Still NO START ...

R

Rover2000nut

New Member
When rechecking everything, i discovered i switched the plug wires when putting on a new cap......doing it from the back i had all plug leads 1 back....1 where 2 would be , 3 where 1 would be etc........
I fixed that now but still have nothing.....i put back the old cap points and condensor since it was going when i parked it...but nothing....tried moving timing....changed coil..........hooked up plug to #1 turned over and i'm getting spark.......also checked and i'm getting gas.....even spraying ether...i get nothing......now at wits end.....still don't understand electrical ......HELP
 
If you've been cranking for a while and spraying stuff down the carbs, it's probably time to pull the plugs out and dry them off. I imagine they are quite wet with fuel by now. Also check the gap, I had a TC completely fail to start once because the spark plugs were gapped to .030". Regapped them to .025" and away she went. If you've been playing with the timing, go back and set it statically to give it a fair chance of being right. Also, double check your firing order again. Make sure it's not 180 degrees out. ie: make sure #1 is on the compression stroke when it fires.
Does it catch a little bit when you crank it? Or just wind over and over?
 
Okay, sounds to me that you have lost timing and plug lead position by now. first thing to do is whip off the cap. If I recall correctly and the dizzy hasn't been replaced after work incorrectly the rotor arm should point roughly towards the back cylinder. The corresponding post on the dizzy cap should be for No.1 cylinder. If you have the Rover Workshop manual it tells you how to perform a static timing operation so that you can get the ignition timing set up. once that is done you can fine tune the timing with a strobe light.

The good news is that you have a spark now, so we can assume that you have a healthy ignition system. Oh, remember that for some reason known solely by Rover they chose to number their cylinders from the back of the engine forwards. No.1 is by the bulkhead and No. is nearest to the Radiator.

Cheers,

Steven
 
Nearest the bulkhead is #4 and according to the book is what you set the timing off of which i have .......of course what you are calling #1 is what i'm calling #4 according to the book so that is ok.....timing is ok and on compression stroke....dist wasn't removed so can't be 180 out....still baffled
 
Oh, remember that for some reason known solely by Rover they chose to number their cylinders from the back of the engine forwards. No.1 is by the bulkhead and No. is nearest to the Radiator.
Click to expand...

I don't think Rover ever numbered their cylinders from the rear (but I believe Jaguar did) however they do recommend setting the ignition timing off #4. (which is at the bulkhead end) Something to do with camshaft twist IIRC.
 
Hi Kiwi

Thats it. I obviously had recalled incorrectly. Thanks for the clarification.

Cheers,

Steven
 
well onto the 3rd day now....put old plugs back in.....back fired through the carb and thats about it...... carbs have lots of gas..i have a spark ...i don't get it
 
I'm currently having almost an identical problem with my 2000tc. I've put it into the local garage to see if they know whats happening. So far they've not found out what the problem is. I'll pass on my information if I find anything.
 
OK just to double check........looking from front of car.......THE LT wire to dist and the piggy back clip....first plug wire to right of LT is #3 followed by 4,2 then 1.....so 1 is the first plug lead to the left of the LT...... firing order 1 3 4 2
 
http://www.roverclub.ca/p6electronic.html
Here is a photo of my working 2000 TC (with working Electronic Ignition - another story - another day).
The sequence is 1,3, 4, 2

From the picture you can track what lead went where on a working TC. :D

The workshop manual is a bit of a challenge on the topic but the "Handybooks,...... Owner's handbook..... Rover 2000, 2200 from 1963" is a bit more help when it says on page 63, "When the appropriate timing mark is aligned with the pointer, the engine will be set to the firing position for pistons 1 or 4. Piston No. 1 is at the fan end of the engine and so too is No. 1 sparking plug......."

Eric
 
Your distributor is set up 180 degrees out Eric. You have plug position 4 on the distributor going to cylinder 1. You can set the motor up like this, I do not think that it really matters, just you must be careful to put the leads back on the same if you ever change them.

To determine which way the motor is set up I without blowing holes in the muffler, and without burning exhaust valves, you can take out the plugs, put a compression tester on cylinder 1, the hand turn the motor, until resistance is felt, and the gauge reads compression. Wind until you get to the top of the stroke then see where your distibutor is pointing. The button will either be to the front to the front of the back, and then with the firing order 1 3 4 2, you can then set the other leads into place.

I would check the ignition timing. Backfiring through the carbs suggest that it is too far advanced. Just set it to TDC to start with to get is running. Some Rover 2000's are supposed to be set dynamic to 4 degrees ATDC, to make lean burn emissions control work.

Andre and myself went through this with Nachmanns car last year at RoverAmerica.

The cylinders are numbered from the front.

I will take some photos of my Rover's engine bay this afternoon, so we can compare the difference.

James.
 
Yes James ...you are correct....Eric's is exact opposite to mine...............and yes it would seem to be a timing issue on mine......but i have tried every conceivable position....i 've left the dist loose so i can move it once it starts but i get nothing advanced or retarded......It seems tight too so pulled the valve cover off to see if a spring or something is broke......everything checks out ok ...all clearances are good on the lobes......Of course you can never save the gasket...LOL
 
Since the shop manuals seem useless in this instance i've posted the only pic from an intereurope Repair Manual of the correct plug lead arrangement and mine at moment but it still hasn't started LOL...i've added colour just to make it clearer......the pics are at the Yahoo Rovernet site in the photos section...My Rovers by douluvnascar....for all the site is at
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ Hope this helps somebody else down the road
 
How well is your starter motor cranking over the motor? I got a call from a fellow in Tennessee I think it was about his Rover 2000 TC, which he was having trouble making it start. It would push start fine but would not start with the starter motor. He said he thought the issue was the starter motor was cranking it over too slowly. I had done a pre purchase inspection for him, which included compression testing. I got compressions in the range of 140 to 150 lbs, which is very even, but low for that motor. I asked the seller if he had ever had problems with the starter motor, which he said that he had, and that he had pulled it apart and cleaned the commutator. You compressions are down, but even as well, which can be a symptom of a weak starter motor.

So if you can get hold of a good starter motor then you might want to try that and see if you can crank it faster.Can you swap with another 2000 TC starter motor. I would try to get hold of a Land Rover 2M100 starter motor, from 62- 82. Make sure it is an inertia starter motor though, not a pre-engaged starter motor. Both my Rovers use a 2M100 starter, and it cranks them over noticeable faster, is and a heavier duty starter motor. Make sure that the number of teeth matches on the bendix drive. You could also try taking off the ring over the commutator, of the starter motor which you have, and clean it a bit with a rag soaked in methylated spirits. This might help it crank better.

Is your fuel pump still the mechanical pump. I had an issue with my 2000 TC. The pump would deliver fuel, but only very slowly. My fuel lines needed replacing, and I had to get the fuel tank cleaned and sealed. When you hand prime the pump it should spray a good squirt of fuel, not a little dribble of fuel.

James.
 
Hi James
The starter does crank slower than i would like...i had it rebuilt a couple of years ago......but i boost my battery with wifes car and it cranks fast enough to start for sure....yes i get a good splash of fuel....i'm thinking i did something in the dist to the ground by hooking up the wires wrong...but i'm reaching
 
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