Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work

[cobraboy]

I had a problem with the rocker posts on my original cast iron heads fitted to my Mustang, two of the actual cast posts had split and the rocker studs were wobbly. Scrapping the heads was not an option and welding looked dodgy.
I found a company in the States that supplies all manor of threaded inserts some of which leave the repair stronger than the parent metal. The FST inserts come in a kit with a cutter and full instructions. I know that your castings are not cracked and you may well do well with a helicoil, but if you want piece of mind these fixings are awesome and actually pulled the swollen rocker posts back into shape due to the dovetail top of the insert.
I shipped them here via USPS very quickly. I would not hesitate to order again even for head bolt holes in a block for which they would be perfect.
FST Style Inserts - Basic Kits On Lock-N-Stitch
Or these without the top hoop and these go smaller in size.
http://castingrepair.locknstitch.co...yle-inserts-basic-kits?&bc=100|1002|1003|1213

 

[quattro]

Do the helicoil yourself. I can't see you having any problems doing it if you take care, which you obviously will.

Cheers for the confidence Harvey, I'll give it a go in the week. The alternative is removing the head and taking it into town, which I really don't want to do.

Interesting stuff Cobraboy, but I think I'll just use a helicoil on this one.

Right, I turned the engine back and forth with the timing disc on, and got 16 one way and 344 the other, so spot on. Then turned it until the inlet on No. 1 was almost fully open, at 276 degrees. Then I set up the dial gauge onto the top of the pushrod and set it to zero. Carried on turning the engine and watched the dial gauge register, then turned very slowly until it went back to zero, at 218. Mid way point was 247, so it had moved 113 degrees at full lift. I'm happy with that, although it may have been easier to number the timing disc the other way round

Next job, whip off the pulley and take it apart. It only uses three bolts to hold it together, so no problem with the nut shortage. Shame I spent ages going through the spares tins to find some that fitted!! Gave all of the mating surfaces a good clean up then watched to trigger wheel installation video supplied.



The video shows to put the trigger wheel on the back of the pulley, but on the P6 pulley this would put the power steering drive belt out of alignment, so it had to go on the front.



Putting it on the front however, left the sensor 71mm too far back so a bracket of some description needs making. Better make a solid one though as the sensor will be only 0.5mm from the trigger wheel, don't want that flapping around in the breeze



The bolts to the right of the pulley are the suggested bolts. I have put the belts back on before I start playing with bracket ideas; don't want to spend time getting the sensor to fit to find that it fouls on the V belts.



Hoping to get the manifold back Mon/tues so can get bolting the shiny bits on

 

[Quagmire]

I ended up using a bit of square 1" (I think) section bolted to the power steering bracketry as a mount for my VR sensor. Would put a photo up but photobucket is blocked at work and my phone isn't playing ball! Its in my thread somewhere...

 

[quattro]

I ended up using a bit of square 1" (I think) section bolted to the power steering bracketry as a mount for my VR sensor. Would put a photo up but photobucket is blocked at work and my phone isn't playing ball! Its in my thread somewhere...

Cheers Quagmire, yes I have been reading through your thread and have seen the pic, however I need to mount it 71mm forward, so 1" isn't going to get there. I have some ideas though, we'll see how they go.

Richard

 

[sowen]

I've got a bit of gash 3mm steel hammered round for my trigger mount which is similar length to what you need. It only picks up on one bolt, and works fine hence still being a chunk of gash hammered 3mm steel

 

[quattro]

I've got a bit of gash 3mm steel hammered round for my trigger mount which is similar length to what you need. It only picks up on one bolt, and works fine hence still being a chunk of gash hammered 3mm steel

I was kind of thinking about using studs to replace those two bolts and then mounting a piece of box section on the end of them. What could possibly go wrong ?

 

[quattro]

I've had a play

The bolts that are supposed to take the bracket are 71mm too far back so I need to bring them forward. I have a couple of studs and fitted a nyloc at the right distance so I can just use them in place of the bolts and leave a stud protruding forwards.



Fitted them to the engine, tightened them up so they do their job as bolts, and hold the power steering bracket on.





Two more nylocs and washers hold the sensor bracket in the right place.



On with the sensor, and voila . Happy with that, just need to set it at 0.5mm. I may trim the bracket yet as the tip of it is sitting between the main pulley and the trigger wheel, but I'm sure there's plenty of room - about 2mm

Richard

 

[Quagmire]

Looks good - that should do the trick!

