Welding, How much ?

If you've found a tester that will look up through a newly cut hole in the floor and still pass it, you're a very lucky man!

Chop it out, weld new bit in ( I'd go up the arch a bit too, but thats me) THEN go for the test...... And you can join the rest of us with'holy' p 6's !!!! :LOL:

Why take it before you've done it? And won't your heel go through the hole when you're driving?
J
 
Don't think it's that rotten. Seems that someone tried to jack up the car by putting the jack their, that's what caused it to split, although admittedly it does look as if it was on its way anyway. The floor is solid except for that little bit
 
Well all the best of luck mate!!! Get chopping!!!!!!! :twisted:

I've chickened and am taking the car up to Wigan to a rather talented man who can - as I just don't have the time and space!

J
 
My view is that you found a very leaniant M.O.T tester last year Mick and I agree with Rick (webmaster) do the job properly in full before the M.O.T I can't believe that you can turn up at an M.O.T station with half the job done and expect to come out with a pass certificate no matter what you tell the tester its more than thier licence is worth what if an inspector walks in and checks your car as the certificate is being printed I think they would be screwed :shock:
 
What gauge steel is used for the floor ? Is it better in steel or ally ? Finall should the new steel fit into the cut hole or can it sit around the hole. Going to try and put the Mot back till next week. Gives me time to do it properly and only once.
 
dont forget to take off the tag with the hole in before you throw away the rotten bit then you can plug it back on.
 
It has to be steel you cant weld aluminum to steel Mick, 1-2 mm gauge try and use galvanized if poss.
 
v8guy said:
It has to be steel you cant weld aluminum to steel Mick, 1-2 mm gauge try and use galvanized if poss.
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Not to be funny guy but 2mm is too thick and dont use galvanised it wont weld it'll look like chicken shit and the welds wont be strong.
 
Can see this being fun , should I go for a flush finish or make my steel plate slightly bigger than the hole
 
a15htn said:
herts2000 said:
dont forget to take off the tag with the hole in before you throw away the rotten bit then you can plug it back on.
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What is that for?

J
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I think its for something in the factory while the body was either being built or sprayed or just moving along or all 3?
 
nothing to do with skills guy my brother is a welder and i have learnt a few good things from him over the years. The welds just dont take to galvanised steel it spits and makes a mess and certainly wont be strong.
 
herts2000 said:
a15htn said:
herts2000 said:
dont forget to take off the tag with the hole in before you throw away the rotten bit then you can plug it back on.
Click to expand...

What is that for?

J
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I think its for something in the factory while the body was either being built or sprayed or just moving along or all 3?
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Yes would have been used for moving the base unit along the production line and also for tieing down while being transported from factory to dealerships.
 
happy days said:
So 1mm is enough, steel, what about flush finish or overlap ?
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If it was me id try and do it flush but it depends what it looks like when you have taken out the rusted area.
 
I do, only done a very very small bit on the A pillar and a bit on scrap metal, that's what I mean , it's gonna be fun !!!
 
Ah yes that was supposed to be stainless steel not galvanized :oops: my brain and my hand not in co-operation..
Over is easyer than butting.. So how much practise have you had Mick?
 
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