thank you for the answers.
Well well well..... As I removed the radiator, waterpump, inlet and exhaust manifolds, it's may be worth to remove the side plates to see what's behind before refitting to check the timing and the mixture.
My concern is the leaks afterward. Does anyone did it? Are the gaskets still available?
 
Gaskets are available Cyf. I've just bought a pair to do the side plates on my 2000 this summer. Link here side plate gaskets

My 2000 runs on the hot side during summer with the needle sitting at the top of the green section on the guage. I've flushed and back-flushed the system several times, always getting clear water, yet after driving around for a few weeks the coolant looks brown so there must be silt in there someplace, probably behind the sideplates.

Dave
 
I have just had the side plates off but I had the engine on the bench so it was easy.

I imagine on the UK passenger side you'd need to remove inlet manifold/carbs, exhaust manifold and engine mounting. On the UK drivers side brake servo, engine mounting, distributor/aux drive and oil pump though you might be able to do it without removing the aux drive but its probably fiddly and not easy to scrape the old gasket off or apply wellseal.
 

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Demetris said:
The way you describe it, it seems that it either suffers from bad coolant circulation or bad airflow through the radiator. However, since you've gone through the cooling system and didn't find any problem, i just hope that you are using an antifreeze solution and not straight water, as the later will lead to corrosion and silt inside the engine.
Click to expand...

Using straight water is a fine strategy (in the summer) but only if you use both distilled water and an additive pack (Water Wetter or the equivalent) to avoid corrosion. Straight water will cool better than an antifreeze mix. I've been (mostly) running water in the summer and antifreeze in the winter in my P6s for years with no corrosion issues.

Yours
Vern
 
I 'm not using plain water;

The RHS of the engine will be the most difficult side to remove the plate. Do you use a sealant in addition of the gasket?
Talking about gasket, i changed the rocker cover one and it's still leaking bad. I s there a trick to fit it?
 
CYF said:
I 'm not using plain water;

The RHS of the engine will be the most difficult side to remove the plate. Do you use a sealant in addition of the gasket?
Talking about gasket, i changed the rocker cover one and it's still leaking bad. I s there a trick to fit it?
Click to expand...

I used wellseal which rover recommended http://www.wellseal.co.uk/ its readily available on ebay amongst other places. I've never used it before always more modern sealants but now I prefer it. The cam cover gasket needs to be positioned carefully before the cover is fitted. Some people use a few blobs of silicon sealant to hold the gasket in place. Don't overtighten the cover nuts. Make sure you can see the gasket all the way round the edge before final tightening.
 
Vern Klukas said:
Using straight water is a fine strategy (in the summer) but only if you use both distilled water and an additive pack (Water Wetter or the equivalent) to avoid corrosion.
Click to expand...

Vern, by straight water i meant tap water, and what you are using clearly isn't neither tap nor straight, but a mix! :wink:


CYF said:
The RHS of the engine will be the most difficult side to remove the plate. Do you use a sealant in addition of the gasket?
Click to expand...

CYF, you can always start with the LHS since you have already removed the carbs and manifolds. This one will be easy. Depending on what you will see inside, you can decide wether to get involved with the difficult RHS or not. When i changed gasket in mine i just used some blue Hylomar. It seems to hold up fine so far. Perhaps a stronger / setting sealant would be safer, but i cannot advice on any specific product.
 
Thank you for the advices and links.
I cheked under the bonnet yesterday to see if I go for the RHS plate or not. There's things to remove to get some room...
 
You will get the vast majority of silt out just by removing the side plate on one side, as you can reach between the cylinders with wire and a hose . Hard calcified deposits are more difficult to dislodge. If you have not already taken a sideplate off, i would put citric acid solution in the engine and leave it for several days before you take the sideplate off
 
I tried to remove the side plate today but the last bolt which was the front engine mounting stud didn't want to came off. The nut came off but the stud stayed in





I tried and tried but didn't want to brake it in the block
How can I remove it? :?
 
CYF said:
The nut came off but the stud stayed in
Click to expand...


That's what's supposed to happen. You need to get two 3/8" UNF nuts and lock them together to remove the stud part.

You should also stick some rags in the inlets to prevent anything falling down there.
 
That's what I did Harvey, but it did not work. Again, i don't want to broke the stud in the block. The rear one came as one piece when I unscrewed the nut so I thought this was the way the front one should have behave.
I'll protect the inlets
 
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