 

[quattro]

Looks good - that should do the trick!

I reckon

Well here's the helicoil and the bit of thread that I unscrewed from the bolt



Drilled out the old thread to the correct size and tapped the hole for the helicoil



Helicoil fitted, pleased with that



Manifold is back and I got one of those tiny dizzies so the oil pump still works. I had to buy a scrap one and send it away to have it chopped off and turned into the tiny dizzy.



Like the look of that, oh yes

 

[cobraboy]

That helicoil looks to have gone very well !!

 

[mrtask]

I like your plastic bag technique to catch the swarf. EFI intake looks good in there, doesn't it? I'll be following your Meqasquirt exploits with interest. I'd also wanted to go down this route but those party-poopers at the TÜV won't let me install the wicked Callaway Range Rover EFI set-up (significantly shorter trumpets) I've got languishing on a shelf in my garage, whilst retaining my 'H' number plates.

 

[quattro]

Cheers cobraboy/mrtask

I fitted one years ago and made a right pig's ear of it so I was very careful. I put the bolts in either side so I could see the angle I needed, then put some tape around them to make them the same size as the drill bit. Then clamped a straight edge between the two so that I knew the angle would be spot on if the drill bit touched it when drilling. (I hope that makes senses ?)

I open out a plastic bag and put a small slit in it then, forced it over the pedestal so it was tight, then tapes it into position.

Then drill a bit, vacuum, drill a bit vacuum etc

Used plenty of cutting fluid and time. Worked a treat

I have slapped the system together to check for bonnet clearance, and it touches the sound deadening. I checked it by placing some gaffa tape upside down on the plenum, then closing the bonnet. When opened, the tape was stuck to sound deadening



Doesn't show to well in the pic, but it is touching. Anyone know if this is a problem?



I've read that you have shave a bit off the bottom of the plenum base to drop it a little, but I am a bit busy with practising for walking up stuff at the mo, three peaks challenge next week

 

[ghce]

Good progress, keep up the photo journalism and descriptions

 

[Quagmire]

My 3.9 plenum seems to be ok - but then its plain ally, not nicely painted up like yours so even if it does touch slightly the worst that will happen to mine is that it's just going to polish it a bit.

The later squarer 4.0. and 4.6 plenums definitely touch though, which was why I changed to the earlier one. It left a dent in the sound deadening!

Should be easy enough to get someone to machine the plenum or ram housing down a bit. if you do the plenum, you'll need to shorten the ram pipes/trumpets by the same amount.

 

[mrtask]

There was a chap on here some years ago now with a Paprika 3500S who fitted EFI, can't remember his username now though. Nice looking car. He cut a long hole in his bonet and fitted a NADA long centre scoop so the front of the plenum cover could just peep through. I reckon you should do the same, just 'cos it looks wicked!

 

[quattro]

Cheers all

I haven't done much this week, been busy.

mrtask - Nooooooo

I got a local machine shop to shave 6mm off the bottom of the trumpet housing only to discover there are some drain holes drilled into the side of the tubes to allow any collected liquids from inside the plenum chamber to drain into the engine to be burnt. I will have to open them up a little as half of each hole has now gone

Now bear in mind that I have never delved into EFI before so all of the little problems you come up against are new to me. The next thing I found was that there was no bypass hole in the manifold where my thermostat cover fitted. There was a plug to the right of the cover so I had to get a fitting for this



After much googling I found that an ETC6547 was the bit required. The outlet to the upper left for the heater was too big for a 3/4 hose so I got it on the bench grinder. Now it fits . I have fitted the manifold now, all sealed up and torqued down ready.



The new bypass hose (ERC2319) is from a landrover V8, is a perfect fit and a lot easier to install than the P6 version. I also had to find a thermostat housing without the bypass tube. All done and fitted now though. Not happy with the other hose going under the mani like that, will have to sort that bit later.



The short hose from the upper heater outlet is actually an ERC2279 which is the hose from the water pump to the pipe under the mani on a P6. It's just the right shape for this. Neither of the vacuum fittings on the plenum would fit the servo hose, so I found that the one from the rear of the offenhauser fitted perfectly. I'm hoping that's where it fits, I'll have to check that (Anyone know?)

