Steering wheel - another idiots guide please!

CV35Ian

Member
I need to get the wheel off, its the one as pictured.

I can see spokes have to be vertical to undo two small screws on rear of spoke, what I cant seem to do is get any purchase with a phillips or flat head screwdriver, and short of ripping a mirror off, cant see what the head pattern is - so:

Is it a hex key or do I just persevere with the existing tools?

Ian

PS that hideous gearknob has gone and interior is now all beige!
 

Attachments

  • 3500 4.jpg
    3500 4.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 2,007
The screws are Phillips. I have a screwdriver that's 1" long including the handle which is just perfect for the job. Once that's out of the way, remove the nut and washer, then put just the nut back on so it's about 1/8" away from touching the wheel before you attempt to pull the wheel off.
 
I had Lady C's steering wheel off this weekend and used a phillips screwdriver that has a right angled end to it. Bit fiddly but it worked.

Dave
 
put just the nut back on so it's about 1/8" away from touching the wheel before you attempt to pull the wheel off.

Very wise ... otherwise you'll be picking your teeth out of the steering wheel when it comes off ... you need to pull like hell to get it off!!
 
Brian-Northampton said:
put just the nut back on so it's about 1/8" away from touching the wheel before you attempt to pull the wheel off.

Very wise ... otherwise you'll be picking your teeth out of the steering wheel when it comes off ... you need to pull like hell to get it off!!

A few taps on the back of the spokes with a hide mallet works quite well too :wink:

Dave
 
Thanks everyone, i'll dig out the right angled tool I have, along with my copper/leather mallet and crash helmet :D ..................if I dont kill/concuss myself in the process i'll report back!

Ian
 
Tried removal last night (inc the tapping with hammer), stuck fast.

Treated it to some WD40 so will get my old faithful 'wire wheel' mallet out later and hit a bit harder!
 
I took the wheel off mine last week and used the following technique:-

As harvey says slacken the nut off but leave it on a few turns so the wheel won't fly off and to protect the column thread.
Sit in the car and adjust the drivers seat forward of the normal position so that with your feet flat on the floor between the pedals your legs are bent with knees behind the steering wheel spokes.
Extend the calf muscles ( like standing on tip toes) and apply firm pressure with the knees from behind on the spokes; you'll see the steering wheel bend and flex towards you. Hold in that position.
Using a suitable drift and hammer tap sharply and firmly on the centre nut and the wheel will be shocked loose.

Be careful not to duff the end of the steering column in!
 
aha so that's how you do it. Never managed to remove mine since i had it and have tried on several occasions!
 
CV35Ian said:
Despite much effort, lots of profanities and my big hammer, it will not budge
Buggerations

You may have to squirt a little CRC or diesel onto the nut and column thread and leave overnight to soak down the thread > then do the above callisthenics
Ive lived through that one many times
Gerald
 
I once used a piece of angle iron against the spokes , something wedged between the nut and the angle iron and undid the nut to apply pressure to the angle iron
Walked away from it and it suddenly went "crack" as the wheel loosened
 
I know it will be messy, and you must be careful not to get burnt, bit I once removed a steering wheel by pouring boiling water onto the ally centre of the wheel, the ally expands and after some wiggling and pulling, off popped the wheel.
Good luck
Glen.
 
Thanks everyone, I may try heat - have a heat gun!!

WD40 wont work

See my thread re the window winder/door removal - i'll bet the bugger who used to own this has glued the steering wheel on as well!
 
thats what i thought was up with mine, but judging by the other comments this is actually pretty normal!
 
harveyp6 said:
The screws are Phillips.

They're actually Pozi, or at least they were on Brown Rover. I replaced them with a couple of hex cap screws. Much easier to deal with.
 
Pozidrive screws appear very often within computer cases and associated equipment.

Torx have started to replace Allen bolts within Campagnolo components too.

I recall my father saying while in a hardware store (this would have been during the 1970's) that when asked by an assistant what he was looking for, and my father replied,.."A Phillips screwdriver", the shop assistant then said, "oh sorry, we don't stock that brand" :shock: My father walked out in disgust.

Ron.
 
If its that tight you need a puller, beg, steal, borrow or make. You might be able to do something with a pair of exhaust U clamps and a length of flat bar.
 
Back
Top