Rover p6b restoration

Are these original or later big valve heads - I can't quite see if you have double valve springs. To me there is no point whatsoever in retaining the originals considering the later ones can be sourced for £100, look identical, have proper valve stem sealing and flow 16% better.
 
Are these original or later big valve heads - I can't quite see if you have double valve springs. To me there is no point whatsoever in retaining the originals considering the later ones can be sourced for £100, look identical, have proper valve stem sealing and flow 16% better.
They are the original heads and valve springs and they were retained mainly because I never planned on rebuilding the engine so yes I could get a set for around £100 but I wasnt looking for power gains just wanted to get it up and running again.
The costs of this restoration have already spiralled so only replacing whats needed now
 
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So I had a bit of time spare earlier so gave the gearbox a degrease and a luck of black paint on the casing.
If all goes well i hope to get it mounted on the engine Saturday and dropped back in the car.
(Not that the box ever was)
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Also found out that its a suffix d box which I believe is from the vitesse so that's good.
 
I've just realised this morning and after watching the video back that the sleeve I have for the clutch release bearing is wrong.
So will have to pull back out again and split to fit the correct one.
 
I've been following this on and off and haven't read everything but noticed your fitting the P6 heads back on. If you take the exhaust manifolds off and stick your little finger into each eexhaust port you fill find one on each side (same head, other way round...) is nearly completely blocked by an aluminium intrusion originally put there for an air injection pipe (I'm told) which was never fitted. Milling it out with a die grinder improves both performance and fuel economy and is pretty well free. If you haven't done that already...
M
 
I've been following this on and off and haven't read everything but noticed your fitting the P6 heads back on. If you take the exhaust manifolds off and stick your little finger into each eexhaust port you fill find one on each side (same head, other way round...) is nearly completely blocked by an aluminium intrusion originally put there for an air injection pipe (I'm told) which was never fitted. Milling it out with a die grinder improves both performance and fuel economy and is pretty well free. If you haven't done that already...
M
I can't say I noticed it when I was cleaning the heads up but that's not to say there not there.
Needless to say I won't be doing it now there back on.
 
Real PITA there being 3 variants of the fork pivot, and at least 2 lengths of the throwout bearing sleeve! Great fun getting the lever engaged in the sleeve, isnt it?
 
Real PITA there being 3 variants of the fork pivot, and at least 2 lengths of the throwout bearing sleeve! Great fun getting the lever engaged in the sleeve, isnt it?
It is, you need half a dozen hands to try and hold everything.
 
Nicely done, wish I had known to put the balance bar handle at the back of the engine, that would have saved me some time and stress :hmm:
 
Nicely done, wish I had known to put the balance bar handle at the back of the engine, that would have saved me some time and stress :hmm:
Funny you say that, I didn't the first time which did cause much annoyance and a certain amount of swearing. Lol.
 
I already had the engine dangling over the engine bay, with the gearbox almost into the tunnel. After a bit of head scratching I managed to remove the handle and fit a nut on there instead, and managed to turn it with a socket on a ratchet bar.
 
Bit more done, so the cup that goes on the gearstick was missing so managed to track one down that was broken like they normally do so modified slightly with some small gussets.
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Also fitted new rear oil seal in gearbox and moved the reserve tap slightly as was to close to gearbox when fitted, can be seen in the video.
 
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