Rover p6b restoration

Very useful Stu, helpful. Wonder if you can give me a measure of how far the gearbox drive flange is above the bottom edge of the tunnel please?
thanks
 
jp928 said:
Very useful Stu, helpful. Wonder if you can give me a measure of how far the gearbox drive flange is above the bottom edge of the tunnel please?
thanks
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On mine it was 6 1/4 inches down from the tunnel.
Can see on this video about 15 mins in.
 
jp928 said:
Thanks. Bit difficult to measure that with a lt77 remote change above it....or a 4 speed change.
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That is very true, you can get pretty close by measuring next to the remote though.
The figure is never going to be 100% anyway with sag in old mounts etc.
 
My 4 speed rear mount is almost new,so no sag there. My car has the big cast rear mount adaptor , which doesnt appear in the parts book - it only shows a fabricated type mount.
 
jp928 said:
My 4 speed rear mount is almost new,so no sag there. My car has the big cast rear mount adaptor , which doesnt appear in the parts book - it only shows a fabricated type mount.
Click to expand...
So if your fitting the lt77 and your mount is cast then I would just use part of an sd1 mount than fabricate the rest to fit the body.
To be honest I didn't use much of the p6 mount anyway
 
Planning on using the SD1 mount like you have. being a 4speed body, the tunnel is a lot narrower I believe.
 
jp928 said:
Planning on using the SD1 mount like you have. being a 4speed body, the tunnel is a lot narrower I believe.
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I believe that's right.
I have the advantage of the wider tunnel for the box to fit but the disadvantage of nowhere to put my clutch foot whilst driving.
Not that I've drove it anywhere yet
 
Caught an old Wheeler Dealers today - Morgan +4. chassis replaced, and as Ed dismantled the body, removed the engine+gearbox - LT77 obvious, with a flat mount plate attached to vertical bobbins screwed into the vertical holes in front of the angled holes as used by SD1. might look at going that way. Its not as though i am going to be doing 10s of thousands of miles now......
 
jp928 said:
Caught an old Wheeler Dealers today - Morgan +4. chassis replaced, and as Ed dismantled the body, removed the engine+gearbox - LT77 obvious, with a flat mount plate attached to vertical bobbins screwed into the vertical holes in front of the angled holes as used by SD1. might look at going that way. Its not as though i am going to be doing 10s of thousands of miles now......
Click to expand...
I was thinking of using those holes but they seemed quite far forward and the bobbins would have been lower making the mounting lower.
There's no real wrong or right way to do it just different.
 
Yes. I will not make a decision on this until I have the box in place at the right height and can see all the pros and cons.
 
Might I. suggest folks check the gearbox and diff flange angles from the vertical, and equalise as close as poss regardless of what height the gesrbox flange was before. It will help to reduce driveline vibration.
 
cobraboy said:
Might I. suggest folks check the gearbox and diff flange angles from the vertical, and equalise as close as poss regardless of what height the gesrbox flange was before. It will help to reduce driveline vibration.
Click to expand...
That's a good point, guess I could check using a level ?
 
Yup I used a digital level. Despite setting the gearbox at exactly the same height as the auto I had bad driveline vibration which was not noticed with the auto. I measured the angles and they were 5 deg apart. I raised the tail of the box, and lowered the nose of the diff and got to 1 deg apart.
I also checked all the UJ's and found a couple of dry joints in the driveshafts.
I had the car up to @ 120 mph on a circuit afterward and it was super smooth. I also fitted a Britpart prop spacer to close up the propshaft splines as they were at full stretch, but I think my prop had been messed with in the past.
 
cobraboy said:
Yup I used a digital level. Despite setting the gearbox at exactly the same height as the auto I had bad driveline vibration which was not noticed with the auto. I measured the angles and they were 5 deg apart. I raised the tail of the box, and lowered the nose of the diff and got to 1 deg apart.
I also checked all the UJ's and found a couple of dry joints in the driveshafts.
I had the car up to @ 120 mph on a circuit afterward and it was super smooth. I also fitted a Britpart prop spacer to close up the propshaft splines as they were at full stretch, but I think my prop had been messed with in the past.
Click to expand...
Did see you mention in another post about your prop.
I've replaced driveshaft ujs and will be replacing the ones on the propshaft but only have a normal level so will get the diff extension flange level then get the gearbox one the same then hopefully should be all good
 
The engine is supposed to be at 5 degrees in a P6, and so is the diff. Mine was 3, and the diff was 1 ?

I set them both to 3 degrees when I fitted the jag diff, and the drivetrain is super smooth.
 
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