Will be trying a little harder after next week

 

[Quagmire]

Looking really smart!

For Land-Rover part numbers I use "microcat" which is the dealer software. There are a few versions online like this one:

Land Rover parts

Keep up the good work

 

[quattro]

Been doing a few things. I dropped the injectors into a local chap who services them. They were a bit scagged up so after a good clean and a rebuild, they all flow 60 something or other, which must be good They are now back in but I didn't realise they needed some clips to hold them in the right place. Got them now and fitted them. Replaced the under mani hose with a pipe I got from ebay, set up the trigger wheel properly at a gap of 0.6mm, refitted the radiator along with top and bottom hoses, and plumbed the heater back in.



Fitted the bracket for the PWM unit, removed the front section of the exhaust for the installation of the Lambda probe, and took the tank out.



There's a place on the underside of the plenum which should have a plate on it to plumb water to stop icing in cold weather. I bought a comprehensive kit for the car, and this should have been in it, but wasn't. Although the seller has agreed to send one, there is no sign of it yet, so the plenum remains off until it arrives



I taped a jar lid to the tank to check it would fit back into its place, but it didn't so I had to move it along. The tank does twist around a bit when dropping it in.



The pump is an 'in tank' unit from a Range Rover and apparently won't need a swirl pot unless I intend to drive it off-road or for racing and cornering hard. We'll see about that. The lower end of the pump needs to sit further back and lower down, so some modification will be required, more of that later (when I've done it )





Coil packs place in position. not quite sure how to mount them yet, but will sort it out shortly.



The lambda probe needs to be upright and fitted just after where the Y piece joins. Unfortunately there is insufficient clearance so it will have to sit at 10 o'clock or so. I'm hoping this won't make any difference, and to be honest I can't see why it should.

The car is up on ramps at the moment, so I have to sort the tank pump and get the lambda probe into the exhaust, get them back in and plumb the fuel pipes before I can do anything else.

Getting there

 

[Quagmire]

Like it! I used that same pump in my Landrover 90 when i EFI'd it. That tank has some very basic baffles in it but nothing flash and it has never let me down even when offroading.

On the Defender I fitted the lambda after the Y-piece. However on the P6 I decided to fit my lambda in the passenger side downpipe , which was much easier to do. It doesn't give any issues in day to day use, and because i grouped my injector wiring to fire as the carbs would have done (One driver fires 1,7,4,6 the other 2,8,3,5) i am sniffing exhaust from each injector driver so should still see something odd happen if one of them ever craps out. For more info on wiring this way see the bottom of this thread Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) • Racelogic Traction Control System Problem. (View topic)

If you do want to go after the Y-piece so you are sniffing all cylinders then 10 O'Clock should be fine. It has to be as near vertical as possible to stop it getting condensation collecting on it. Don't be tempted to run the car with the sensor unpowered (if its a wideband) as you will kill it.

 

[quattro]

Interesting stuff Quagmire, but to be honest as this is my first delve into EFI I think I'll follow the manual exactly until I know more about what I am doing

Got the lambda in and wired up, here it is with the new plugs on. It's now in the exhaust just behind where it joins into one, and at 10.00 o'clock - plenty of clearance.


Have started wrapping up some wires for the loom, only the small bit for the lambda, but it's a start



The missing bit from the plenum turned up, bit of a state though. I did manage to get it cleaned up eventually and got it on the plenum. Plenum top is now fitted, and doesn't need to come off again, I hope. Water hoses connected to the new bit, and to the manifold and radiator, where the small hose from the tower used to go. Throttle cable arrived but no cotter pin, so I can't fit it yet. Haven't worked out to connect the other end yet either, it will come to me



Now the tank is a rather weird shape to fit an efi pump into. It sits a bit like this.



The pump needs to fit into the back of the tank at its lowest point, and upright if possible. But the pump I got with the kit looks like this. Too short and sits directly downwards.



So I disconnected it and changed it around a bit. It does look a bit like something Heath Robinson would be proud of, but I'm sure it'll work. What could possibly go wrong



Here is an internal pic, with the bottom of the pump sitting around an inch from the bottom and nearly at the back.



As I have started looking at the loom, I am now wondering how the hell to wire this plug? I stripped a wire to test it and the wire is too big to fit the hole. Is it just soldered in? on? am I missing something?



Richard