1966 SC - Rebekah!

That's pretty much it. Only problem I can see is that ideally you'd set the bottom chain guide clearance with the sump off, as doing it with it on will make it very difficult to get it correct. Having the sump off would have made fitting the bottom tensioner a lot easier as well. As for the tappets I used to keep a bare block which meant I could set them up on the bench rather than leaning over the wing/front panel all the time. Bad for the back, that...Mind you the block was mighty heavy. In the future I want to get another one but have it cut and then machined down so there's only the top 2" of the block to make it a lot lighter....
 
Thanks Harvey. Yes, take your point about adjusting the bottom damper. And if I'd known how much fun it was going to be fitting that tenioner, I'd have certainly done it before fitting the sump.

All I can say is, whoever designed that access hole must have had really little fingers. And/or a wicked sense of humour. :roll:
 
That's about where I am, Stan! :D

Are you going to get the exhaust valves done for unleaded before you refit the head? I've taken mine to an engineer's but have been told there may be a bit of corrosion in No.4 exhaust port, in which case I'll need a new head :| .
 
Phil Robson said:
That's about where I am, Stan! :D

Are you going to get the exhaust valves done for unleaded before you refit the head? I've taken mine to an engineer's but have been told there may be a bit of corrosion in No.4 exhaust port, in which case I'll need a new head :| .
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Hi Phil,

Think probably not, and rely on Valvemaster. Although if I end up using Rebekah as a daily, I'm sure I'll regret that decision.

Had a quick look at the valves earlier, and a couple of the exhausts are a bit too sloppy in the guides. A bit more investigation needed!
 
Fast-forward a year and a bit...where did that go then? :shock:

The cylinder head gasket that came out when I stripped the engine was a thin (.030") steel one, and yet the engine is a suffix G and has the cast boss on the block which indicates it should have the composite gasket :? - which I have in the gasket set. Comments, anyone?

Now...this is (probably) another egg-on-face moment. When I stripped the engine I put the tappets and their associated shims in clip-seal poly bags. So I was a tad surprised when I opened one up to refit...and found only the thick shim in the bag with its tappet. Hmm....

P1010485.jpg


I know I'm likely to need different shims, but has anyone got a thin shim at, say, .074" I can use to get a fix on a clearance reading for this valve while I'm checking the rest?
 
I just had my shims ground down to get the valve clearances back in line and all my shims where the large thinck single type as shown in your picture.

Fraser
 
vaultsman said:
has anyone got a thin shim at, say, .074" I can use to get a fix on a clearance reading for this valve while I'm checking the rest?
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Put the one you've got on top of the valve stem, and providing it sits proud of the valve cap by any small amount you will be able to get a clearance to work from. If not borrow a shim from another valve just to get a clearance to start with. If neither of those methods work I should have a shim you can use.
 
harveyp6 said:
vaultsman said:
has anyone got a thin shim at, say, .074" I can use to get a fix on a clearance reading for this valve while I'm checking the rest?
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Put the one you've got on top of the valve stem, and providing it sits proud of the valve cap by any small amount you will be able to get a clearance to work from. If not borrow a shim from another valve just to get a clearance to start with. If neither of those methods work I should have a shim you can use.
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That's the problem really, the thick shim sits about flush with the cap. I had a word with Clive Annable last night, and he's going to sort me a thin shim out today.

Hopefully once I've got that I'll get lucky and not need too many others, by swapping around or tickling them up. Not sure how thick the case-hardening is, but I reckon it should be OK to take them down 2 or 3 thou a side if necessary.

Thanks,
 
vaultsman said:
Now...this is (probably) another egg-on-face moment. When I stripped the engine I put the tappets and their associated shims in clip-seal poly bags. So I was a tad surprised when I opened one up to refit...and found only the thick shim in the bag with its tappet. Hmm....
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One of my 2000's valves only had one thick shim Stan, so you probably haven't lost one after all :D
 
Phil Robson said:
One of my 2000's valves only had one thick shim Stan, so you probably haven't lost one after all :D
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Did wonder if that might be the case Phil but when I popped the tappet on with just the thick shim, a straightedge across all 8 tappets showed a big gap on that valve...about the thickness of a thin shim in fact! :)

Must admit, I've lost touch with how your 2000's coming along...getting there I hope? You'll have noticed, of course, how I've deliberately ( :wink: ) been soft-pedalling on Rebekah to leave the field clear for you! :D :D
 
vaultsman said:
Must admit, I've lost touch with how your 2000's coming along...getting there I hope? You'll have noticed, of course, how I've deliberately ( :wink: ) been soft-pedalling on Rebekah to leave the field clear for you! :D :D
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I'm hoping to spray it this summer, otherwise it's the brakes :shock: that are the only major thing left to do. I intend to do a thread on it from the start really, as reference to other forum users, but also to spur me on along the home straight :D . Looking back (despite it being over the last 8 years!) I can't believe how I've managed to get this far..
 
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