ZF 4HP22

I think you are referring to this.
http://www.disgruntledgoat.com/content/ ... F4HP22.php

the seal to the A clutch can allow pressure to hold the A clutch engaged. Apparently there are Teflon seals to replace the steel ones.
Both boxes I stripped did not show signs of this., time will tell,,,,,,

It's a RPITA to get the bolts through one flex plate ( 50mm hole) through the next flex plate and then into the torque convertor.

Warren,
The existing mounts foul the box and are too far forward to use.
Jim.
 
It is my understanding that the transmission tunnel needs some remodelling carried out in order for the ZF to fit, or alternatively some of the webs need to be ground off.

Ron.
 
Well, grinding the webs sounds like the preferred option.

Jim, I'm preparing myself psychologically.
 
All of said works and conversion will need an extensive photographic record as I am certain that this conversion is a much wanted upgrade by many V8 owners and potentially some benefit to 2.2TC owners as well.

Graeme
 
Absolutely. On paper the ZF should transform the V8's driveability, particularly on the open road. I'll be taking plenty of photos, starting from the moment I drop the 35 out and put it beside the two ZFs.
 
The trans. tunnel needs no work except removal of the old mounts.
The three ribs behind the starter boss foul, so need cutting out.

To do this start with the box upside down, with the bellhousing face vertical and the sump flat. Drill a 1/2 inch hole, close to the root of the ribs, cut out with a cutting disc on an angle grinder and tidy up. surprisingly easy.

Oh yes, you want pictures.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60263021@N ... 265617115/

Jim.
 
harveyp6 said:
DaveHerns said:
I've been reading that these gearboxes are ruined if you give the engine high revs while in N or P .Something to do with an iron sealing ring wearing a groove in a housing.
Click to expand...

AFAIK that's right, the sealing ring (or whatever) fails and that means the clutch is dragging all the time.*

*Disclaimer. I may have dreamt all or any of that.
Click to expand...

Quite right you are Harvey.
As mentioned above, the two iron seals on the input shaft tend to wear a groove on the shaft in which they sit
( on the oil pump/ stator tube ) when this occurs, fluid can be forced past the seals and into the "A" clutch hub
Causing it to pressurise and engage the clutch which in turn burns out the the front clutch hub.
This can also occur due to a worn convertor support bush, so pay close attention to those.
Again as already mentioned above a the iron seals can be replaced with Teflon as an upgrade.
There are a few bits that need to be changed to enable these two boxes to become one and be fitted into the rover, but they are easy enough to overcome.
Very interesting, and good work on the conversion 8)
 
The photos are great too. One look at what you needed to do to the webs behind the starter boss and it was all very clear. Keep 'em coming.
 
All these doodads came in the box with the flex plate, Jim. Are they what I need, or do I have to hunt down something else?

DSC07175_zpsa290f7e3.jpg


P.S. Ring gear is in excellent condition, which I thought might not be the case, coming off a dead Discovery.
 
Are there any other parts other than those shown Warren, all I got with my box was the torque convertor and bell housing.

Graeme
 
Hi, yes, there are a couple of parts missing. there should be an adaptor held to the crankshaft
by 6 Allen bolts and this has 4 tapped holes for the bolts in the pic. The other bit missing is a
4 holed spreader plate that goes with the flex plate. I have tried to find a pic of the sequence
of parts but no joy, I will try again in a while and let you know. in the meantime the order of
parts is-

crankshaft adaptor>ring gear plate>4 hole spacer>small flex plate>spreader plate.

Check the flex plate for any signs of cracking from the bolt holes if so discard!!

Colin
 
Hi, I must have had a brain fart,It has been a while since I worked on my RR.

So after looking at all of the picture :oops: I think the only bit missing is the 6 bolt/4 hole
adaptor that goes on the back of the crankshaft and the correct order of assy is-

Ring gear plate>adaptor>small flex plate>and then the spreader plate (from the far right of the pic)

It should look something like these-

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-rang ... ate-2.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-ro ... plate.html

I think the 4 bolt thing is nothing to do with the Disco.

Sorry about the previous misinformation, and hope this helps.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
So after looking at all of the picture :oops: I think the only bit missing is the 6 bolt/4 hole
adaptor that goes on the back of the crankshaft
Click to expand...

Correct. The crank adapter is usually the only bit missing as it's such a b*tch to get the allen bolts out of the crank. All the other bits on the OP's original pic are used. And if you put the missing crank adapter on the LHS of that pic, and worked from left to right, that would be the order they all fitted to the engine.
 
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