You would want it plated rather than galvanized, two very different processes. If you look at a thermostat, items immersed in coolant are often (usually?) cadmium plated (yellow). Given it's 0.0001" thick, I doubt you'd need any drilling. It is however toxic.
Actually, 100% works just fine. I've been running it for a couple of years now, and Evans product (not what I use, but that's a tale of frugality) is certified for several aircraft powerplants.
Long story short, while antifreeze has less heat capacity than water, its vapour pressure is much higher. That means that you never get the film of steam against the hot surface that you do with water coolant, which vastly slows the heat transfer to the liquid coolant. Minimizing the thickness of this vapour film is the reason all water cooling systems are run under pressure. Race cars, which usually are required to run straight water (antifreeze is slippery), often run cooling system pressure close to 100 psi.
A side advantage is that, because there is no steaming or pressure in the system leaks are less frequent and rubber hoses last much longer. And of course, no water means close to no corrosion of either iron or aluminum.
Yours
Vern
Evans waterless coolant, prevent engine overheating
So no mixing radiator water with you G&T's of an evening
Though of course you dont necessarily need cadmium plating, you can still electroplate Zinc
Graeme
Hi, this may be a ridiculous question but is there anything I can protect the inside of my new engine side plates with or will it just get stripped off by hot antifreeze and spread into cooling system and block up all the small water ways ?
That's part of the reason everyone switched to negative earthing for the car batteries. That and radio reception.Another less automotively conventional way to stop corrosion is to run an electrical current through the chassis (and engine) reverse electrolysis to prevent the rust. This system is used on ships to slow or prevent corrosion.